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Thorfun

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Everything posted by Thorfun

  1. this was my understanding too. are you sure he's not thinking of liquid screeds?
  2. i'd say that was a pretty unanimous response! 🤣
  3. ps. have a read of this thread as the OP was also told couldn't have an insulated raft due to ground conditions but their SE made it possible.
  4. can't you just use normal block and beam and put loads of insulation on top? 🤷‍♂️
  5. ps. here's our blog post on the basement ufh if it helps
  6. we didn't put UFH pipes in our slab in the basement and i ended up putting between 25mm PIR on top of the slab and then fitting pipes to that and putting a 50mm liquid screed over the top. seems to work in our house. on the ground floor we have block and beam over the basement and insulated slab (EPS below the slab) on the 'arms' and put 50mm - 100mm EPS on top and then a liquid screed on top of that. house is lovely and warm so it can be done. as you're going PH i don't think you've anything to worry about in having the UFH pipes on top of the slab with a screed on top (if you ever need to turn it on that is!). just make sure you allow for it in your design so that your FFL is correct!
  7. And I’ll have the external blinds automated by then too so as to reduce the impact of the solar gain.
  8. i also didn't put any central heating upstairs and i was worried as i'd never lived in a house where that was even possible! but fearing overheating we did put in AC so that could be used for heating if required. i doubt it ever will be. yesterday we were working in the house and the sun was coming through the windows and we had to actually turn the AC on to cool the rooms and it's only April. granted we were plumbing so it might've been ok for just sitting around in but i am now convinced that cooling is more important upstairs than heating in our house.
  9. put the new Loxone relay extension in and connected up the blinds to it and they just work. it was a good experiment trying the SSRs and I still have them if I want to use cheap relays for something else (maybe the wet UFH control when I get that set up?). cabinet is almost ready to put the covers on as there's not many more lighting circuits I can connect up at the moment. making a final push for BCO sign off in the next couple of months so need to make it all safe and get the electrics signed off.
  10. I asked my BCO this very question this week. He said about 14 days from final inspection if all the paperwork was in order
  11. Like anyone would admit that!
  12. Afaik you can use whatever you want to use! I used the one you posted as I terminated every T&E on the side with 3 levels as the earths all commoned on the din rail. @Rob99 uses double decker TB for L & N and terminates the earths on a connection bar. Horses for courses from my perspective. my sparks was happy with the way I’d done it. there are only 2 levels on the “internal” side as there’s no earth from the relays so it’s just the switched live and commoned neutral from the RCBO
  13. Doesn’t split in to type of primary fire though. But on the positive side the number of domestic primary fires have decreased by 20% over the last 10 years while we can presume the number of batteries installed has increased over that period.
  14. this would indeed be very interesting to know
  15. i have mains battery backup too. currently 6.4kWh capacity but it is easily expandable by simply adding another battery or two (or three, or four)
  16. Loxone miniserver and extensions are minimal so i'm not even going to factor those in. for the PSUB you need 3 x 12V batteries as it's a 36V battery backup system. so it's all or nothing on that front. i'm sure i can reduce the power draw for each LED strip in certain circumstances within Loxone config but i haven't got that far in to my learnings yet. maybe i do simply start with a low cost 45Ah setup and can then reasses if/when i ever need to! i'm in no rush for the batteries as we're not even living there yet but i like to start my research early so i can forget what i've researched a few months down the line when i'm ready to purchase so i have to research it all over again. 🤦‍♂️ so plenty of time to fit the LEDs and see how they perform dimmed at night. i can then measure the power draw through Loxone as the PSUB should give those readings.
  17. yeah. it is the wise thing. it's interesting that no one on here that has the power supply and backup is utilising the backup facility! although i know @joth has one but he's living it up and is slow to respond at the moment.
  18. yes of course. but we'd like to illuminate 'luxuriously' during a power cut rather than just bare minimum. 😉 i have a Whitewing DMX 24V dimmer that controls the 24V lighting. we don't have power cuts often (although we had one just last week for about 3hrs) but often enough that i want to plan for them. i also need to plan for the zombie apocalypse when it finally hits.
  19. Very good point well made. 👍
  20. +1 but i would say that goes for any build method. our TF company built us a great structure and then went bust a year later and some on here also lost money. so you can never be 100% certain of a company. there have been a few threads about this on here and i'm sure quick search will yield some results.
  21. that would definitely work and is a great idea but with the one slight snag that i haven't fitted any of those LED strips yet! 😉 i was hoping to start fitting those this weekend if i get time after doing some plumbing work. but it is a great idea and i can put off buying these batteries until after i have that data.
  22. That is definitely the sensible thing to do. I was just thinking of a worse case scenario and planning for it. But maybe 45Ah will be enough for emergency battery backup for the 24V lights. It’s definitely a cheaper option to try to start with! Although even with only 1/3 of the lights running that’s only 6hrs illumination. Enough to get us to bedtime in the winter though I guess.
  23. here's my spreadsheet of all my 24V LEDs/LED Strips. the last column is the current each will draw at full power and the total in bold on each output of the PSUB.
  24. it was set to 70s and I didn't change that value when I did the test with the Loxone relay so I don't think it was that. tbh, I'm not sure what it is but I've decided to ditch the SSRs and move to a Loxone relay. it just worked and I'm ok with having an easy life where things just work. sorry to give up on them but you win some and you lose some. I'll put it on the credit card and figure out how to pay for it in a month or two. 😆 fair enough! enjoy. 🙂
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