Onoff

Wtf? Up until now I thought ABCD made a perfect square!

No power required at the doorbell / intercom / camera end. Power over the Cat-5. Works for me. Cheaper would be better!

Its interesting than the change BACK to metal consumer units was in part due to poorly installed insulated ones going up in flames. However one of the best examples of a consumer unit fire was the stately home one that was within a metal unit. From memory a knockout hadn't been glanded off an mice made a nest. It went up I imagine due to a loose connection and in effect became a wall mounted fire. Flames went up the handy metal conduits acting as chimneys and torched the place.

Presume you've got a 25mm? I've a spare here if ever you want it. Came in a box of bits from a sparks who passed away.

Any internet sleuths find this any cheaper? https://www.amazon.co.uk/TMEZON-Wireless-Intercom-Doorbell-1x1200TVL/dp/B01N1MKRDV/ref=asc_df_B01N1MKRDV/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309950309033&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8288679732925167238&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006618&hvtargid=pla-593082519484&psc=1 Cheers

What about Green Glue? That stays a bit sticky. Not used myself but seen on site. They were soundproofing with it but said it was fireproof too. Bloke said "it never really drys". The applicator guns look a bit longer than normal maybe and were branded I'm sure. Or Everflex AC50? Toolstation do that. That "drys" very stretchy.

I haven't got plumbing dies for my Hilmor. Only got a Record bender with 15 & 22mm former for copper.

Oh yes you certainly can! I constantly get the p!ss taken out of me for one I did (electrical) a while back on site. Will try and get a pic.

Ah yes! 1)Torture for a bit 2)Bite off head and devour, 3)Bite off arse end and tail ditto. 4)Action of 3) will have extruded all the best bits. Devour. 5)Always leave the gall bladder. Just the nightly show on our patio really.

Wine bottle window:

How about incorporating the glass door from a defunct washing machine? Makes a nice smugglers window...if you've a small head...

Yep, allegedly they work on a better safe than sorry principle! ? I just like the idea / technical aspect of the 3 in one...wonder if they make them double pole... The conspiracy theorist in me wonders if they are in fact a subtle way of reducing demand on the grid...more take up = more trips = less draw! ?

Don't know...the 2 module wide ones are £100+.

I like this! Having recently done my 18th I was left like many others thinking wtf when it came to AFDDs. As in what circuits to protect and if one why not all etc and how to implement without having a massive cu. I know 2 module units have been available for a while but this is a one module wide unit combining AFDD/RCD & MCB. Haven't read any further as to price and assume its single pole switching. Only just dropped in my inbox.

The idea behind my bathroom build was that it's a bit of a "retreat" from the rest of the place that's so badly done. Sort of gives me hope that one day the whole place will be like it. People do comment "...just the rest of the house to do now then!" For instance I've 4 (was 6) different ground floor levels!

Did you buy a laser level? Have you figured how high each plinth is relative to one another yet? Could mean your front legs are different heights and your "50mm" packing at the rear corners varies one side to the other. Are the rear two corners, the up slope ones, of the frame going to be affixed to the concrete plinth in any way? Don't think that's been discussed yet? I presume you'll be making your basic base frame with the shoes on then marking through the holes in the shoes before drilling? Might need to move the frame to one side for access.

Fischer resin is my goto stuff. Rawlplug resin second. Resin stud/fixing stud = same thing. Stud/studding is just threaded bar, sometimes called "all thread", "threaded rod" etc. You can buy ready cut resin studs or 1m lengths and cut your own as aforementioned. Push comes to shove you could open up the 8mm hole in the shoe with a normal, HSS drill bit from your drill set as long as they're half decent. If using 8mm stud you will have to use the shoe as a guide for the 4 holes using an 8mm, masonry bit. once the holes are drilled you will need to open them up to 10mm diameter. So there'll be 1mm all around the 8mm stud for the resin to fill. You may find you are off a bit and end up having to enlarge one or more holes in the shoe. If you do then paint the drilled metal with Screwfix 40801 (my goto is Toolstation 60070 but think you only have a Screwfix?) Cleaning the hole is v.important. I always use a puffer. Some people use a hoover and/or compressor. The thing is a puffer is a two way action. it blasts air in and sucks it out agitating loose stuff in the walls of the drilled hole. A compressor can push debris into the walls of the hole where it won't come out but isn't in fact that well "bonded". So the resin goes onto a "loose" particle. Ditto a hoover. The tiny bottle brush thing followed by puffer system is best. I have, once at home, cobbled together one of the resin gun nozzles on the end of the hoover hose to get in the hole and "suck" the debris, then switched the hose to the blow side of the vac, keep switching. Rough but I couldn't find the puffer at the time.

HANG ON! Until you get the Taurus shoe you don't know the hole size for sure i.e whether it will take an M10 fixing stud! You might have to stick with an M8 resin stud. Depending on which resin you get e.g Rawlplug, Fischer, DeWalt, No Nonsense etc then hole depth might vary a bit. For example:

Lift my floor boards up, where I'VE worked and it's all clean and vacuumed. No sawdust or other debris. Under my bath, behind the panel, is as neat as the bathroom itself.

And this is pretty much a Thunderbolt:

I YouTube'd "resin anchors": Think I said fill 50% earlier and this vid says 70%. Tbh I tend to overfill anyway. They wait until it's set to chip off the excess I wipe with a bit of card as the stud goes in. All much of a muchness.

You drill a hole and screw in the Thunderbolt with no resin required. or You drill a hole, clean it, pump in resin and push in a stud In both cases a spanner should do, to wind the Thunderbolt in or do thd nuts up on the stud. Aratchet with socket better.

If it's not stainless it'll rust. M8 stud 10mm masonry bit M10 stud 12mm masonry bit Stop whinging.

It used to be specialist stuff with a special applicator gun but now you can get it in tubes that fit in a standard mastic gun. https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-fis-vl-300-t-vinylester-resin-300ml/3613x#product_additional_details_container You drill your hole then puff out the debris (with a puffer). Half fill the hole with resin and push your stud in with a little twist. Wipe any excess off (bit of wood) if it oozes out of the hole. To protect the end of the stud from getting resin on you can wrap insulating tape around. Note though that the resin is a 2 part system contained within the tube. Only when it gets pushed up the special nozzle does it get mixed by a plastic screw. If you leave in the nozzle it will set rock solid. So you drill all your holes first and have your studs ready to go. You fill a hole, put a stud in, fill the next hole and put the stud in. Keep going until done. Unscrew the nozzle, its going to set inside and be useless. Screw the resin cap on if any left. Next time you go to use you need a new nozzle. Though you aim to keep yhd studs vertical as you put them in, if a bit pi$$ed, just wind two nuts on and tap into line with a hammer.

If you look at the pic of the galvanised Taurus shoe there's a hole drilled thru one face. I'd project the hole centre line around with a square and Sharpie pen. Drill thru the shoe and the wood so you've a through hole. Whack a bit of grease or zinc spray around the drilled hole in the shoe and fit a cross bolt/stud. Might be worth getting the shoes first as you might be able to get M10 studding in there. Stainless steel stud is easy enough to cut with a decent full size hacksaw + decent blade. Best is 115mm grinder and 1mm slitting disc. Finish off with a file or flap disc in the grinder.