Thorfun

sorry but the sump pumps are most definitely essential! if you've read my basement flooding thread you'll know the pain we went through when a pump wasn't working. 😢 the internet is also essential so our flood detectors are able to communicate and alert if required also we've only got 16A max so any heating won't be able to be run (max 3.6kW) and the house is insulated and airtight enough for us to not worry about heat loss too much. food? that's what local takeaways are for.

@Temp fyi https://www.loxone.com/enen/kb/power-supply-backup/

battery backup is 36V. so 3 x 12V in series is the recommended setup.

i have a LuxPower system with 6.4kWh of battery storage with EPS but it's max 16A and only runs 'essentials' like our sump pumps, the MVHR and (eventually) the networking gear. we have a few 13A sockets wired up too which i can run extension leads from if required. so having the Loxone backup battery to run 24V lights is perfect as pretty much every room has an LED strip of some kind and so we can navigate the house in a power cut at night.

had a power cut last night and was without lights. had to run an extension lead from my 230V batteries and plug some table lamps in which wasn't ideal. so while i was waiting for the power to come back on i bought 3 of these https://www.tayna.co.uk/mobility-batteries/yuasa/rec14-12/ should give me 42Ah so we'll see how we get on. we have a scheduled power outage next week so if i can get them installed before then i can do a good test run.

ultimately it comes down to cost (or maybe SE specifications if a specific load bearing is required). i would suggest to start with a target U-value and then work out the most cost effective way of achieving that and then ensure that your structural engineer is ok with what you want.

Don’t forget you only get one claim for your VAT back. It’s not a continuous thing.

I’m on it and use it exactly as a battery tariff! We charge the batteries during the cheap rate and use that power for the rest of the time. Works great for us. What’s even better is also signing up to the 15p/kWh export tariff so we get paid more than it costs us to import. So far in September we’ve run the house and we’re about even. So have run the house for free.

Thanks. Our dishwasher is next to the sink. the light were relatively easy to do but trying to mark the position on the ceiling before the kitchen was in was tricky as we wanted the island central to the lights. Probably took us longer to mark out than to actually fit the channels! They’re plastered in so completely flat to the ceiling.

It can do but we keep is slightly dimmed as we have other lights to compliment it. also I made a mistake and only ran a single cable for the led strip (which is 10m long) and so had to get a lower power strip as the current was too high for the driver in my home automation cabinet. if I’d run a second cable I could’ve used a higher power led strip which would’ve given off more light. Hope that makes sense.

Yes, 2 extracts. I’m not sure why they designed it that way sorry.

here’s our kitchen. Contrary to the suggestions above we put the sink on the island and the induction against the wall. Works well for us! we also love the ceiling led strip which replaces the need for down lights.

don't be! that's the whole point of a forum and any post that creates good discussion is a benefit to all. 🙂

i didn't bother with this. a real faff and extra cost that i didn't think was completely necessary! hardly any water will get through the cladding and whatever does should soon dry off. ymmv.

thanks. have you considered the cost implications of using 50mm x 75mm battens? we used 50x50mm and they were a lot more expensive than standard 25x50mm. I wonder if working a nice detail between the bottom of the cladding and the block might look nice and save quite a bit of money to boot! just a thought.

One more thing. The lounge looks like it has corner opening sliders. If so then they’re really expensive and hard to get good airtightness. We had them planned but after shopping around we put in a corner post and did away with the corner opening. Saved a lot of money!

our battery inverter (LuxPower) has a 16A limit on the emergency power so we have a second garage-type CU next to the main CU for essential loads (like our sump pump in the basement!) and a couple of extra plug sockets that we can run an extension lead to in a long power cut. 16A = 3.68kW @ 230V so that's quite a hefty load. eventually our Loxone system and the 24V lighting it controls will run from seperate lead acid batteries in a power cut so we can run 24V lights also that will be separate from the 230V battery system. should be enough to get us through a reasonable power cut

not sure you can consider it a snug if it's open planned! in my mind a snug is a cozy enclosed space. 😉 lovely living room....where's the TV going?

where's the TV going? (please don't say above the fireplace!)

Nope. UK Power Networks. South East England.

I uploaded the required drawings and my application is now complete. I used the Smart Connect portal and I received the 'your application is complete' email pretty soon after. so they either have some form of AI or image recognition software to check the drawings or they don't care. either way, I'm happy. 🙂

we have a 3-phase supply but are only running the house off a single phase. hence the single phase smart meter. so, yeah, basically future expansion if needed. isn't that excessive though? if they're working on the lines then switching off via the 3-phase lockable rotary isolator would suffice, no? i can easily update the drawing to say it's lockable though, although that is not true. i did have arrows and stuff but figured everything is 2-way flow anyway so why bother! i also found some other SLDs on a Victron forum and they didn't have flow direction so i didn't bother. i can add the 3 x 100A DNO fuses. not sure what you mean by 'principle flow from left to right' though. whoops! don't let @SteamyTea know i got the units wrong. i'll never live it down. Updating now. the batteries are expandable. i can only afford 6.4kWh of storage at the moment. but can easily add extra 3.2kWh units to increase the capacity as and when funds allow. it's not a huge amount of storage but it reduces our night time usage a bit.

i've created a whole new single line diagram which i think is now much better. any comments before i submit to DNO?

ok. update on this. my application was approved! now I need to supply commissioning documentation. they've asked for this: I'm ok with the 'As built Single line diagram/circuit diagram' as I already have this diagram which I think is what they're after (please correct me if I'm wrong!) Site layout and site location plans are fine as I can send the architects site plans with the head marked on them. my query is around does the above diagram show all the required protection settings that are needed for a G99 commissioning docs? I'm really hoping that I can simply send the above image and the site layout and location plans and be done with it! but I don't want to send in incorrect plans. can anyone who's been through this please assist with what's required here or if the above is all that's needed?

what if you heras fenced off the 2 cars so they weren't actually part of the building site but were still on your land? potential loop hole?