Thorfun

Thanks. Our dishwasher is next to the sink. the light were relatively easy to do but trying to mark the position on the ceiling before the kitchen was in was tricky as we wanted the island central to the lights. Probably took us longer to mark out than to actually fit the channels! They’re plastered in so completely flat to the ceiling.

It can do but we keep is slightly dimmed as we have other lights to compliment it. also I made a mistake and only ran a single cable for the led strip (which is 10m long) and so had to get a lower power strip as the current was too high for the driver in my home automation cabinet. if I’d run a second cable I could’ve used a higher power led strip which would’ve given off more light. Hope that makes sense.

Yes, 2 extracts. I’m not sure why they designed it that way sorry.

here’s our kitchen. Contrary to the suggestions above we put the sink on the island and the induction against the wall. Works well for us! we also love the ceiling led strip which replaces the need for down lights.

don't be! that's the whole point of a forum and any post that creates good discussion is a benefit to all. 🙂

i didn't bother with this. a real faff and extra cost that i didn't think was completely necessary! hardly any water will get through the cladding and whatever does should soon dry off. ymmv.

thanks. have you considered the cost implications of using 50mm x 75mm battens? we used 50x50mm and they were a lot more expensive than standard 25x50mm. I wonder if working a nice detail between the bottom of the cladding and the block might look nice and save quite a bit of money to boot! just a thought.

One more thing. The lounge looks like it has corner opening sliders. If so then they’re really expensive and hard to get good airtightness. We had them planned but after shopping around we put in a corner post and did away with the corner opening. Saved a lot of money!

our battery inverter (LuxPower) has a 16A limit on the emergency power so we have a second garage-type CU next to the main CU for essential loads (like our sump pump in the basement!) and a couple of extra plug sockets that we can run an extension lead to in a long power cut. 16A = 3.68kW @ 230V so that's quite a hefty load. eventually our Loxone system and the 24V lighting it controls will run from seperate lead acid batteries in a power cut so we can run 24V lights also that will be separate from the 230V battery system. should be enough to get us through a reasonable power cut

not sure you can consider it a snug if it's open planned! in my mind a snug is a cozy enclosed space. 😉 lovely living room....where's the TV going?

where's the TV going? (please don't say above the fireplace!)

Nope. UK Power Networks. South East England.

I uploaded the required drawings and my application is now complete. I used the Smart Connect portal and I received the 'your application is complete' email pretty soon after. so they either have some form of AI or image recognition software to check the drawings or they don't care. either way, I'm happy. 🙂

we have a 3-phase supply but are only running the house off a single phase. hence the single phase smart meter. so, yeah, basically future expansion if needed. isn't that excessive though? if they're working on the lines then switching off via the 3-phase lockable rotary isolator would suffice, no? i can easily update the drawing to say it's lockable though, although that is not true. i did have arrows and stuff but figured everything is 2-way flow anyway so why bother! i also found some other SLDs on a Victron forum and they didn't have flow direction so i didn't bother. i can add the 3 x 100A DNO fuses. not sure what you mean by 'principle flow from left to right' though. whoops! don't let @SteamyTea know i got the units wrong. i'll never live it down. Updating now. the batteries are expandable. i can only afford 6.4kWh of storage at the moment. but can easily add extra 3.2kWh units to increase the capacity as and when funds allow. it's not a huge amount of storage but it reduces our night time usage a bit.

i've created a whole new single line diagram which i think is now much better. any comments before i submit to DNO?

ok. update on this. my application was approved! now I need to supply commissioning documentation. they've asked for this: I'm ok with the 'As built Single line diagram/circuit diagram' as I already have this diagram which I think is what they're after (please correct me if I'm wrong!) Site layout and site location plans are fine as I can send the architects site plans with the head marked on them. my query is around does the above diagram show all the required protection settings that are needed for a G99 commissioning docs? I'm really hoping that I can simply send the above image and the site layout and location plans and be done with it! but I don't want to send in incorrect plans. can anyone who's been through this please assist with what's required here or if the above is all that's needed?

what if you heras fenced off the 2 cars so they weren't actually part of the building site but were still on your land? potential loop hole?

Surely it’s your property and you can keep what you like on it, no?

Do you need 300mm of PIR above the slab? Seems excessive. Most folk (us included) were happy with 300mm EPS for our insulated slabs. Could save quite a bit of money.

I didn’t think a French drain in to a rainwater harvester was a good idea. Too easy for contaminants from the patio to end up in there.

our RIBA architect wasn't percentage based so shop around. we paid under £10k for everything up to and including building control. any assistance after that point we paid an hourly fee. worked out great for us

the inverter is password protected and I am the installer. my inverter broke and Solaredge sent me a new one which I replaced and configured on my own. so I think that officially makes me a solar pv installer. at least it's now on my CV. 🤣

yeah, I think I'd rather stick with Solaredge for complete compatibility!

oh right! found this https://knowledge-center.solaredge.com/sites/kc/files/feed-in_limitation_application_note.pdf. think I get it now. the Solaredge Energy meter sends the import/export data to the inverter and within the actual inverter itself you set the export limit and so if export exceeds that limit then the inverter reduces the output from the inverter to ensure it remains under the export limit. seems pretty straight forward now I've done some research!

thanks. I have been doing some research today and came across this Solaredge Energy meter https://www.solaredge.com/en/products/metering-and-sensors/energy-meter-with-modbus-connection which talks to the inverter but I don't see how it actually limits the export or knows what the export limit is!