Onoff

Microlight?

Having a bit of time to kill I'm looking to resurrect my plan to put some storage space in the currently truss raftered roof. Just found my old sketches and re-did the CAD. Trusses are made out of nom. 70x35 timbers. There's a 178 x 102 RSJ spanning the front opening top of which is 80mm lower than the u'side of the trusses. Construction is 4" Celcon blocks with pillars. Gable end is 4" Celcon carried on up to the peak (some pillars on that wall too that I should add. The end where the trusses aren't shown is a hip end. One "plan" is to span some deep (thus expensive) timbers across and sister them to the trusses. Then build up a frame inside and cut out the trusses to give a clear storage area. Another option was to install a new steel, front to back from the middle of that RSJ and support it on a post at the gable end. Ideally I don't want any other vertical posts along it's length to open car doors into etc. Or maybe steel goal posts tucked tight to the side walls, again with a central steel. Whatever option it'll be without taking the existing roof felt & tiles off. Any thoughts, pointers? Getting an SE in, not going to happen!

As long as the partition is strong enough no issues putting a cistern in there as in a good quality wc frame like Geberit. All access once in is through the flush plate at the front. For sound deadening you can line the cavity with acoustic tiles, board the other side of the wall with Soundbloc etc. No issue with the socket. If really worried about a future leak affecting the electrics you could seal the back of the socket up easily enough.

No picture?

Every day, sort of marking your territory? My Mum used to get given rhubarb for years by an old Dutch neighbour. She remarked one day how it was the best tasting rhubarb etc. He revealed his secret "Every evening I wander up the garden when it gets dark and..." ?

Can't you just wee on the compost to add nitrogen?

On my recommendation a mate used Bedec Barn Paint on his previously painted fence and gate. He wasn't impressed as despite keying the surface it didn't seem to take. We tried it here too on a previously wood stained / pu varnished door. It covered OK but seems easy to scuff and chip. On new or previously untreated wood though it's brilliant imho.

The thing is with compost heating / bio gas, is none of us really have to. Dead common in Nepal at least on the gas front. You ideally need a couple buffalo.

I thought he and the film crew shat in a tin?

It's now a completely dead grinder, it is no more, it has ceased to be. Post mortem tomorrow. Battery is charging now though.

We produce a fair bit of waste from grass cuttings, hedge trimming, leaves etc. I've thought of a big insulated pit with a coil in there for some DHW. Maybe some gas take off too.....

Not a lot, honest!

Whoops... The Rolson grinder running on the Makita 18V Li-ion clone battery started to smoke. It still runs but much slower. ? The Makita Li-ion clone battery that was on the grinder as the time seems to run the Makita impact driver and the drill OK, but put it on the charger and after a few seconds you get a flashing green LED which means the battery is fooked I believe? Only hope is when it runs down on the proper Makita tool it might take a charge again. Any ideas why this is happening? Cheers

It is a slider. No thread per se on here. It's just a frame I drew up and paid to have fab'd up and galvanised by my long term fabricator. I'd do it different next time as the upturned channel is a magnet for leaves and beech nuts. Think it was around £250. Sliding gate kit came from Easy Gates another £500. Posts were freebie scrap. Rails from Barrier Components in Thurrock. Never really tallied the cost. Here's a Flickr link, only 346 photos to wade through! ? https://flic.kr/s/aHsjYQgVgE Still not finished btw!

Bedec satin black barn paint on my gate 6 years now. 3 coats on new, reject scaffold boards. Even the 1st coat covered like magic. Then: Just now (after a wash for the photoshoot, bird sh!t really shows up on black ?): Before Bedec I was a Sadolin man. Always thought it took too long to dry. With Bedec you can get 3 coats on in a day and it's water based.

Just looked at your link. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder I think they say. Looks like it's crying out for a rub down and stain. Untreated...not for me.

Wood effect pvc?

Well, the Makita to Rolson 18V Adapter 3D printed project has exceeded expectations! Now there is we think an option to put female 1/4" spade connectors straight onto the spring connectors up inside these existing old tools to save taking them apart but that would be too easy! Instead I went for disassembly, clean and soldering new wires straight onto the motor and switch. Bit of a pita taking the grinder apart of course as to take the case apart you have to take the head off to get to 2 of the screws. Gave everything around the motor a blast of contact cleaner whilst I was in there: Some old HO7RNF gave up some wire for the new leads: All soldered on: Blue crimps a nice tight fit onto the fabricated battery connectors: First switch on video, SUCCESS! I'm using it now on the mower deck. It's got some grunt, not far off the corded one. 3Ah clone batteries. I'm being over cautious at the mo, just swapping them when I feel they might be slacking a bit: Circular saw is next up (best I sort the mower first or risk SWMBO's wrath)!

I can vouch for that.

@Temp, did you "iron" the top that radio box lid when you printed it? Looks do much smoother that what we're achieving. EDIT: You SPRAYED it! ?

Lovely finish. What material. Can't help thinking we're doing something wrong here. The print quality imo isn't ever what you'd ever call great. Ours is an Anycubic i3 Mega S. Can't help wondering if we'd have been better getting an Ender 3. Mate has one and his prints look so much better.

Well...my own fault...'cos I'm a slack git! In the old bath filled with citric acid solution I've left stuff since NOVEMBER. The solution has turned jet black. Some components left in there I think might be "losing mass" but aren't rusting as in red rusting. The components are covered in a hard, crystalline substance. So hard I have to scrape it off with a sharp knife. Anyone got any ideas what it is? Once you've scraped the lumps off you can, with a bit of pressure crumble them but it's still bloody hard to do. This is one of the mower blades: Also any ideas of a solution (as in liquid) that might get rid of it quicker than mechanically scraping etc. Cheers

Don't you mean shuttered?

What else are you going to do? ?

Not screwed on or wired but this is the finished, common, Makita To Marksman/Champion 18V Adapter. Turned out rather well I think: