Onoff

How about a cheap concrete or mortar mix then like this? 20kg but cheap & mix as much as you need. 10mm max aggregate size too so as long as your "trough" to fill is deeper than 10mm it'll level up nice. https://www.diy.com/departments/blue-circle-multi-purpose-ready-to-use-concrete-20kg-bag/135767_BQ.prd? You could put some Rawlplugs and screws into the brick to help grab the muck.

Your post yesterday at 19.14hrs showed the top of the inner leaf? Expose that and your "muck" will bond to that. Been there mate! Slipped disc. Tramadol & Naproxen mix. Nerve issues meant No.1s & 2s were fun. Never sure if I needed to go...or already had!

My weapon of choice for trimming foam. Old bread (?) knife. Wavy one side and serrated the other. I seem to remember it was forked at the end at one time. It's seen use for weeding before! And my other weapon of choice. Reminds me of the Party Sevens as a kid! A winning combination!

No idea. She wants white I want grey!

Honestly it's looking good. Hand on heart you could stick insulated pb down to the brick with low expansion foam. If you're really set on doing something more solid though... Put another batten in then to form a lip. Your 27mm insulated pb will sit on that at the front and screw to it. Screw from the side thru the other battens as @PeterW says. Pilot drill it so the wood doesn't split at the end. Then stick it as best as you can along the wall with some No Nonsense stuff. Let it go off. Dig out some foam to expose the "bricks" . Give it a Hoover. Soak with pva (or sbr) mixed 5:1 with water. Kid's craft glue if you're stuck even. Mix up a strong sharp sand / cement mix say 4:1 using the same 5:1 pva mix. Not too runny, and pack it in and level off. Have a beer. With the drugs you're on it should be a ride! When the cement has dried loose fit your 27mm insulated pb. Try and make sure it sits level to the window horizontal lines. Blob with No Nonsense grab adhesive and weight down. Have a beer!

Right then I'm going with Larsen tile adhesive products. NI company, products get good reviews. If anyone knows any different let me know! This acrylic primer: https://decoramic.co.uk/larsen-acrylic-primer-tub-primer-5l?search=larsen And this adhesive, I'm assuming I use grey adhesive with grey tiles? For some reason grey is cheaper than white..... https://decoramic.co.uk/larsen-flex-standard-set-single-part-adhesive-20kg-grey?search=larsen I'm going with a 6mm bed on the floor as it's so level. They reckon 4-5m2 per 20kg bag so that's half that coverage with a 6mm bed? I've got just over the 5m2 typically so I'm going to just get 3 of the 20KG bags to start with and see how I get on with it. Any left over can start the wall tiling. A question.....the tanking kit comes with "acrylic primer" would that be similar stuff to the Larsen gear? Cheers

Put a 3o taper on the pockets. Primed with 5:1 SBR then used my special tool. You can't buy this in the shops! Does two different depth pockets: They'll do!

Anything to put off this tanking! I filled the floor void at the back of the cupboard. Wetted the void with 5:1 SBR then 4:1 concrete made with the same SBR mix: Made a start on drilling thru for the bath cabling. Some frpb in the little cupboard outside the bathroom where the relocated bath controls will sit at a convenient height (they were strapped u/side the bath originally). The black plastic things come off of heat shrink reels I use at work and fit into a 50mm Starrett cut hole a treat: Tapered the pockets too with tile adhesive. Running out of excuses. Need to do a beer run so I can think straight!

You're doing alright! Just cut that foam monstrosity level and stick your insulated pb direct to that. I stuck my insulated pb on with a combo of Sikaflex EBT and some low expansion foam as said above. Tbh the screws attaching it to the batten are doing most of the work. Screw yours around the edge like I did and on the back of the pb put some big blobs (don't skimp on it) of the No Nonsense grab adhesive under the sill, behind the side bits and the bit at the top of the reveal. It's cheap enough. Put some bracing timbers between whilst it sets to keep all square. If using LOW EXPANSION foam then weight down the insulated pb with bricks. You will need long dry wall screws ideally. I think ordinary ones might rust and show through? Remember the side bits support the top and keep the ends of the sill bit down. Yes I'm neat...but if I look back at what I did way back on my first house I probably wasn't. New things are scary until you try 'em! I'm putting off tanking my bathroom because I've never done it. Does mean that today I've sorted a few niggly bits instead though!

I found broccoli made excellent small trees...

You really never have used this stuff before have you? At least it'll be well filled! Norm is to 50% fill with the regular expanding foam. That amount will take a while to set. Says on the can only fill 50-70% of the void you're filling. It'll be dry tomorrow. Did you try and fill the WHOLE cavity with it or just the top few inches like I showed with the eps? Use the foam gun cleaner as an aerosol to clean off the wet foam from anything you don't want it on. You did get the gun cleaner I said was a must?

If you're very careful you can scrape uPVC frames with a new Stanley blade to ease scratches / nicks out. (S'fix do a No Nonsense uPVC cream cleaner which is good). Foam the cavity. Let it go off. Cut it level. I use a cheapo, bendy old bread knife but a hacksaw blade will do. If the blade is coming out sticky as you're cutting then it;s NOT gone off. If you cut foam too early you get left with hollows. Tbh you could do your pb up to the underside of your new / extended sill and bed the sill down on some dot n dab low expansion foam making sure you do along the back, sides and front with a thin line too to seal the edges. Another option is chuck some mortar in there and level off then tile above the worktop and tile the sill too.

EX MiL I should have mentioned, don't think she was on his side when the marriage went t!ts up!

Might have to be whatever generic (Sticks Like, No More etc) one I have kicking around here. Must put a screen up so I don't shower the bath with sparks!

Thinking of using one of the Larsen products. Gets good reviews on a couple of tiling forums I've looked at. Stockists in Lewes and Rochester neither of which are a million miles away. http://www.larsenbuildingproducts.com/products/range/7/category/36/

Any recommendations on tile adhesive? Really would prefer it standard set rather than rapid!

Bugger maybe? I'd planned to use this tile adhesive: Cheap and long working time so ideal for me, but... Says in the small print it's OK for bathrooms but not specifically wet rooms. Main worry is that it says it's no good for heated floors: Any suggestions? Cheers

Finally got the old incoming mains re-routed to feed the Geberit cistern! Not sure still how I'm going to finish off the back of this cupboard! Isolation via a decent Pegler valve: And good access from the back of the cupboard: I need to hack off the old incoming iron pipe below the concrete and infill that bit...angle grinder straight through? Do I need to "cap" the iron once cut? It goes nowhere, just out under the footings, about 700mm down where it's happily rotting away. Ta.

I've some plans for a roll top desk. Basically you stick thin wooden slats to leathercloth.

Take a look and see if there's any evidence of the frame being fixed with 'em. This is one of my doors, got off a mate as a freebie and repurposed! Some spare frame fixings shown too: As I said earlier though, with fixed windows they tend to fix the frame first then put the glazing in so you don't see the fixing. With openers you should see the fixing like above. Sometimes one visible at the top too though this can be a pig to drill because of the lintel. Take the trim off of one side to start with. I almost can g'tee you'll see a scary gap. You can then see if there's any frame fixings in there. Fill the gap with low expansion foam. Keep any windows shut whilst it sets is another tip. That way it fills up the unwanted gap at the side rather than expanding and squeezing the opened window opening! You can protect the uPVC with some masking tape etc against foam getting on the frame. In your case I wouldn't worry about a dpm like I did.

I lad I knew walked into his MIL's kitchen to find her standing there holding a broom. "What's up Maureen, can't start it?" said he.

Upvc windows...who knows how they're fixed! On a retro fit ideally the frames are first put in using frame fixings. Then the frame is glazed. It's been know for the windows to be held in place and JUST foamed! As yours was an extension they might have used little clips that attach to the frame and get incorporated into the mortar joints as the wall was built. Afraid you won't know for sure until the trim comes off. If you can't score some eps just use gun foam. Don't forget a can of gun cleaner, it's essential imo when changing cans over on the gun! It doesn't last long when using so get two if you can stretch to it. Pb is fixed to timber battens using special black screws often referred to as "dry wall" screws. Phosphate coated I think. Shown here 35, 45 & 55mm long. I bought them in bulk, cheap when Lidl were doing them last. I used the longer ones to fix thru the 27mm insulated pb. I also bought an auto feed plasterboard screw gun again from Lidl that takes these: Thats another story. Presume you'll be using a cordless and standard pb screws. 25mm drywall screws are the shortest usually but I'm thinking you might want to go 32mm as your battens might not be dead straight. https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-black-phosphate-bugle-head-twin-thread-uncollated-drywall-screws-3-5-x-32mm-1000-pack/16374#product_additional_details_container

Magic potions likely seeing that the missus is a witch...

I nogged mine as in some cases I've 100mm ish of packing behind the studwork where I've done pockets in the wall etc.

Pressure testing the towel radiator loop with my silly mains pressure! Holding at 8bar.