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Everything posted by Onoff
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The roofs, the windows and the solar PV array
Onoff commented on Thorfun's blog entry in West Sussex Forever Home
kidding... -
The roofs, the windows and the solar PV array
Onoff commented on Thorfun's blog entry in West Sussex Forever Home
I don't think you've got enough PV ! Seriously that looks cracking, very envious. How much PV is that and how's it utilised? -
Does this help? The reveals were lined with 5/8" chipboard. The inner block leaf has 1" tile battens overboarded with hardboard then wood chip paper. Then that's papered over with the purple.
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You mean stick it with Illbruck 330?
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40mm Marmox boards turned up: Had hoped I could use "MAK2CHAMP" hybrid! Not enough depth so it'll have to be the cheapo Nu-Tool mains saw...when it stops raining: Really not sure on how wide to cut them. Tempted to just go 170mm all round "for now". Later, (my later😂), when the battening marked X comes off, the iwi can oversail these reveal bits. As I don't yet know exactly what I'm going to do with regards to iwi then probably best I think to stick to 170mm all round. Up top its again just 170mm to the edge of the lintel:
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The roofs, the windows and the solar PV array
Onoff commented on Thorfun's blog entry in West Sussex Forever Home
You're kidding? -
Just chuck the end ones in first then infill between against a string line.
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The roofs, the windows and the solar PV array
Onoff commented on Thorfun's blog entry in West Sussex Forever Home
How are you going to mow that roof? -
As pir usual then.
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Wot I said 👍 Worst you'll have to do is pick foam out of the sides and do a little repointing. Leave the top rough as a key for the final mortar. I might even prime with SBR as you go whenyou lay them for added bite.
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I reckon that I could install MVHR in the future here without too much fuss. The original bungalow has 4x2 celing joists. The dormer is built on top. The bottom of the dormer floor joist sit way above the top of the original ceiling joists. The dormer is basically a frame that sits on padstones on the walls. This is from when I gutted the downstairs bathroom (in Oct 2012 apparently). The downstairs wall plate / ceiling joists are just above the red bricks. The dormer consists of a circas 9x6 frame sat on pad stones at the corners and in the middle. Padstone on the left, 9x6 running left to right (with the junction boxes tacked on). There's the centre pad stone just above that bit of corner mesh leaning against the wall. There is mind an RSJ further in running left / right sort of mid dormer too. I reckon then I could run MVHR ducts in the gap. I would of course have to bring everything within a thermal envelope which is the mission!
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Instastik is made by Dow? Yeah I know, I got carried away and when my gun seized with intumescent foam in and went and borrowed that Everbuild stuff off of my nephew in a hurry to fill the gaps. To date I've used this Soudafoam Low Expansion to stick eps to brick & block. Just a plant spray of water on both surfaces then wedge / weight down until set. Was going to use this to fit the boards (which should now be here today). ? I was considering Illbruck FM330 Pro Foam Air Seal. Tbh I'm not digging this lot out now though. Running round with the IR thermometer and the temperature is pretty constant around the frame now. EDIT: I mean really, should I dig it out?
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I just wish I'd bough another couple of Bernstein pans when I got the first. Paid about £130 for it. Not anymore! :(
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I've one Bernstein NT2038 pan and seat and it's spot on.
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425mm from floor to top of seat aka bit your ar5e hits?
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Bog standard?
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Pictures please!
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@Nickfromwales cutting this Marmox board...old circular saw like I used on the Aqua Panel? Then"sticking" it and sealing joins, I didn't splash out on the Marmox stuff, figured one if the generic "no nails sticks like a grabby thing" or EBT will do?
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That link that @Nickfromwales put up, this is the connector. The back of the close coupled pan goes into the 83mm dia hole - it's a stretchy rubber connection. Aided by a bit of silicone grease to lube things up. You then stretch the concertina bit, dog leg it a bit and push the 112mm dia into the grey 110mm pipe. The "flutes" press against the inside of the grey pipe wher the internal diameter is less than 110mm. Quick and easy for most people If it were me I'd do it solvent weld probably but then I dont do quick or easy!
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You can do all sorts of "cranking". Could you turn the pan through 90deg so it in the same wall as the grey pipe? This is my mocking up for a mates wall hung pan: Obviously the brown 110mm can be cut way down: Then his actual install: A lot of the stuff goes from nom 90mm to 110mm. This is mine:
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8? & the rest!
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That's 3 600×1250 Marmox Multiboard Backing Boards ordered, being delivered tomorrow. Could have picked up from Tile Experience in Croydon but stumped up for the £13 delivery. Thinking to cut it to 170mm wide for now to go from the upvc frame to the edge of the inner leaf. Later when I remove the battens and hardboard, the iwi can go over that. @Nickfromwales, surely I do the top piece first then the sides? Thus the sides keep the top up. I'll have to anyway do the soffit and sill in two pieces as nom 1450mm long. I was just going to stick the cut boards on with Soudal Low Expansion foam and brace between whilst it sets. I'll screw it on later. What's the crack with making some attempt at air tightness? I've got some radon tape but don't know if it'll stick to foam... I was debating sticking a dpm all round the reveal before the Multiboard goes on. That would really be reliant on the screws.
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8 of you were there, in one shoe box?
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As I said the lower Ah battery can over discharge though.
