Thorfun

I had a liquid screed in the basement on top of our insulated slab and decided it was actually cheaper to lay 25mm PIR and staple the UFH pipes to that rather than pay for a deeper screed and a.n.other form of fixing the UFH pipes down.

I think I know the answer to this one and logic tells me I'm right but do I cut out the coursing blocks between the internal doorways/openings where the sole plate was cut out? I'm going to have to run UFH pipes so I'll need to cut holes for them and also lay insulation for the UFH pipes to staple to and then get a liquid screed in. so my head and logic is saying to cut those blocks out. just thought I'd check with the collective before I do something stupid.

well....no one shouted that this was a bad idea so I've gone and done it. water flows and falls through the new pipes nicely. another job ticked off the list!

interest to know why you used egg crate rather than staples in the first place if it's on PIR? they're a lot cheaper and not hard to fit. myself and my wife did ours in the basement and was actually quite enjoyable! 🙂

our liquid screeder said the egg crate type system for ufh pipes is notorious for pipes lifting up. I would suggest that those pipes will be lifted up with the screed and would need to be held down somehow.

this is an interesting thread for me as I'll be thinking about this soon. Our Zehnder MVHR has an automatic boost when it detects an increase in humidity so having the controller near the bathrooms doesn't make sense for us. I guess every situation is different and I'm leaning towards near the kitchen for boosting when cooking.

good luck! sounds like a project and a half. although I have to agree with @Iceverge and seriously consider knock down and rebuild. even as self-employed you should be able to get a selfbuild mortgage. People on here have had success with Ecology. worth investigating I'd say. then at least if they say no you know for sure!

yeah. looked at it, loved it, then discounted it due to cost! the zinc we're going for is expensive enough for us. 😉

yeah, that's what I've heard. especially with the deep metal guttering I'm looking at. I've read some manufacturers for this guttering are suggesting a 1:600 fall so that's 3mm over 1m which is nothing really.

yeah. cheers. we're looking at 125mm wide gutters with a deep profile. the timber cladding that the gutters will be fixed to are about 70mm from the edge of the slates: so I'm currently chatting with the guttering supplier to ensure that the fascia brackets allow the guttering to protrude sufficiently to do as you say.

in our research for windows we found that triple glazing was around 15% more expensive than double so if their prices are 50% more then I would suggest shopping around. sounds like they're taking those wanting triple glazing for a ride.

thanks. it did indeed seem logical to me but sometimes it's best to ask before jumping in! 🙂

next question on guttering......the fall.... I have a roof with downpipes at either end. do I lay to fall from the middle of the roof so the water runs evenly to each end or do you start at one end and run to fall to the other end. e.g. or

I'm using Protek for our warranty and haven't had any issues at all with the BCO appointed by JHAI who Protek subcontract to. She's very nice and supportive, is open to discussions about possibilities and options and attends within a couple of days of asking if required. sorry to hear that so many have issues with Buildzone.

see....I said more knowledgable folk would be along soon.

if it's the same price then it seems logical to get triple glazing! there might be some considerations that other more knowledgable folk will be able to tell you about though but if the window supplier says it's fine to put in triple glazing and they're willing to warranty it then I'd say go for it!

welcome. don't be afraid to start your own introduction thread where you can give details about your project. 🙂

slight change of plan here. I now would like to widen the gap between my 2 outlets on the roof. so I have bought 4 x 90° offset bends and some 68mm pipe and am planning on doing the following: so a 90° bend in to the existing pipe then a length of 68mm pipe to the side at a suitable fall and then another 90° bend at the end to bring it out through the cladding. anyone see any issues with this? will be connecting the offset bends with CT1. I assume a bead of CT1 around the pipe and slide it in? or is there a better way of doing it? Also, what sort of fall should I be looking at?

thanks. I think I have a lot more reading to do before I can fully get my head around all of this. I'm thinking that maybe I should just pay the lighting designer to do it and get her to talk to the electrician! it's not like I haven't got a lot of other things to do.

qq....do the drivers sit in the ceiling void with the light fittings or are they centralised in the Loxone cabinet

our mains water pipe runs at about 450mm for a short distance and I was asked by Southern Water to insulate the 32mm pipe. I ended up using this https://www.bes.co.uk/shalloduct-water-service-pipe-insulation-835-x-25mm-18496/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw0umSBhDrARIsAH7FCofPjZE97Kx-4mMkVt_XlLonwlnjcnnNwOdcUPzvCi3Hia-Kj6K4GNcaAsfpEALw_wcB inside a blue ducting pipe https://www.bes.co.uk/shalloduct-rigiduct-insulation-pipe-blue-4-x-3m-18515/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw0umSBhDrARIsAH7FCofHqPbJ8g0a1CYXl9oau7cmHLaitE7Z2nweE57W5fsHLg6M2PsHocwaAlcKEALw_wcB which they were happy with.

thanks for the link. I'll add it to my bookmarks. we said we didn't want this done as we don't really have the money but it's always an option when we get nearer the time to get her to do it for us. we'll see how the budget goes. thanks. it's beginning to make sense.

they've got one in stock in Brighton. might be worth a trip to see if it'll work. but I'll try my local plumbers merchants first to see if they've got anything suitable.

welcome. another first time self-builder here. our build is watertight stage and I have learnt so much on our journey so far from being hands on and also from this wonderful forum. you can and should spend hours reading the forums and enjoy your journey down the rabbit hole!

don't know how much the Thermalite blocks are but would've thought a lot more than solid concrete blocks. so save the money and use solid concrete and put the money towards more insulation on the floor.