Thorfun

i have 2 doors from the garage leading to the house which are FD30 rated and have external door frames. i need to buy some intumescent strips for the chippie to router in. looking at Screwfix i see different options. Fire or fire and smoke. 10mm or 15mm. white or brown. how do i know what i need? obviously white or brown is personal preference but how do i know if i need 10mm or 15mm? and what do i need for BR compliance with regards to fire only or fire and smoke?

so there is benefit in the FC1? or is that just marketing BS?

nice one. thanks. here ends my research in to caulk! 🤣

it says it's paintable whereas i didn't think standard caulk was paintable? i wonder how much that is worth. there are other filling caulks around that are more expensive that FC1 too.

Thank you. I thought that’d be the case but I like to sanity check my ideas sometimes! great to know. Thought I was going to have to move loads of cable out the way to snip them off.

Anyone used FC1? https://www.builderdepot.co.uk/c-tec-fc1-ultimate-all-in-one-filler-caulk-white-310ml https://www.madeinbritain.org/news/ct1-introduces-fc1-the-ultimate-filler-caulk-combination-for-professional-applications-dec-2023

think I know the answer to this one but are there any issues with me cutting off a 'finger' of the cable tray to give more room? one of these things circled in red is what I'm talking about?

If you’ve the time then go for it. We were quoted £1200 for ours and that was 13 supply and 15 extracts. The price was so good I took it and spent the time I would’ve spent on it doing something else!

i like this idea. will run it by SWMBO as she'll be the one doing the oiling!

This was my concern exactly. The time, space and potential drip issue. But if you and @Roundtuit managed it well after hanging then that is definitely something to consider.

Great to know it can be done after hanging. Did you have any issues? Do you think it would’ve been easier before hanging? Would you do it the same if doing it again?

we have oak internal doors (not solid oak coz that'd be crazy money!) and the lovely other half is planning on oiling them with Danish Oil. is it best to do this before they get hung? or can it be done after hanging sufficiently well enough?

we bought from Ultra Leds https://www.ultraleds.co.uk/plaster-in-standard-recessed-plaster-in-led-aluminium-channel-3-metre-length.html

No issue for @Pocster as he won’t even be finished before the 50yr warranty expires.

nice. I've decided to do ferrules at both ends. been going great guns this evening and got quite a bit done. will keep going whenever I have free evenings!

same as @Pocster but didn't foam. our plant room is in the basement so basically everything pretty much goes up!

nice. I do have very extensive schedule documentation so I'm hoping it goes quickly. I can definitely see the benefit of having a second pair of hands to assist. while you're on I have another question for you. in the photo of your cabinet I notice that you use the bootlace ferrules at the Loxone extension end as well as the terminal block end for the tri-rated cable. is there a reason why you don't just put the cable in and screw it down? I understand the need for the ferrules at the terminal block end as it's push-fit so needs to be solid but for screw terminals what's the reasoning behind it?

thanks. I made a start in a spare hour I had this evening. I'm pretty sure I'll get quicker at I go along! it's going to take a while though as I only have a few hours a week I can spare on doing this with all the other stuff I have to do but I will get there.

evening. qq. on the Loxone Relay I'm presuming that there isn't any sort of polarity with the relay outputs and it doesn't matter which way round the live and neutrals are put in? I couldn't see any notation in the data sheet so figure it's just a switch and it doesn't care if it's switching live or neutral.

I bought some of this https://www.toolden.co.uk/sealants-adhesives/adhesives/grab/illbruck-pu700-multi-purpose-construction-adhesive/?gad_source=1 seems pretty solid. used it to stick timber to my screed that has ufh pipes in it as I didn't want to screw into the screed. can't you use fixings though? would be rock solid with mechanical fixings

i'm not sure on the regulations but i believe the balustrade needs to resist a certain force and have certification that it does so. maybe Stairbox won't give that certificate if you don't have the extra newel post? 🤷‍♂️

But if you move the shower further from the soil stack won’t you need to dig more concrete out to get the fall to it from the shower trap?

Thanks for the lovely comments about my thread. I wish I could help you but I do really still not know much! I’d have been lost without the wonderful help from the knowledgeable folk on here. Hopefully someone can help with your questions. I did try reading the building regs on the subject of waste but got quite confused! If you’re smarter than me (wouldn’t be hard!) then maybe you can try and glean some knowledge from them. best of luck!!

that's some interesting maths! 🤣 but i understand the sentiment. that's the chippie's problem. 😉

what's the price difference between a solid core 35mm door and a 44mm FD30 door though? probably not a lot. we got a good deal on FD30 doors, they're bloody heavy and should be a good solid door. we got these XL Joinery doors for £143+VAT from Jewson. the 35mm version were £83+VAT.