Onoff

Neodymium.

A cover meter is what you want. Saying that the last time I used one was circa 1987/88. Had to use to detect RSJs beneath a concrete roof slab where there was no drawings or access from below.

Goes by the name of Cadamir...

@PeterW, way back you recommended a place for replacement toilet seats that stocked a huge range. I've found: https://www.replacementtoiletseats.co.uk/ & https://www.choicereplacementtoiletseatshop.co.uk/ One of them was it? Mate has decided to couple his Geberit frame with a cheapo pan so I've told him to be bloody sure he can get new seats! Cheers

Free trial here: https://www.scan2cad.com/ Vague recollections of trying it in the early 2000's. Looked OK until you zoomed in then it was all broken lines.

There are raster to vector packages like Scan2Cad that purport to convert. Yes they'll produce a .dwg but unless they've massively improved since I Iast tried don't bother.

If only SWMBO was from Thailand....

Simpson Strongtie do do special screws for joist hangers. They aren't threaded all the way so I guess retain their strength in the portion under the head where the shank is beefy (like a nail). Probably expensive. Definitely expensive compared to nails.

Some videos here for Simpson Strongtie brand hangers that might assist: https://www.strongtie.co.uk/resources/videos

Filling these pillars... I've 1 jumbo bag each of: - 10mm pea shingle - All in ballast - Sharp sand That I'm keen to use up. I've also approx 10 bags of plastic bagged Rugby cement. Out of date by a good while. Basically I ordered a load a while back and 3 bags were split (when I did the bathroom floor I think). By way of compensation they sent me 1/2 a pallet's worth that I couldn't use. I'd like to use it up but if not it'll find a home in a mate's over site for his extension. I was even considering pouring in a couple or 3 of those expanding foam post hole fillers you see on YouTube. One worry there is I might get lots of condensation on the face of the pillar. Is the old cement a goer?

Not to rub it in but care to share the original design? Stunning as it is it's pretty striking, visually. Amazed that where it is they didn't insist on something more muted. Weird as the outbuildings had to be black didn't they?

Next question, the flint infills. Got to decide yet whether to knap them, I likely will. (Got to make some boppers). I seem to recall somebody saying to use lime mortar as ordinary opc will shrink away from them leaving them loose. B&Q seem nearest for lime: 25kg for £11. (TP want £19 for the same bag!) https://www.diy.com/departments/blue-circle-hydrated-lime-25kg-bag/35712_BQ.prd Any pointers on using it as in back to basics, what do I do with it? Mix with sand if so what sort? Consistency I'm looking for? Thanks in advance!

Ta. Food for thought. I'll look tomorrow at what's what.

Top of brick has to finish level with that wooden former on the front. What do you reckon lose it on the joints?

If I start drinking gin will my house look like that?

Does it line up with the dormer roof or is it the camera angle? If it does, is it by luck or design?

Reckon I need to claw back 12mm in height Due to a combo of initially the welded angle issue then too thick mortar lines and basically not working to those lines. My fault. Each horizontal black line on the post is 75mm apart. Where the bricks finish at the mo it's 63mm to the next black line! So 12mm in total. Thinking to thin 3 courses by 4mm each using the diamond blade in the evolution saw.

Like the way the line in the gable render (expansion joint?) appears to marry up with the roof of the dormer.

Like what Jeremy did in his picture above. Tbh it's what many do and it works. Chairs or stools are other terms used.

Stunning.

No my brother's FiL did, Wally James was his name. I got to clear his shed out a couple of years back (had the shed too tbh ? ). Oddly enough I collected one of my welders earlier from my parents elderly neighbour and was making him laugh telling how I'd tried to arc weld steel to brass. Turns out his BiL worked for Molins too. I'll find out his name. Only places I've ever frequented in Deptford was Garlands and the Rose Of Denmark. Did some work at Rothmans in Aylesbury.

The lad and I did a few more courses. We are not brickies by a long shot! . Made a faux pas! 7th course high is a few mm higher than it should be. There's an angle iron welded to the box section that the set back brick at course 7 should have sat on directly. I unfortunately put muck on it then the brick. Living with it.

I recall at the time people were suggesting dpm or even roofing felt behind the wall. I think it was Firwood Paints Black Bitumen I used....cos it was free!

Best way to stop render coming off the front, imho, having done it 30 years ago and its still good, is paint behind the wall (soil side) with a black bituminous paint.

Well ths jury's still out on the effectiveness of this. I think it works "but could be better". Attempted to "make a seal" but tricky with such a pert tushi! ? I wonder if the main extractor (top right) is dragging the pan (bottom left) smell out and into the room and that's what's noticeable? Next then to build a Papst fan into a small box and introduce to the 32mm pipe. Then try that without the extractor on.