Onoff

What's the minimum gap for tile adhesive?

No composite grating that woukd fit the bill?

A Roballo slewing bearing is what you want. Let me make some enquiries and see if I can get one off a mate.

Galvanised steel sitting in damp will rust like f*** and surprisingly quickly too.

I don't really want to take this adhesive any lower. The replacement tile fits flush with a bit of a gap behind. OK just to prime and slap some more adhesive in prior to the tile?

20A DP switch feeding an unswitched socket, fuse in plug top is common.

It was nearly 5mm low, bottom right corner. Had to come off. Showed up like a sore thumb when I put the bottom infill tile to the floor. Talking of sore thumbs, ceramic tile / glaze splinters are a joy! You can hear the needle against them as you dig them out!

My mate in California (shortly Oregon) is hopefully sending me a new casting. If not I'll carve one out of a block of ali.

My mate did offer yesterday to lend me his guinea pig! 1/2 acre of grass though...capybara maybe...

I am NOT taking any more off! No way, no how, never! It is a proper mission and the Aqua Panel behind doesn't like it. Chipped the tile to the left too I will live with my mistakes. Let them a be a lesson for others etc.

Been a bit slow this week! Having cut all the bottom tiles I WAS going to make good the damaged Aqua Panel patches then re tank the bottom strip tomorrow night. Holes for pipes cut and for wall drain: 22mm hole for a 15mm pipe? No, it won't annoy me not being symmetrical! One interesting oddity; the tanked area around the wall drain. Now at the moment the wall drain trap is dry. The stub pipe sticking through the wall is capped off with a loose fit aerosol lid. There is then a bit of a cold draught coming through. The wall, where cold draught meets the edge of the ranked insulated wall is WET with a bit of condensation. Can't see an issue tbh but interesting (to me anyway). However.....I couldn't live with a really low mosaic so out came the chisel. I drilled some holes with the arrow head drill to give the chisel a start: That's the new tile to go in once I've got rid of the adhesive! The worry is will I decide other tiles need replacing?

"COMPRESSOR20" entered at the checkout should see this cheap Aldi compressor down to £59.99 https://www.aldi.co.uk/workzone-2-5-hp-air-compressor/p/085433223920500? Says it's exclusive to me but...?

Brake seized up! Peerless gearbox I believe: Two steel studs tapped into the alloy gearbox case: Corroded and then some. Should have a threaded portion on the ends. So this (broken) Cast bit can bolt on: Too bloody cold to carry on out there tonight!

This might be of interest: https://www.simasa.co.uk/blog/sin-categoria/how-to-use-a-tile-saw-to-cut-bricks/

Get yourself a 3kVA trannie with x2 16A outlets. Don't be tempted by the cheapo ones for £20 ish. I'd be looking to pay double that. S'fix do one.

Link works here: https://www.toolbritannia.co.uk/building-equipment-n/paving-tilesaw-tools-n18/husqvarna-ts350e-110v-brick--block~hustts350e%241

"One o them big yellow batteries"? (Actual term quoted to me years back by a lad on site ) Yes. 110V stuff is much more durable in the main than 230V. That one only needs 1.5kW. New 110V trannies are light now. You can run off of your mains supply and a normal circuit - just plug the trannie in.

Brick jig: https://www.gustharts.com/machinery-c123/construction-machinery-c243/cut-off-machine-concrete-cutter-accessories-c261/stihl-large-brick-jig-p1313/s3056? 16A supply : https://www.screwfix.com/p/scheppach-hsm-3500-350mm-heavy-stone-tile-saw-240v/6632G? 110V better: https://www.toolbritannia.co.uk/building-equipment-n/paving-tilesaw-tools-n18/husqvarna-ts350e-110v-brick--block~hustts350e$1

Wet cutters of course create quite a bit of dirty, dust laden run off. Can block drains etc. Bit of scruffy garden to ditch it onto is what I do. Wife will forever by digging up tile spacers here!

That's just how the professionals do stud walling. Gives you thinner walls than in timber.

They do indeed cut everything but not as well imo as a dedicated saw for whatever that material is. Don't forget that once you have that diamond blade on you won't be able to cut wood or steel anymore without changing the blade. Seem to recall reading somewhere you shouldn't use the slide action if cutting metal. Seemingly, for tiles etc you can though, and I have. I do wonder how long, with the abrasive "stone" dust generated, the unit will last even with good dust extraction.

Dunno, 300x75 I'm reading one web spec 220x60 on another. I've got the Rage 3 btw not the Rage 3 +.

You have pm.

Try it. I've had my wall chasers hooked up to a 2000W woodworking dust extractor and managed near dustless chasing inside the furnished house. SWMBO didn't seem to think so though! I reckon it was just the bits by the ceiling made the dust when I had to sds chisel them out where the chaser won't go up to.

She was saying her brother did one wall with "bitumen, battens and Celotex then pb. Guessing he painted the wall first? Made a cracking job to be fair.