Onoff

😬

For your ego?

Now you need a 3D scanner. https://shop.revopoint3d.com/pages/creator-activity Then whatever you scan you can scale up before printing

Are you making a special surprise for her?

Is it on all the time and are the running costs cheaper than the alternatives? Are you well insulated / draught free?

I dream of being 1mm out...

At least it's not yellow, yet. Now you've got your printer you can print some decent spacers!

That grout joint's off btw.

You want simple? https://nanocad.com/products/nanocad-free/

More big ****er!

A few of us have Hudson Reed. I'm very pleased with mine. I think it's this one: https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/hudson-reed-reign-triple-concealed-thermostatic-shower-valve-with-diverter-rei3417? Or maybe this: https://www.hudsonreed.co.uk/products/showers/triple-valves/REI3411 British made, 20 year guarantee etc. They might do what you want.

Could I take the door off of my fridge, remove a similar size window and wedge the fridge in the hole, then seal all round the edge? Given the thread title I thought I'd ask...

You subbed the job out then?

If you'd have bought this and some black TPU you'd have had a happy wife by now: https://store.creality.com/uk/products/ender-3-v2-3d-printer?

Like a hybrid heat pump?

See how you subconsciously put insulate first? 😂

It's got to be fabric first as that makes the best of whatever heat source. Well insulated with well considered airtightness and 15 cats in a cage would probably work.

Pointless if you're pi$$ing heat out of plasterboard tents.

All ways.

So use your imagination! "Lose" some insignificant plastic kitchen bits, blame it on the supplier then suddenly realise you can print them. Go for the double and tell her how you've been on the phone giving them what for and they're sending new bits out etc. @Pocster's gonna get some!

Spaghetti Detective app allows you to keep a constant camera eye on your print and messages you if it goes awry.

In theory the bed and workpiece cool down and contract at different rates. As the bed cools you might hear a light cracking sound as the workpiece detaches. The Anycubic Ultrabase is really good for this with no extra adhesion promoter required. It's Teflon or similar coated. One reason for getting the borosilicate glass top was so that we can use other adhesion promoters, tapes etc and lever, use a sharpened scraper etc to encourage things to come off. All without damaging the Ultrabase. If printing a run of PLA the glass comes off. Sometimes it's easier to print and let the workpiece cool fully. Then heat the bed up so the bottom layer softens a bit and you can pull it off. PETG tends to stick really well.

Well done, considering your £200 budget, was it secondhand or for spares/repair?

ABS or ASA is probably best externally. ABS nicely colour fast too. Saying that we've done some PLA, in shaded areas, some primed and painted, some not that's all been fine. ABS then is notorious for warping hence an enclosure with fume control / extraction is essential. We've not been able to successfully print ABS yet but must tweak the enclosure / extraction and try again. Hugely susceptible to draughts. I know lads and it's all they use for printing. ASA is a bit more forgiving warping wise but again needs extraction. Fume control can be either by direct venting to outside or through say charcoal etc filters. You get adhesion promoters of various forms. With Anycubic they have a special dimpled bed that is magic for PLA. It adheres when printing like sh!t to a blanket. When the bed cools the part just releases. PLA loves printing in the cold, we often leave the window open. ABS needs a warm cabinet. You can add a borosilicate glass plate atop your print bed. On that you can paint ABS slurry, Kapton tape, blue masking tape, hairspray, 3D-Lac, Pritt Stick etc etc. I imagine most of your prints will be in TPU.