Onoff

@Nickfromwales, what's the score then with using this Illbruck FM330 to stick the Marmox boards on? I was thinking: - Dry fit the boards and masking tape the upvc frame. - Measure and cut some batten cross braces to wedge the boards into position - Water spray both surfaces Then the main one: - Foam the 4 edges of each board will meet the wall and some lines in between at say 300mm centres? Aiming to go soffit, sill then sides. I'll shim the battens as required to tweak things plumb. When done, sharp blade to cut through any foam and the masking tape. On the assumption this foam is airtight I won't need a membrane around the reveal I'm thinking?

You'll be going all rcbo I trust?

Not wet, wet, just where I'd foamed a layer and let set then sprayed with water and foamed again I think.

Well it's been black like on a frying pan the ones I've done. This one I just rescued had a shiny steel shaft with no apparent coating.

Tbh I like doing them. Sometimes they're a goner if the central shaft is PTFE coated and it's worn through though. This one's back together, silicone greased up and working a treat.

Lost a couple of fax machines years ago after a storm (TN-S system). Same street where in another house up the road I had "blue lightning" come out horizontal from the socket during a massive electrical storm. Scared the sh!t out of me. I had the ring main fuse in my pocket and the DP main switch was off. Earth was the only path. Saying that it was all run in old imperial steel conduit. It happened!

Sorry, wasn't trying to be cocky using the acronym. More here: https://www.electrium.co.uk/about/news/5-things-you-need-to-know-about-amendment-2-18th-edition

Either direction is movement! Right, the Illbruck can says spray with water not PVA. Just dug the old foam out and it was still wet behind it where I'd sprayed before. PVA would have stayed wet. Imvho! Kind chap that I am I gave the new gun to the guy who's gun I borrowed on the quick. Just had to strip and rebuild his old gun here! I'm going in!

Laying the blame for redoing this squarely at the feet of @Nickfromwales & @Russell griffiths 😉

EDIT: I meant carbon MONOXIDE alarm...

Amazing service from the Fixings Warehouse down in Charing near Ashford. Ordered the Illbruck FM330 at 8 this morning. Delivered at 1.30pm. That with the pita the M20 is at the mo. Really pleasant delivery driver rang me. I was all "Erm...supposed to be tomorrow?" "Well we aim to please Sir!" Appreciate such prompt delivery might not always be convenient and they were probably going that way with the van anyway but it's worked for me today.

More than a few jealous folk on here with that I can tell you. A proper little retreat! All year round too once you get that stove going. Really like that. Do you have "power" of any sort out there? Maybe look at a solar charged battery set up for a bit of light / LED reading lamp. On a serious note you might want to add a CO2 alarm in there. God forbid you doze off and the stove leaks. I might be going a bit OTT with that idea but I would.

Looks great!

You might think of AFDD ( Arc fault detection devices ) too along with surge protection as that's now in the second amendment and required I think next year?

So my moistening everything with plain water in a plant sprayer all these years has been wrong? Surely if I'm dampening with PVA and there's any risk of the substrate becoming damp it'll re hydrate the PVA?

In some respects in seems a bit mad going to these lengths with this and the other window at the front. Ideally we want to take them out and fit floor to ceiling windows. Probably a no no given the front elevatiom but... If it were up to me I'd have moved them inboard anyway. She say no ☹️

4 cans of Illbruck FM330 ordered.

SF also have £40 off the kit with the DTD156Z impact driver. Same drill and batteries as the above deal then in effect £70 for the impact driver which is what one would be elsewhere. https://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-dlx2336st-18v-5-0ah-li-ion-lxt-cordless-twin-pack/914JJ?kpid=914JJ&ds_kid=92700055256569560&ds_rl=1244066&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_pXso7CB9wIVB-rtCh2Y2Ai8EAsYASABEgI48fD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

They're still going strong. I just received a delivery from them. I've a half finished (no surprises there 😂) mini drum synth sitting here and a second one to build.

This is where I get confused! 😂 You say "way more rigid" the blurb says it retains a degree of expansion other foams don't to cope with building movement and thus not crack over time. @Russell griffiths said Instastik to put the boards up and Illbruck to do the sealing. You're saying Illbruck (for both?) Yet I've only ever used Sodafoam Low Expansion for sticking things, mainly EPS to brick and block as per Jeremy and other's advice. Many ways to skin this cat I guess.

For some reason I thought it would be cement board on one side only of the insulation on the Marmox boards. Quite pleased it's both sides. I reckon the Soufafoam Low Expansion would stick to it. It was @Jeremy Harris put me onto the stuff.

I cut into 200mm strips with the same old circular saw I used for 12.5mm Aqua Panel. Just clamped a board on it. Then chopped to length on the Evolution Rage 255mm chop saw. Couldn't be bothered changing to the diamond blade. Only thing is with the 40mm Marmox, once plastered there'll only be about 10mm of frame showing at the sides. About 15mm at the top and maybe 20mm at the sill assuming I get a black ash effect uPVC sill later.

Soffit wasn't pi$$ed. The Marmox was catching a nail on the hardboard! 😂 All the bits cut. Yet to stick when I decide a) what to use, i.e Soudafoam Low Expansion or something else and b) whether to dig out the existing cheapo foam. Need to tweak the little infill bit on the sill at the end by the window. Mitred the soffit section:

This might help: SBR_Bonding_Agent_2016.pdf I said do it as you go as SBR dries really quick if a thin layer. The slurry should stay "wet".

Yep. My short term! 😂 Tbh I would happily live with walls stripped bare for a bit. Having a blank canvas is so much easier. Anyway, in between showers: Soffit is well on the pi$$: Laser level time to see what's "out" I suppose!