Onoff

Ta. Just being pedantic! Nah, trying to make as neat as possible! I make it: - 17mm long socket for the diverters - 1" socket for the cartridges - 52mm socket for the central flow control. Think 46 is the biggest I have...

Be a pity to render that brickwork over the bookcases!

@ProDave, does your "plasterboard" behind mimic the holes in the wall board? & Did you eventually join the holes together to make removing the cartridges easier by just taking the face plate off as @CC45 I think it was said? Cheers

Don't know. Guessing not all PU sealants are made equal! Until I saw the Knauf stuff in the tube I was just going to use the Mapei tile adhesive I'd bought.

How much of the Aqua Panel should I leave clear around the valve? This big rectangle or less and ditto the tiles. Thinking if it goes t!ts up and I need to break a tile out and get in there!

Realised where I've gone wrong. I should have done the side panels first THEN fitted the mitre board that is slightly pissed. Could do with leaning over in the direction of the arrow a tad. The main thing is they are level and don't lean back or forward. And now of course back to filling the gap. The label on the board says to use tile adhesive with a 3-5mm gap between boards. In Wickes just now I found Knauf do a gap filling PU filler specifically for Aqua Panel. Label says to put one board up, put a line of this stuff up the edge and push the next board against it. £11 a tube mind! Can't believe there's not a cheaper PU based filler out thre that would do the same job! The ingredients: Instructions: And then the tape, £6 ish for 20m. Had forgotten about this.

A non starter tbh. Just realised the panel above is SIka EBT'd to the panels lining the pocket. It's not as if we'll be slamming each other up against the shower walls in the throes of soapy passion, we'll leave that sort of thing to the newly weds!

I knew early on that a floor to ceiliby height of 2470mm was going to come back and bite me on the arse! Without cutting boards I sent avoid thus piddly strip about 70mm wide. Can't have the strip at the base as v.little to screw to as the soil pipe runs behind. Still, it'll be screwed on the short edges & I'll fill the joints and tank over it.

The leaflet says 30m indoor, 160m outdoors - presumably line of sight. That's their lab test distances. I know with the Bluetooth speakers just fitted I only really have to go out of the bathroom with the phone and the signal gets choppy. Probably because walls, floor and ceiling are lined with foil faces pir. 1' solid walls don't help.

Short video of the switch. Not fixed, just held against a random wall:

Do you hoover the joint before CT1'ing if rough surfaces? Two smooth say tiled faces I imagine it's just Multi Solve. I mean say you're sticking a pan down to stone. I hoovered the concrete before I placed the Aqua Panel edge down on it (Sika EBT in this case). Just figure the more loose bits you can get up...

I'd email them a copy of the letter too. Just say in the covering email you're sending this by recorded mail.

Only 3 years...lightweight!

Yep, give a dimmer a stab and it turns on a normal receiver, though there's nothing official I've found that says it works. Stab again and it turns off.

Or 4 Fords in various states of disrepair...

These dimmer switches I have, you can only switch them down, let go and it springs back.

Tbh they are function over form. You can get them only in white or chrome that they call "silver". The chrome style is supposed to wear off quite easy. The switch style is pretty much like those giant accessible switches...the whole front is all switch(es) They do 1,2 and 3 gang standard switch in white or chrome. You can't get the dimmers in chrome and they don't do a 3-gang dimmer. But they work.

Could you use a cheap car recharge kit with R-134A gas? (I know nothing btw). Edit: Further reading suggests not!

I've just purchased some Quinetic gear after confirming something that had been bugging me for a while but I've now figured. The Quinetic 2-gang wireless dimmer switch (QUD12W) bumpf says it needs to be paired with the appropriate dimming receiver (QUR301). It DOESN'T. The dimmer switch will operate the standard 6A receiver (QUR303) to give on / off, no dimming function. I went into TLC earlier and they didn't know but were happy to open boxes and we wired it up on the bench. So it works that one gang of the dimmer will control / dim the downlights via the dimmer receiver. The other gang of the dimmer will do the ambient, non dimmable lighting, LED strip and Bluetooth receiver via a standard 6A receiver. Guessing they just assume you will want to use dimmable kit with a dimmer switch so highlight the need for a dimmer receiver and don't mention it will also work with the standard receiver.

This just back. I was going to say nitrogen too so I must have picked something up from him! "Wouldn’t put anything else in but OFN (oxygen free nitrogen ) as all the others may have consequences Anything put in will require vac out to about 1 torr and some gases become explosive when mixed with fridge oil The only way to check the refrig side is to put some fridge gauges on it to assess gas levels Does sound short or possibly completely empty to me , compressor discharge should be to hot to touch"

Says Terry: "R410A is anywhere from £80 to £100 a kilo in this part of the world When he runs it feel the temperature across the drier and the check valve If there’s a temp diff the drier may be choked or the check valve may be stuck"

I just asked an AC guru I know from site, he wrote: "If it’s new and no refrigerant has been lost on installation then perhaps check the operation of the reversing valve as it can only do one operation at any one time If it’s going in through two circuits at once the compressor may shut down due to the transducer reading pressure/ temps that aren’t correct" Cheers Terry for the pointers if you're reading this!

Did two DG windows recently. Foamed the first and used Compriband on the second. Imo Compriband all day long. Better "seal", less mess, more flexible over time compared to cured foam.

Just ordered a bag of the £9.99 S'fix stuff @PeterW said. Also need to get one more Aqua Panel en route to S'fix.

I presume you'll insulate the pipes under the trap to mitigate any drying out effect on the shower trap?