Onoff

I'm tempted by the drywall gun.....

Do you reckon the tile trim would curve with a bit of gentle heat?

Some impressive work there! My pockets will be illuminated with LED strips. I'm mulling over arched tops to the pockets... I've printed out your setting out "how to post" from 11 April and pinned it to the wall!

@Nickfromwales.....

The 9mm freebie ply seems to be working out alright. 150mm centres p'board screws with the odd "miss": To get clearance over the horizontal soil I've brought the strips down as far as: There'll be a strip of 9mm along the bottom sole plate of the stud wall too where it's marked 1395. Then some low expansion foam behind to resist / cushion any "push". Just got to decide what orientation to use this board to cover the Geberit frame. Not quite wide enough to go vertical without an additional strip up the left: This is where I get asked why I didn't do the whole wall! Tbh doing the whole wall I'd have wanted marine ply so cost I guess. (Coupled with a big side of inexperience). It would have made figuring/marking out for the shower pockets easier maybe having one big wall. NOT looking forward to doing that and figuring how the tiles will sit though I have a certain Welshman's words of wisdom to follow!

Surely if you're buying / selling second hand then half price is a psychological figure, think of the HALF PRICE SALE banners you see everywhere. Pitch slightly under and you immediately go "Ooh, it's less that half price!" Ask to see one running I'd say. Ideally take someone who knows what they're looking at. More to the point can you lift it in your condition? And don't forget you'll need a shed to store it in!

I bet you'll collapse into bed... (Too soon? )

It is my understanding that if you just lay paving slabs then there's no DPM and damp will eventually creep through. (I did once half consider laying a sheet DPM atop a damp, single garage floor then laying paving slabs.....it never happened). I can't see why you couldn't lay a compacted base then blind with a strong, levelled sand/cement mix to keep it together. Then lay a DPM and slabs above this. A lot less work than mass concrete. Tbh, concreting isn't hard. This base took me about 4 hours to mix on my own. Included barrowing extra ballast from down the front of the plot. 10' x 8" I think and about 4" deep. In your design you want to apply the old 6" rule to anything that can get wet i.e. wood. The old adage is that a rain drop hits the "deck" and bounces up 6". This is why traditionally the DPC is always a minimum 6" above the "ground". At least that's my understanding as to the "why".

Holy Sh!t.....just reading this! Glad you & yours are OK and still here. Fair play to you for posting up in all the gory detail. From this others will learn, Just sorry you had to be the teacher! I'd love to say I'll pop round and help clear up but it's a bit of a trek! Just remember that hard hat if working under what's left in case it's unstable.

Those Spax st/st ones every time. My mate used this place for his Spax (decking) screws and even with delivery they WERE loads cheaper than Screwfix: https://www.klokow-gmbh.de Don't know about now after the Brexit thing. (Just make sure all the Torx heads are at the same orientation or it'll drive you nuts )

It's not that I go too far it's that I stray from the norm! I had the blocks, bricks wax paper and liquid DPM etc and before I knew where I was.....

I wanted vermin proof so did a hard-core base with loads of broken sheet glass, sand blind, DPM then 4" concrete. I didn't bother with a DPM under the walls just tanked the inside floor and up the walls. Tbh this was only to sit a crap freebie shed on and I had to make a new full size stable door. Also got rid of some 1863 stocks from the chimney on the first house. Damp problems with the actual wooden shed but I could always ditch it and build up off the dwarf walls. See how the old shed sits exactly atop the dwarf walls: And tanked, wax paper then a floor: But ffs don't listen to me, what I can't plagiarise I make up as I go along!

Sadly not a sinner! She can't visualise things in sketch form or rendered CAD. She insists on "seeing" things that don't yet exist.

It's a shed base, not over critical. Plenty out there barely have the rubble compacted I bet. I would though add this to your concrete mix along with a sheet of mesh. Much less tamping as it is a deaerator too. https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p80460?table=no

I like a clean slate, she's all for cover it up/you won't see it when it's done. I'll Hoover behind something even if it's being boarded over. She's spent (wasted?) cash on the lounge / diner when every wall, floor and ceiling down to the joists needs redoing. I'd have a boy's beer /barbie weekend, gut it and live with bare walls. My missus just doesn't think big.....which is just as well!

Silly I'm sure but I couldn't resist a comforting smear of CT1. This was the joint where I could only do half way around with my extra fillet of PVC filler. It's getting foamed in shortly and I'll carry on packing the studs. Fingers & everything else crossed! Attention next to the 32mm hole in the cistern and take a duct into the loft for future extraction duties! Going to do that in solvent weld.

Lucky we've not got an au pair then I guess...

Hillsborough was the year after Lockerbie. 96?

Sounds like bliss. Is she blonde, does her Dad own a pub?

No issues with my Evolution leccy wacker. 5kN is better than me doing it. Did the bathroom fine,

"Whatever you say's fine by me luv!"

Followed Mr @Nickfromwales instructions (going back months ) and all seems to be good on the solvent welded soil. Even ref the brown soil pipe. Did NOT think the spray nozzle was going to get around this fitting. I tried it actually in the bathroom first but found getting the right spray pattern then fighting to get it round the corner was messy and there was some stinky "blow back". So had a dry run with spare bits: Needs a nudge when the hose is on: What I found easiest was to set the wanted spray pattern in the garden then turn off at the tap. Then drag the hose in still set on that pattern and jiggle into the pipe. This way there's no worry of water going everywhere. Then and only then did I turn the tap back on:

I once saw a faux Georgian window made from 300x300 mirror tiles and white PVC electrical trunking. It reflected "woodland" wallpaper on the opposite side of the bedroom. Sounds naff but very effective. The guy had even made drapes and a pelmet for it.

I say I want, she says I don't /it's too expensive. Eventually it comes up cheap on eBay by which time it's taken so long she'll accept anything. You need to out stare them. Blinking is fatal.

I REALLY should have put a tee here where it sweeps up from the trench and under the footings (if you can call them that). I want to continue mains water up the garden to the left of the pic later on maybe. Getting in through / making off inside was one pig I didn't want to revisit but hey ho that's the bit I'll have to redo! A little tip. The above MDPE to brass stopcock (brand new) leaked no matter what I did. The good folk on here pointed me to various magical compounds and I settled on Jet Blue Plus. Expensive but worth every penny. Lubes the brass so no squeaking as you tighten as well as sealing: http://www.plumbcenter.co.uk/product/center-center-jet-blue-plus-500-g/