Onoff

Kick the towel around the floor is what we do when finished showering then straight in for washing. UFH helps dry the floor quicker as does good extract.

"A true Wetroom install should be OK to use WITHOUT EVER TILING IT, remember that and you’ll be fine. ?" Said @Nickfromwales 07 Jan 2020

Or there's my epic thread if you've nothing better to do. If you can stick with it I do end up with a tanked wet room corner with tiled sloping floor, cast to falls and a Geberit wall drain! ?

Whatever wall and floor substrate you use has to be "tanked". That is a waterproof liquid tanking membrane applied in two or more coats with flexible reinforcing tape at the wall/floor junctions, corners etc. This will give you an idea: You also need to pay careful attention to your drain detail. @AnonymousBosch on here is just starting his.

Trying to print a new fridge handle we drew up between us: VID-20200113-WA0004.mp4

Very Will Rogers Park! ?

You mean a rest bend. Not the height to do so in the loft.

The shower isn't used now, like at all since we've had the downstairs one up and running. The basin in there is though regularly used. That white waste exits the soffit separately and doesn't connect to this stack.

This was it originally:

It did originally, but that got in the way of doing other new pipes etc.

I'll measure the drain angles later. Will also try another synchronised flush with downstairs.

I think it's backing up again. Would a duff AAV in the loft cause a problem?

Been thinking about this all day: Scary - Chilli chocolate Posh - Prosecco (possibly Lambrini as she's from Essex). Ginger - Irn-Bru Sporty - Lucozade

Yes, I bought some 20mm galvanised couplers from CEF. Much thicker steel that the ones from Screwfix. Much more expensive though!

Weird, pretty common in this part of Kent.

Sounds better than "tastes like a burnt switch" ?

I liked the dark haired one.

Check out the test of real WAGOs vs the counterfeit ones on YouTube!

You could but WAGOs are a constant force connector and deemed maintenance free pretty much. Fit and forget even if inaccessible later on. With a terminal strip you have screws that WILL loosen over time and need periodic checking.

Do they do a carrier you can screw down for them like the 222s? Mate gave me a box of 221s I haven't even used yet and I've continued buying 222s. Fear of new fangled things! ?

Not so easy though imo if it's twin and earth and the cores are a bit short to twist them out.

I'd be putting as many of those WAGOs tucked right down the bottom at the back, maybe a couple of rows. Cut the wires back to such length that it keeps the WAGOs in place.

I've a Part P certificate. EAL I think was my course. They mean jack schidt unless you join a scheme.

47mm back box for a start. Only have 10mm of sheath poking into the box through the grommets or what looks like grommet strip in this case. It'll look better when the wires are trimmed back. Especially the cpcs, way too long. Sure this is just for testing purposes then it'll get tidied. Just a case of being methodical.

My best Megger meter was £800 at the time. I bought it unused off a mate where his firm folded with the governors disappearing into the night and he was left with all his supplied tools. He walked straight into another job so sold the tools on. The mad thing is he has pretty much zero electrical knowledge and was employed as a general maintenance man with a van and the meter was still boxed up. I gave him £130 from memory. It only does RCDs and earth loop impedance though. My insulation tester, again Megger is stand alone.