Onoff

1) I've used a lump of steel bar about 2" x 1/2" and a club hammer to beat the pir down in 1/2" strips. or 2) Cut 3" wide strips of 6mm ply. Pin to top of 3x2. 1mm won't make a difference. or 3) You could.....just lop off 5mm slivers of 3x2 on the chop saw and use them. (A bit flimsier instead of ripping with the grain on a table saw). Unscrew, the low, 3×2 timber. Insert the packs perpendicular to and under the 3x2. Once in place fine. or 4) Buy 5mm plastic packs. Unscrew, the low, 3×2 timber. Insert the packs perpendicular to and under the 3x2. https://www.screwfix.com/p/broadfix-plastic-shims-large-101-x-5-x-43mm-200-pack/95031 If you can stretch to it you won't look back from buying an assorted shim kit like this. Invaluable for "shed" building etc. Would be enough in this assortment and then some. https://www.toolstation.com/broadfix-u-shims-kit/p52385 With 3) & 4) place the packs about every 200mm making sure corners are well supported. Fill any gaps later with silicone or whatever's going.

It's fine. It's 500mu thick which is 0.5mm thick. & so is this: https://www.screwfix.com/p/capital-valley-plastics-ltd-damp-proof-course-black-30m-x-150mm/78665#product_additional_details_container

DPM - damp proof membrane, big (blue in my case) sheet that went under your concrete. DPC - damp proof course. Comes in roll 6" wide or more. Likely a thicker gauge than dpm. This is the stuff I meant. You can get a plastic, embossed type or a thicker rubber type. It should bend OK. If you're capping over it with timber you could equally use strips of the thinner DPM under your slab. Ffs you could use rubble bags cut up! Tbh though a dpc is a dpm. "Course" just meaning it is incorporated in a wall. Traditionally this was slate, pitch etc. No the suggestion isn't a big sheet over the whole lot!

Is it the bell end that's the main problem?

As ever, without a sketch its hard to visualise but you could cover the OSB edge AND the vertical side of the 3x2 frame with a sacrificial strip of softwood treated against the elements. Or a strip of aluminium, upvc cladding etc. Is it / will it be possible to remove the board cladding the bottom of the cabin? Thinking to maybe staple on a wrap of DPC (damp proof course, available in rolls very cheaply), so it sits up under the bottom board and comes down over the OSB edge and 3×2. Your "sacrificial" strip of treated softwood goes over that. Not shown, the strip of sacrificial softwood. Shown (dashed), the DPC up behind the bottom board coming down over the OSB edge. (Excuse sketches, hungover). Maybe you could get the DPC up in the groove of the bottom board. I don't know if you're intending putting OSB over the whole deck? I would be doing so but just where the cabin sits. I'd also leave a gap where the walkway is so it doesn't butt tight up to the cabin or it'll be a Mecca for rot! That bottom cladding board, on the walkway side will suffer from rain hitting the deck and splashing up at least 6". I'd treat it with black bitumen paint or similar periodically. Has this cabin got a floor with it? How are you going to stop the pir dropping or will it just sit on the base frame you've already built? As ever, many ways to skin this (next door's) cat!

DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME! Wanting to blast the mower gearbox (other thread) I'd run out of blast medium. Someone mentioned soda crystal for blasting aluminium on another forum and that I should look up "pop bottle soda blaster". Appetite wetted I went digging for parts. After an ill fated attempt using copper tap connectors I found some heavy wall chromed steel tube. Noted that on the cheap blow gun I have the end screws out and a standard compressor fitting screws in: The compressor fitting is a pretty tight fit: I CAD'd up a 2 piece detail to encompass the pipe/compressor fitting gun: The lid of the bottle gets screwed down through the top half into the lower half and sandwiches the pipe assembly: The nearly finished article: Will it work, who knows? Think the barrel calibre might be a bit big and I'll use grit like there's no tomorrow. Also a barrel blockage could see the barrel coming off at speed!

I've painted OSB3 with No Nonsense wood treatment a few times now. Pretty sure it affects whatever "glue" holds the OSB together and makes it more susceptible to blowing at the edges. https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-wood-treatment-dark-brown-5ltr/23266

ABS printing is proving as unsuccessful as it has been up until now! I'm wondering if the extract fan position is wrong and too high up, as in taking heat away from the print area? On the test cubes above X is the face you see as you open the door. It's pretty good imo. Y is the real screw up face. It looks like the layers have been affected by "drag" whilst being put down. I'm betting that's the front to back air flow caused by the fan. Z should be "flatter" but it's not. The laying down of material is obviously helped by gravity but there appears to have been some slight "lifting". Again, betting caused by the fan. One chap I've read has a similar 120mm fan to this but lower down in one of the corners, not sure if it's on the back or side of the enclosure..We're limited with the enclosure sat on a desk as it is at the mo. Can't vent left or right or low down to the rear.I might quickly knock up a ply "chimney" to go on the back wall of the case. The idea being that "damaging" heat from around the electronics and psu will be drawn in at the base through the "fireplace". Above the bed will stay nice and warm. Excuse the dog rough sketch this morning! Hopefully it'll drag in any smell too.Mind you, no discernible smell last night whatsoever, fan on & using Steadytech ABS Pro.

I just searched "staircase" on Gumtree putting in "Lincolnshire" as the area. Came up with things like this: Loft ladder for £40 in Huntington: https://www.gumtree.com/p/for-sale/pine-stairs-loft-ladder-staircase-used/1373504498? & Free metal staircase: https://www.gumtree.com/p/for-sale/fire-escape-staircase/1373281482? Htf Worcester is Lincolnshire, but if you have transport and a couple of mates freebies like this can be great. I find with Gumtree that "stair case" and "staircase" brings up different results. Always worth a look though.

@H F reviewed his a while back:

Gumtree?

How about a bfo stainless "washer" with an outside diameter of what you want to cover the bodge? Starrett one? Polishing to mirror finish would be a git. Or a chrome plated brass tap base ring e.g: https://www.bathroomspareparts.co.uk/tap-shrouds--base-rings-2192-c.asp

As I've run out of blast medium here I asked and was quoted locally, £50 to soda blast his piddly little gearbox. FFS! So I approached the shot blasting and painting outfit that the first company I worked for in 1983 used to used to paint our machines. Chap down there will do me a 25kg bag of crushed glass shot shotblast media for £20. I'm going to take 2. Should have thought of them first! Off topic I know but back in 2016 I had them shot blast, zinc flame spray and 2 pack paint the astronomy pier I designed and built for my brother:

A near miss was enough for me:

Another doth hold that crown Sire! (No it's not me!)

Your definition and mine of expensive is different! ?

I'd like a NAS, keep looking out for a s'hand Synology one. Missed out big time when my son's mate's uni was selling them off. £20 per TB in a NAS ffs and pulled HDDS at £10/TB . "Oh, did you want one?" said dozy lad when they were all gone!

If you want to get a bit more technical doesn't take long to knock up a jig to route slots into your stringers;

PVC cable sheaths incorporate a "placticiser" to make them "plastic", aka flexible, bendy. As I understand it it's a leaching of of this placticiser that reacts badly with eps. Rigid pvc pipe lacks the plasticizer. Ergo you're OK. Put another way, you can place pvc cables in pvc trunking, within eps as the trunking is unplacticised.

I meant a sketch of the planned build up. Remind me, what sits on top of this frame:

Do a sketch?

If it's solvent weld pipe then it's no big deal tbh. Expose the pipe, clean it and solvent weld a curved sliver of the same pipe onto it.

Got the UFH going too then?

Copied from another forum: "Made a pop bottle soda blaster as per one of those You Tube videos. Bought a 25kg bag of animal food grade soda ( sodium bicarbonate ) from the local farm supply to see if it works Works like a dream save for the tendency of the soda to cake, even with a water filter on the air line. Have not bothered to play with blast pressures, my set up is at 120 psi for the air tools. Animal feed grade is a little coarser grained than the food grade you buy at the supermarket but not as large as the blast grade from a tool supply. OTOH it was about 50¢ / kg Totally by accident I used a bent shaft air duster , cause I had a box full of them bought cheap at a clearing auction. The bent bit is good as it stops the bottle rotating around the duster shaft and I use a little ( lot ) of hot glue as well to seal it off. After that it was a case of trial & error The feed hole is a bit bigger and I am now using a flavoured milk bottle as the wider mouth makes easier to fill. The bottle pressurizes a little so when you want to stop you have to turn it upside down or you blow 1/2 the contents out . And because of the same thing, when the soda cakes & stops flowing a quick flick of the trigger will have it cleared . Just take a bit of getting used to . Don't know how it would go on wood but really good on plastic and soft metals but needs a dip in boiling water to clean it out and so I found, a wipe down with slightly acid ( dilute vinegar ) solution if you want to paint over it or the paint does not take. The stock feed soda also cakes really badly so I seive an ice cream containers worth which is kept sealed so I have some ready to use when needed. IT has saved me a fortune in cans of carb cleaner & degreaser . The landlord bought a blasting kit and it will not work with anything other than the expensive blast grade as it clogs badly. The gravity spray gun type set up works beautifully".

I preferred Only Girl In The World tbh. Mind S.O.S is quite catchy.