Onoff

I was going to start a petition to try and make it site policy that anyone mentioning YOUR name had to follow it with "hallowed be his name"!

It is I believe a woman's prerogative to change her mind..... Madam has just said: "I don't mind a combined filler/overflow then we could do away with the taps and have chrome blanks.....it's YOU who didn't want that!" So.....two 1.5" dia (nom 37mm) holes to fill. How about a couple of subtle lights? (Possibly!)

This was an earlier section but what hasn't changed is the ledge width around the bath, only 100mm. Limited on that width because of room size, doorway etc. The beer/wine will fit so that's the main thing. PM me your email address and I'll link you to my Flickr album where you can look through all my pics that were over on eBuild. That is if you have trouble sleeping.....

No, same make, both pictures are Bristan Quest. I just don't like those bits of 1/4" rod sticking out of the deck mount valves preferring the "softer" rounded flat plate one above on the "normal" taps. I've emailed Bristan on it. Either that or the Tre Mercati ones in the link that look at least similar.

I'm doing my wet room corner in Knauf Aquapanel board and possibly around the bath. The rest of the bathroom in green plasterboard. Where's the Welsh Wizard when you need him?

You sure it's not the SAME woman! This is what I was given:

I used something like this for the valve, affixed to a noggin in the stud wall behind: http://www.bathroomsandshowersdirect.co.uk/grohe---shower-valves/grohtherm/grohe-18153-grohtherm-fixing-bracket-chrome?gclid=CIXml5SO2M0CFewW0wodCzoK-w

Are Tre Mercati any good as a brand? Seen these elsewhere for over twice the price: https://www.bradfordbathroomcompany.com/bathroom-taps/tre-mercati/novara-taps/tre-mercati-65000-novara-side-valves?gclid=CPnnhNCI2M0CFagy0wodyVkEOA&zenid=46fb0bdb0e437cfb6e75e7dfaa065704 And.....we have these, bought to go in the bath: Would it be possible to say buy the same make (Quest / Bristan) deck mount valves like this: .....and swap the levers over?

Just need some magnets now! I've worked it so the 400w tile over hangs the removable panel by 10mm either side. That should place the "cuttable" joint between tiles on the plywood: And sorted the pipe scallops:

What idiot.....was 45mm out when he measured for the "scallops" to miss the pipes? Luckily they're not yet glued and "he" has some spares: And the short end:

Personally I don't think it's as "dense". Maybe made down to a price? Like some of their "excusive to S'fix" drills that you can't get anywhere else with plastic gears / chuck etc.

I only use Soudafoam Low Expansion and their All Seasons Flexifoam. The low expansion one is great for sticking EPS to concrete btw (thanks Jeremy I think for that). Guns.....on about number 4 I think varying from S'fix and T'station. The very first one I ever had I messed up by NOT leaving the cleaner in it for the required period when I cleaned it and put it away. I just took the can off and gave it a quick blast through. The other dead ones...wear I guess. I've had them apart but the black Teflon coating as said wears and they leak out of the rear end.

Done a wee bit more today: EDIT: Like a pillock I cut the mitre on the 18mm ply too far back so it doesn't overhang the 12mm sides. Easy fix though to glue and pin a bit o The corner infill was a biatch.....second attempt: Mulling over turning the bath around so the taps are outward. It would mean the motor & pump is accessible from the end & the taps from the long side. Would ditch the taps for a waste filler type set up. I would have to cut a channel for the motor support bracket in the slab the other end though. Sure there might have been another reason why I didn't want to turn the bath around but for the life of me can't think of it! EDIT: Remembered! We were concerned that by spinning the bath 180deg and even having "low profile" taps and a combined waste / filler, then the "hump / projection" where the taps sit would be awkward to get across when getting in.

Wot I said! Taught well me you have...

One in the long side to access the trap. One in the end to have some chance of getting to the flexibles to the taps. My missus wasn't convinced by the taper until she physically stood next to it.

My wooden frame will be covered in 12mm marine ply. The removable tiles will be siliconed in rather than grouted. Tbh I'll probably come up with something myself to suit the tile size. Thinking: - Ply the sides. Screwed and glued to the timber frame. - Neatly cut the access hatch in the ply the same size as a tile - Make frame for the removed piece to sit against - Fit magnets - Stick tile to ply - Put access panel in place - Silicon around joint This might have been the link Nick posted: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Manthorpe-Tile-Access-Panel-GLTAP-500-DIY-Installation-Free-Delivery-/191895032192?hash=item2cadd5d180:g:AUQAAOSwqBJXXbn~

First off.....I bet you'll finish yours before I do! Second, does your wife know mine or in fact are they one and the same? I too have a similar picture of "what she wants". Seriously: I have recessed a pocket in the floor so as the floor off the bath and adjacent room floor are the same level. I'm tapering the sides so when you stand next to it you're "closer" with your feet sort of under the overhang. My taper is 7deg. The concept when you stand adjacent just feels right. The "shoe" design, in two halves is because the spa pipes are the same width as the bath, this sort of shows it. So I couldn't "drop" the bath into a hole in the box. I'm having to fit one half of the box, slide the bath in from the side then complete the other half. Removable tile will be held in by magnets or some other magic, Hogwart's esque device!. Nick posted up a while back on eBuild some removable, tile-able panels. I'll try and find the link. Ref the bath top mine will sit atop the tiles though I did toy with having it all flush. Tbh I reckon that's a recipe for disaster. I'm going to put a marine ply "lip" around the "hole" in my box that'll be pinned & Gorilla glued to the main ply deck . The bath will sit over that. Got to go an eat now, had an APPLE at 5am so thinking more of kebab & beer than bathrooms. Nick will be along shortly.....

Just used Pipestock for the first time so thanks to Jeremy for that!

I used a soft BROOM to do mine it was such a big area.

Tbh if a new garage I'd think about getting some proper floor paint down BEFORE any oil spills etc. I was lucky with my double garage as in it had never been "worked" in but just used for storage. It was though hellishly dusty. I wired brushed the whole floor then vacuumed it. Primed from memory with WATERPROOF PVA thinned 5:1. I'd collected 3 or 4 different makes & shades of grey floor paint; Leyland, Wickes, S'fix, International etc. All solvent based back then (5-10 years ago?). I just tipped the lot into an old 5 gallon brewing bucket, mixed to a uniform grey and away I went. Now I think a lot of the paints are water based so you could give a priming coat of thinned paint first. You might also consider non slip types for heavy foot traffic areas.

I used SBR rather than PVA on the concrete floor in my bathroom. Something to do with when we tile it later. On the lines of if ever water does get through (the tiles) it can lift the PVA and in turn the tiles.

That's what the missus is for!

Surely once you have a digger you want (need?) a dumper?

I think Dave is getting at running the MDPE in duct for the WHOLE LENGTH of the run. With what I want to run cable/pipe wise under the garden it won't be cheap I know that!

All I can add to this is if you can, BUY A DIGGER. I'd have been lost this weekend without my BiL's assistance with his digger.