Auchlossen

What are the constraints re proximity of SVP vent near boundary? I would prefer to put vent near apex of side wall, which is about 600mm from boundary. To avoid taking a pipe thru the roof. BCO is not supportive. Alternatively I could take SVP thru side wall by boundary, and take pipe up above roof. The approved plans show SVP stack emerging thru roof at 800 from boundary, which is not much further away. Are there any relevant regulations or conventions? In bonnie scotland.

Thanks all. The roof pitch is shallow, about 25deg, with IKO slates. I guess this means that capillary regress of water up the underside of the slate is the more likely, but also that water will shoot down the slope more slowly than on a 45deg roof. Thanks for the link to the RIBA/CUPA Slate guidance, which affirms the 50mm overhang for the slates. I will discuss this with contractor tomorrow.

I am using scottish larch to provide a fascia, verge with alu box gutter attached, on a small building [garage/studio] of 6x6m2 The contractor has used a 3" 75mm box gutter, right on the face of the fascia, which in turn is on the face of the wall, and is resisting changing it. He says it is quite adequate for a small roof. My slater says it is not good enough: slates must overhang 2" 50mm to avoid capillary creep underneath slates must have 2" 50mm beyond to gutter outside edge to avoid water overshooting Stones posted on another topic: I will welcome advice from the community.

Is an [electric shower + small Instant water heater] a better way to go than a single larger instant water heater that will service all 3 outlets? eg Stiebel Eltron DNM3 3.5kW for £125 ex VAT + e-shower vs. Stiebel Eltron DHC-E12 12kW for £180 ex vat + thermo shower fitting Better = cost efficient, energy efficient, plumbing efficient.

Thanks again for further advice Nick. Been a busy week or two: kit arrived from Poland on 3 lorries, fully insulated and ducted for wiring, smaller windows [Rationel] fitted, partly plasterboarded, together with various other bits like mega roof window [Fakro], timber and ply. Up and running in 3 days. No rads, no thermal store, just [poss] buffer to drive UFH. I re-read the Mill Orchard blog: JSH seems to have sourced his Buffer from Newark. Gas boiler is Combi: I am looking at Vaillant EcotecPro24 as possible gas boiler. Geminox seems to have good reviews and very low modulation <1kW. Vokera Linea1 or Vision25 have also been suggested. Which? recommended WorcesterBosch Greenstar.

I am about to order an Airflow Adroit DV96 EPH from BPC for a 96m2 well insulated house. It seems to tick most of the boxes at a fair price.

Fine video, good intro to Sunamp.

I am just testing some led Flat Panel lights as discussed above, bought from led.me and in soft white 3W and 6W. I am most impressed with the quality and output of the lights. The wee plastic box housing the transformer unit is as shown by Stones above. I laughed when I realized that the screw heads on the box were not screws at all but simply plastic impressions thereof. Inside the box is a wee printed circuit board: the issue I am really concerned about is that the input wires are too small to be pinched and held securely by the casing, so the input wires depend on the flimsy soldered connection of two small wires that connect to the PC board, which is floating about freely in the box. Great care would need to be used on installation, if that is not too big an ask on a building site. On the plus side, I think the 6W version gives out excellent light, both colour and quantity with a good spread, and I plan to use 4 or 6 of them in a room.

Thanks Nick and other comments above. Lots of good advice here as I had anticipated. Confusion caused by my use of incorrect terminology, I am actually wanting to use/source a buffer store, following the lead of JSH, for driving the UFH. Not sure if it is worth putting in heated towel rails at all, or maybe just electric? If house maintains at 23deg, then they will likely dry very quickly. Certainly I take the point that runnning them off the UFH is not very useful, since it will be at same temp as the air to which the towels will have adjusted I am intending to use the mix-in-circuit mentioned by Terry: I think this is a recognized approach.

Thanks ProDave. The blogsite is hosted by Google. I have edited my post. Hope you can see the pix cos it is more pix than text.

Here's a link to my blog: http://auchlossen.blogspot.co.uk/ https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=9032408626306264390#allposts or just google 'Auchlossen + blogspot' Timber Frame Kit from Poland currently in progress: first lorry arrived tuesday and erected, second kit lorry delayed so arriving thursday now, also third kit lorry and a load of timber from local forestry However strong winds forecast, so crane may not be viable if >20mph?

And I found this report on the advantages of modulation: http://www.raypak.com/support/tech_corner/modulation a bit heavy techie for me... The extent of modulation appears to vary considerably between boilers, with Atag and Vokera and Geminox on the hi-modulation end of the scale.

Thanks Nick, I will take this up again. Please will you advise on thermal buffer store: source, since most seem to be larger and designed with multiple coils and immersion heaters [eg Advance Appliances,Mibec] should this be in SSteel? Is my plan for plumbing it in broadly correct, with input from boiler into the body of the tank and output to UFH from coil? controls? valves? pumps?

ah so what is the collected wisdom on the best brand of RS gas boiler?

Following discussion with plumbers, I think the buffer tank may not be necessary. Modern gas boilers, they say, can modulate down and have anti-cycling controls. WorcesterBosch Greenstar 28CDi Combi is recommended. This will modulate down to 7kW and should deliver 10-11l/min to shower. Heated towel rails are now out of the frame, and should not be necessary in UFH house. Radial plumbing with 10mm Hep2O pipes is still the objective, with manifolds close to the boiler, and some shared pipes as suggested [shower/bath in 15mm; sink/dishwasher]. This is still a bit of a challenge to Rod&Billie!

Just to update, I am now going to use the Airflow DV96 Adroit max 320m3/hr, with radial ducting and dual pipes to kitchen extract and possibly lounge supply. I struggled to draw any very useful comparison between several rival models, and this seems a good model. I shall use cheap metal supply valves, since the PVC ones that I used 10 years ago looked rather like PVC

On the tin, it says it is a Matki waste outlet. It is the sort of quality piece of kit that every home cleaner [that's me too] would thank you for.

Ahaha... at the risk of subverting the thread, herein lies an important issue: what is the best trap? In my temporary abode, I have Roman shower with conical filter set at the front of the shower. Excellent easily removed and almost self emptying conical filter that seems to let the water through pretty effectively. Does anyone recognize this item and can identify it?

I plan to buy 12 panels of Perlight PV as a complete kit, with in-roof mounting, to give 3kW aka 3.5kW for DIY install. I intend to install the in-roof mounting before slating with IKO plastic/rubber slates for low pitch roof; and then fit the panels after slating and before builders remove scaffold. The panels are going on the garage/studio roof, about 12m cable run from house duct entry. Are these panels ok and good vfm? £2871 + £115carr + vat. What cabling should I envisage from panels? Should I locate kit within garage and then run cable to house? I guess these questions will be answered when I get the instruction book with the kit, but I like to know before. Thanks in advance for your help.

Just trying to sort out garage door. I am looking for Sectional door, ie upward sliding sections, motorised, for opening 4.5m x 2140, mid-rib style in RAL3011. I think it is useful to have a 'woodgrain' or otherwise rippled surface, to show less marks. I am trying to get prices for doors by: Hormann Novoferm Ryterna Seceuroglide Is there any difference in quality between these products? Any experience on price? Do local supply/fix firms give better fix with better discount?

Telecon with couthy garage door installer tonight mentioned a point that I had not been aware of: there should be a 'check' in the floor at the point where the door falls. Presumably to keep water out. And it might have helped to resolve my neighbour's problem, which is that the snow on the vehicle melts in the relatively warm garage, flows out under the door, where it freezes the rubber foot of the roller door to the floor, with negative consequences for both user and rubber foot. They resolved by putting a piece of wood across the floor under the door when weather requires!

FYI here is a 2015 image of [very] rough sawn untreated Scottish larch in 3 generations: gable end erected in 2005 logstore erected in 2008 patio pergola erected in 2015 The timber has blended into a uniform pattern. It has lasted well, and none has required replacing after more than ten years. If I were repeating that particular approach of using local larch, I would probably choose a finer cut, rather than using my late neighbour's sawmill, since the very rough surface tends to hold the rain, with a presumed impact on endurance. My view in 2005 was that the cladding had a life expectancy of 20+ years, and I have no reason to doubt that today.

Bump. Given the interest over on ebuild, I am surprised none shown her as yet, but would be pleased to see comments. I had an accidental meeting today with an advisor from Home Energy Scotland, who was doing a home visit to a friend whom I was visiting at the time. So I have arranged a review of my heating/HW plans which will be useful. I see that I have included in schema neither the Dishwasher nor the washing machine, which will be branched off the sinks in K and U respectively, and should prob be in 15mm.

Thanks for advice. I will put in lots of data lines to relevant corners of relevant rooms, a duct for twin coax to a putative dish JIC, and multicore to controllers/detectors. maybe coax to other rooms for aerial signal - after checking what reception is like on site.

I have used vertical dowel in the centre, let into the surface top and bottom with a shallow drilled hole top and bottom. If required to support books, then put two dowels in front and back. Very simple solution. ALternative is to glue/nail a strip of timber on the front of each shelf. Since you have a back to the cupboard, it might be possible to put a 'peg' in the centre of the back to support each shelf.