Onoff

So I've found a 28mm magnetic filter: https://www.bes.co.uk/intaklean-2-magnetic-filter-28mm-22831 As I understand it though I need to put this in a vertical section of 28mm pipe in the return to the boiler. In the loft the return pipe is completely horizontal. I've just re lagged it: The only vertical drop is behind this boxing in downstairs: Flow I assume is on the left out of the top of the boiler. Return on the right. And looking up: Sound like a plan? Make the boxing in a bit bigger and put the magnetic filter in that 28mm drop? It'd be much more accessible than in the loft for dosing etc. Also is there any reason why the flow can't come out the other side of the boiler at the top? Second to last photo there's a plug there. It'd get rid of that awkward loop of pipe round the back of the boiler. Cheers

Recommended to me by someone on here, Polypipe panels. They interlock and the pipe clips in: Saves using the little standoffs and no cable ties. Also don't need a membrane between the concrete/screed and foil face of the pir. However...though I used them for one room I think I'd just cable tie to the mesh like the posters before above if doing the whole house. Why? Well my bathroom slab is 100mm thick and because of the built in upstands you don't get the full 100mm depth so it sounds a bit "hollow".

I'll have you know I swing both ways! Can't beat a drop of Chateauneuf-du-Pape...now where's that pint pot... Wine, beer, just haven't touched spirits for over 30 years now.

My baffles were burnt through. Replaced with plates from my fabricator. Simple rectangular plates cut to size. Lid was knackered where the insuation had disintegrated: Got new insulation: Made a new lid: New gasket for the burner: Stuck a new jet in... Thermostat replaced a while back. Fire valve was playing up but seems to have settled down.

@PeterW, ref whether it's back to the tiling after the CH/HW valves diversion... I keep missing calls from Kevin at C-Tec ref whether I can/should use CT1 Power Grab & Bond to put the tiles on the tanked deck after I sent him pics of my rough tests with it. One time I did call him he was on a day off out in Brum. Offered to call me back that night from his hotel but I said to leave it. Still find it odd how when there is no moisture on any of the tiled surfaces in the bathroom, if I leave a tile "unstuck" on the tanked deck it develops condensation underneath!

Touch wood my Warmflow with a Riello burner has been good. Pretty sure if you want to buy one now you need to say it's for your "chicken shed", "pig sty" etc.

The 2 & 3-port valve replacements took precedence this week!

All you've got to do now is paint the walls behind to get rid of all those pencil marks and it'll look pucker.

TSOs only really act now based on number of complaints they're that stretched.

Ta. Is mine now deemed "fully pumped" looking at the diagram above? I assume it's worth me changing the controller? Or just put the switches to fully pumped.....not sure what they're on now tbh.

More questions! These are my two controllers. The lower one does Downstairs CH and HW. The downstairs CH being the old 3/4" nominal bore single pipe system. I added the upper controller when I put the 4 modern radiators in upstairs (no heating there before). That was when I added the two 2-port valves to zone upstairs & downstairs. So that upper controller does Upstairs central heating only. The Hot Water side of that controller is doing nothing even though the lights on. Back then it seemed sensible to add another Tower controller and Tower 2-port valves so everything was the same make as the original "contractors pack". I think and may be wrong that these controllers are inherently wasteful. Looking at the photo below, if I set either controllers HEATING setting to CONST, then the HOT WATER follows suit. Pressing the HOT WATER grey button and it won't move off of CONST all the time HEATING is on CONST. Seems very wasteful?

That's what I'm trying to figure, will water in the expansion pipe naturally level out to that of the header tank?

You mean two lots of X400?

The 22mm expansion pipe coming out of the air separator, that then goes up to the header tank... How high up that pipe would the water in the system go? Thinking if I cut it I could introduce the x400 cleaner and then repair the pipe with a coupler.

Dehumidifier surely?

You can get copper bus bars to connect terminals together then an end cap for the"last" one. Bits picked at random but you'll get the drift: Got to redo my CH/HW wiring centre some time so I'll post a pic. Don't wait up!

Welcome back. Nothing worse than toothache.

Some typical DIN rail terminals: A typical one: A blue one: A stop end goes on the rail to stop stuff sliding along it: And an earth one. As described above, see how the terminals are connected to the rail:

Yes or it'll look shit. However...you could tile up to the sockets leaving a little gap around them to make sure you can remove in the future then undo them and fit white finger plates. It'll still look shit imo but it might work for you!

SF & TS both do them in zinc plated or brass. Ironmongery Online & Locks Online too.

Ta. How should I set up? Gate valve has 10 turns on it from fully open to bottoming out so I have it at 5 turns back i.e halfway. I wonder if that's why downstairs CH also is slow to heat up if I'm doing HW at the same time...last night when I shut off the upstairs CH flow to try and improve the downstairs CH pressure I probably still had the 3-port porting to do HW. I'll try to close upstairs CH and HW and see if that effects how quick downstairs CH gets warm. Back to the balancing valve is there an ideal in and out temperature on the coil in the tank? Also, how I I calculate the ammount of X400 I need to add, i.e system volume? Working out the pipe runs volume is I guess doable but how do I work out the rad volumes? Cheers

Slightly off topic here: The gate valve you can see coming off the bottom of the cylinder was I'm sure down as "balncing valve" on the old sketch pinned to the side of the cylinder. I note that the pipe coming off this gate valve (blue tape) always feels about the same temp as the pipe going into the cylinder - (black tape on it), seems wrong to me. To fit the 3-port I closed this gate valve. Now undone halfway back. What purpose does this serve anyone? Cheers

Rads are all pretty warm tbh. Place is still firkin freezing though!

Is that in the return to the boiler? Any chance of a pointer to one? Cheers

How about Sentinel X400 System Restorer or X800 Fast Acting Cleaner?