Thorfun

sorry. that's not a photo of our setup. we used a sticky fast flash product on ours.

now I just have to remember where I put it. 🤣😭

thanks. but you know what? I'm a real daft (expletive deleted)er sometimes. I'd already started a thread about this very subject and the conclusion was the very same part. and I've already bought one! 🤦‍♂️ I'm so sorry for wasting your time. I knew something seemed familiar about my question and I did search within this thread to see if I'd asked it here as I thought I'd keep ALL my plumbing questions in the one thread. but it seemed I even failed at that. @Pocster is right......again......I am a useless mofo. 😭 that's the problem with having 100 things going on in my head at once, there's not enough room to store everything and things drop out and are forgotten about very quickly. I think I need a break from this self-building malarky. it's doing my head in.

definitely 22mm hep2o. I ran it myself! 🙂 it's outlet "A" - refresh outlet to underground tank - 22mm.

oh. and I bought Aico as well after reading good things and recommendations from on here. my electrician also suggested I use Aico.

I did what my sparky said and my BCO said "it's the electrician who signs it off so it's up to him" so I'm happy with what my electrician has said. only thing BCO said to me was regarding an inner room in the basement that needed a smoke alarm as we hadn't put one there.

but I'm miles behind @Onoff and @Pocster's bathroom threads! it's hard trying to keep up.

hi all. back on a bit of plumbing thinking and was wondering if anyone would know the easiest/best way to connect a 22mm hep2o pipe in to a soil stack? details are that this is the drain down from the RWH header tank if/when the water needs to be replaced to save it becoming 'stale'. there's a 22mm drain off pipe and the MI suggests running a pipe back to the RWH tank but I'm not sure that'll be possible. when I spoke to them about this they said they suggest that to conserve water but if I don't want to do that I can just put it in to a drain. so that's what I want to do. I've got the 22mm hep2o pipe. just need to put it in to a 110mm waste pipe. I presume using a boss adaptor but how to I go from 22mm hep2o to something that will fit in to a boss adaptor?

not sure if anyone has mentioned this but I thought I would just in case.... ...this evening as I was sat at my computer a flood alert came in via email and I was wondering why I didn't get a push notification on my phone and watch. I went to the Shelly app only to get a message as it started that the old app is now deprecated and a new app is to be used. probably why I didn't get any push notifications. I downloaded the new app and tested the flood sensor and notifications popped in to life. I'm not a regular Shelly user and have only the one device so very rarely checked the app. if anyone else is like me and doesn't live by their Shelly app it may be worthwhile double checking it's all working.

🤣 I think so. I'll double check the blocks when I'm next working on them hadn't thought of that but I also presume it'll still be workable.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/hylec-slotted-top-hat-din-rail-35mm-x-7-5mm-x-1000mm/6461G?kpid=6461G&cm_mmc=Google-_-Datafeed-_-Electrical and Lighting?kpid=KINASEKPID&cm_mmc=Google-_-TOKEN1-_-TOKEN2&gad_source=1&gclsrc=ds&gclsrc=ds £3.29! shouldn't break the bank. I might even get 2 for the top and second rails.

it's valid. but after Rob pointed out that the depth wasn't as bad as the physical data stated and looking at the image showing the dimensions of the Wago terminal block I got for the blinds they are actually shallower than the Weidmuller ones at 83.9mm! so switching to Weidmuller won't actually help. 🤦‍♂️ I think a 7.5mm din rail and some magic with lowering sections should see me through ok. what's the worst that can happen? 🤣

ahh....good point and I didn't think of that. will do some calculations. good to know. I might do something like that then and drop part of the second row as well. it'll be the cheapest option for me at the moment I think and then when I come to fit out the basement I'll hopefully have some money again and can revisit this whole subject and purchase a cabinet extension or something else. thanks for the great advice. no doubt I will update this thread when I've found a solution or have more questions. 🤣

something like this? so cut the din rail short where the 24V incoming cables is labelled? leaves room to route solid copper T&E cables to the second row. I could also do something similar at the other end to put the blinds terminal blocks on the second row which will make room for the basement 230V terminal blocks.

do you mean these? https://catalog.weidmueller.com/procat/Product.jsp;jsessionid=0F94826F665AFD18B5F5E5A69B0CDB02?productId=([1267890000])&page=Product it says the depth is 54.5mm and the N/L/PE blocks I have from Wago are only 42.3mm deep and they barely fit on a raised din rail so the 4-way marshalling blocks won't fit without lowering the rail either.

I didn't have much time to play today but I did lower the top rail and the triple deck blocks do definitely fit. the ones for the blinds though are still proud but I think going to a thinner rail will give enough room. also, the double deckers don't really fit with the spacer on the din rail so I would either have to get a thinner rail for the second rail or lower it anyway for the triple decks. is there anything in the regulations to stop me from cutting a din rail and making new holes in the cabinet to make a bespoke double decker rail like in the LXN deep cabinets? that way I can have a raised rail (or no rail at all) at the far left of the top rail to allow the 24V light cables to be routed to the second din rail and can also drop the second rail as far as the Whitewing RGBW dimmer so that dimmer isn't dropped to the lower rail.

ahh....right. gotcha. so, afaik, for my RGBW and CCT strips I need 5 and 3 connections respectively. so to use those L+N+PE blocks I would need 3 per RGBW and 2 per CCT led strip (or 2.5 and 1.5 if I'm splitting a terminal block across 2 different led strips. so even though they would work I would use up more of my precious little space! but I do have the Wago equivalent of those so will see how it all fits and make a decision as to which way to go. I've honestly not looked in to labelling the terminal blocks yet. most of my Wago blocks didn't come with the label holder as they're more expensive, I obviously made a mistake on those blind terminal blocks though as they came with the label holder.

thanks for pointing this out! that'll teach me to just read the product specs rather than look at the diagram. the 81.3mm measurement must include the label holder. I'll just drop the second rail down to the back as well then and be done with it. The Weidmuller ones are only 5mm shallower. @Dan F, out of interest, which triple decks from Weidmuller are you using that are 50mm? might be that for the few I'm using I could get away without dropping that rail if I switch to Weidmuller TBs for the triple height ones

I'm using them for RGBW and CCT LED strips. 2 x TBs for each RGBW and 1 x TB for each CCT strip.

It’s a Future Automation LXN5 https://www.futureautomation.co.uk/Product/Details/LXN

damn. the Weidmuller ones are only 65mm deep whereas the Wago ones are 81.3mm! I think I made the wrong choice going with Wago without having the 'Deep' FA cabinet. 😭

the Weidmuller ones are 88mm deep and the Wago ones are 96.8mm deep. so quite a difference when space is limited! wish I'd noticed that sooner tbh. luckily I only bought 8 of them so not too much of an expense to replace the Wago ones with the Weidmuller ones but I'll see how it goes tomorrow evening after I've lowered the rail. I'm now wondering about the triple deck height terminal blocks and how they compare depth wise with the Weidmuller.

oh! awesome. will get that done tomorrow then. they have the label holder at the top which makes them even taller. I'll lower the rail and remove the label holders and then see where it's at. if I have to move to multiple triple decks instead on the 2nd din rail then so be it.

I have started to put the cabinet together. the astute ones amongst you who have been paying attention will notice that I've reverted back to the 24V being on the left and 230V on the right. I can re-route the cables before entering the cabinet to make this work. it seems that the PSUB is designed for a cabinet to be this way as the mains input is on the right and the 24V outputs on the left. so I'd have to route the 24V cables across the mains input which I didn't like. I now see the issue with the blinds (and potentially the 8-way) terminal blocks. they stick way up! is this what you were talking about @Dan F and @Rob99 when you were talking about having to lower the top DIN rail? if so, how to I lower it? I presume I can't just affix it to the back of the cabinet (it's currently on some spacers which raises it off the back of the cabinet.

thanks. but I haven't any money hence doing it myself. plus I like the challenge and the journey of education and discovery it has led me on. 🙂