Triassic

Thanks everyone for the advice, they’ve gone back and are being replaced with the correct ones. look what’s just arrived!

I’ve just opened up a pack of roof battens and although they are treated, they have a white fungal growth on them. Can anyone identify it, Should I be worried? Would you use them or return them to the supplier?

Only buy the professional ladders, I find the DIY stuff to be rather flimsy in comparison.

Let us know the results, as I’m in the finalising my glazing and I also have lots of south facing glass.

The local Screwfix had WiFi repeater socket outlets on display last week. https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/switches-sockets/cat830530?switchessocketsproducttype=wi_fi_extender_socket

The other thing you need to consider is the route the various service pipes will take, look out for structural elements that can’t be drilled or notched.

I read it was the bottom and sides?

Wow, that’s expensive stuff, £280 for a 152mm x 75m roll.

The exterior membrane is in place, next I need to seal around the window appatures. Looking online there are a number of ways of doing this, with some suggesting specialist membranes. How did you do yours? Is there a right way of sealing around the window appature? Do you use special tape, or a combination of membrane and tape? I had this approach in mind.

That’s what I’m thinking, The TF company simply stopped the exterior breathable membrane at the top of the wall panels, the roof membrane finishes at the gutter level, so you have the soffit and facia without any membrane protection and open, thus allowing wind washing of the junction of the walls and roof.

i was wonderin if the breather membrane on the walls should be taken up under the soffit and tucked under the roofing membrane, so as to cover the exposed eaves timber?

I'm in final discussions with the window company and up pops a sales promo from them into my inbox. Triple glazed for the price of double. Anyone got any idea what the price difference is between double and triple glazing, as I clearly need to squeeze the window company some more, as there's been no mention of this in my negotiations so far!

Knowing what I know now, I would have probably saved my money and rather than a Sunamp bought something else.

I was thinking something more like this, where the soffit board is simple attached to the back of the rafter tails, thus reducing the boxyness of the soffit detail.

We’ve been looking a options for the barge boards and soffits and one option being considered is to fix the soffit board directly under the rafter, thus giving us a sloping soffit. Is there any reason why we shouldn’t go with this design?

It’s always worth checking ! The next question is what sort of sealer to use to fill gaps in wood?

Being an old hand, my floor cassette was installed correctly. It’s the expansion gaps in the OSB on the outside of each panel I’m pondering calking up, before fixing the flap of external membrane in place.

I have a small shredder similar to the ne above, I find its adequate for smaller amounts. As I live in a woodland area we tend to get loads of larger branches and the occasional tree coming down in winter, so hire a large Timberwolf every couple of years to deal with the deadwood stock pile. Farmers round here burn Hawthorne because of the thorns.

So the timber frame is up and I need to start my air tighness regime. So where do you start? Is a simple as making sure the house wrap membrane is neatly fastened down and the internal vapour membrane is complete? Would you, for example, fill any obvious holes in the timber frame and cork any gaps before fixing the exterior membrane down? Here’s a few examples.

All my first floor UFH pipes are in the ceiling spaces of the plant room below. Does anyone produce a top entry manifold, or am I going to have to loop every single pipe through 180 degrees to have them enter from the bottom? Photos of how you did it would help.

We have at least three windows open8ngs that are smaller than the drawings and one window has been eliminated due to a structural issue with a beam above it. The style has also changed from that shown on the architects drawings. Also the Bi-fold doors have been changed for lift and slide.

Thanks for all the pointers. You learn something new everyday, apparently the feature I have is called a step wall I’m thinking I’ll use the aluminium stepped flashing, no hidden valley as we have loads of trees around. I just need to work out the detailing around the render board finish that is to be applied to the step wall, as it will project from the wall around 50mm.

Thanks Craig, this is the sort of detail I needed. Now I have an idea of how the cover prices work and can easily measure and produce a drawing for each cover peice I need. Where would you get such items from and can you get them in any RAL colour to match the windows?

I've not got the windows yet, they are Rationel Ali-clad windows, no idea if they have grooves or not. The only detail I have is the brochure and anything on their web site? Most windows that link through the three storeys are fixed. The timber posts are structural and 100mm square.