Onoff

Regs are often a poor minimum imo. Just to try and reinstate a continuous vcl. I am absolutely sold on the whole vcl / draught proofing idea. Makes SO much difference.

Nah! Heating oil's magic, it gets through anything! Tbh I do use gloves but always seem to get the odd splash on me.

Replied.

Looking at the lip on the plastic top then Tempest (or maybeWorcester)?

OK, I asked him if it could be a loose connection: "Could be but sounds like it’s the cell, is their any noise associated with the problem? Could be a loose or heat damaged wire or faulty thermostat or something. Give him my number if he needs a chat !"

Sounds like a simple loose connection to me but let's see what he comes back with. Just had my Mum and Dad's gas boiler dead as a dodo. Pushing the airing against the control centre at the back of the airing cupboard and everything was ok. Took the cover off the wiring centre and wiggled the wires...sparks galore and I found multiple loose connections. This is under a BG service contract and Dad's a BG pensioner. I reckon sometimes these bastards leave a few bits loose for a g'teed call out in the future!

He's come back ref the above when I asked could it be the photocell: "Yes to prove cover or remove cell to clean other possible causes fuel starvation or Air problems normally associated with tigerloop or as you said dirty or faulty photo electric cell" Will now ask ref it working ok with the "cover" off. Do you mean the lid of the boiler or what?

Sorry, "front panel"? What bit's that then?

I'll Whatsapp my boiler guru who is to boilers what the Welshman is to plumbing!

If I run out of oil I need to bleed pretty much every time. Otherwise hitting the burner reset button and it'll attempt to fire up then die due to fuel starvation. It's a doddle tbh. Get a tray under the burner. An old Neapolitan ice cream tub helps too. Unscrew this Allen screw, think it's 4mm (I only had a 5mm to hand). Unscrew it but keep very readily to hand. Hit the reset button a few times and you'll hear a hiss of air. Eventually you'll be rewarded with a steady stream of stinky heating oil. Whack the screw back in and then spend the rest of the evening trying to get the smell off your hands! Worth checking any filter too and that the fire valve hasn't tripped.

Done the pump in my Riello a couple of times. There was a "fix" sometimes on these whereby you could replace a little key on the shaft that disintegrates from memory. Plumbcentre do the pumps but are 'kin expensive so shop around!

@Carrerahill, cheers for that but I've got all bases covered. I paid £12 ea for these: https://www.ledbulbs.co.uk/enlite-e8-8w-fixed-dimmable-fire-rated-led-downlight-cool-white So IP65, fire rated & with a seal. But...the seal on these (or any other downlights) is no way as good as the vcl I've punctured to fit them. I'm trying to create a cavity whereby the vcl is reinstated as best as I can. The vcl will be the Thermahood.

Can hypothermia manifest as depression? I have no problem rendering in the cold. In fact I reckon the pc / AutoCAD might in fact run a tad faster....

I figured I'm on borrowed time with it! So worth it! There's a golf equivalent titled magazine too. And another one that tickled me: hidden to minimise offence to anglers

I think Viz but the nail on the head:

Yeah +1, my missus keeps batting on about skiing. My idea of a holiday is a beach in Greece where I can pretend I'm reading a book through dark glasses whilst watching German girls playing topless volleyball in the surf... Skiing though...there are some proper weirdos about! )

That's a time switch.....

So why does a standard laser pointer without the IR bit still pop the balloon?

Sounds better than mine! The black marker pen or dab of black high temp paint should help. With the pen a couple of goings over might be needed. The problem is the laser reflecting off the shiny surface. Same as when kids point a laser at a balloon. More chance of it popping if you mark a black spot on it. The black absorbs more energy and the spot heats up.

Hmmm...accuracy on those cheap laser IR thermometers. I think mine was a fiver off eBay. An inch from the radiator, 37deg. Stand back 10' and point at the same spot and it's reading 30deg. It is at least useful if measuring components for comparitive purposes as long as you do it from the same distance.

+1. Zinger Tower meal with beans and coleslaw side, yummy! Then 2 ibuprofen the next day for the junk food headache I get.

@LeanTwo, the lights come with something like this, no? This from my Aurora / Enlite ones: I'm using Thermahoods anyway over mine so there's even more g'teed clearance and spending far too much time on it!

You can get admixes from all the usual places e.g. https://www.wickes.co.uk/Sika-Wintermix-Chloride-Free-Admix+Frostproofer---5L/p/133788?CAWELAID=120135120001185214&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=52608956144&CATCI=aud-305024815433:pla-298182958475&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI36H-4-LA2QIV75XtCh3mQADbEAQYASABEgKa7vD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds T'station do the Evebuild one I suspect might even be the same as the Sika stuff. Must be my Limerick roots but they do say the Irish wonder what the English do with the time they save by rushing! Explains a lot!

I got £900 worth of oil at the end of November, hoping we can make it through the worst. Got the 2kW fan heater going full pelt in the lounge at the mo and it's a sweltering 17.2 in here and that's with the CH on. No wonder both kids are so skinny, must be the shivering!

You mean I won't be enjoying the current 11.6 in there next week?