joe90

I just need to work out how to block the external vents under the eaves?

Really?

This is why being a project manager on site at all times is best if you can and always make sure specifications are known to all and in writing. I was very lucky to have a brilliant builder but I still found a few little problems which i pounced on straight away. Things are a lot more difficult to put right afterwards. Hope it goes well from here on in.

Uh, your first contractor needs to fix!

Thats one reason I don’t like airtight membranes that are buried in the build. Thinking about it apart from door and window seals the only vulnerable bits are the osb lining the warm roof which was glued to death on construction (still visible to fix) and the wall to timber roof joint which is still just about visible. The reason being timber and blockwork expand and contract at different rates but it is foamed to death.

The only holes are ASHP pipes and these are sealed with silicone, the MVHR external terminals will be temporary sealed up. Question, do they pressurise the house or create a vacuum?, only asking as it will be easier to vaccuum the house and see draughts (if any) with my e cig inside the house! I think if I have any leaks it will be window or door seals which should be fairly easy to fix.

Who did this work?, if a contractor get him to fix it!

Is it possibly the case that the housing market has found its level after over inflated prices for years?

Your not videoing any cock up I make ?.

Ah, no, fully finished, wet plastered on blockwork (don’t like airtight membranes).

Yes engineered as @ProDave says above, not laminate (yuk), I fitted a real wood oak floor for a friend and he had a water leak, a big one and the floor exploded, expanded so much it ripped the fixings out and sounded like a shotgun going off according to my mate. Luckily it was covered by his house insurance and engineered wood was advised as a replacement which would have not “exploded” like the real wood.

Glad it ended well mate.

Yes I took a £100,000 hit on my old place but I needed the money to start. We bought a small house as an interim measure and we still have it and rent it out, if the build went over budget it was our contingency money (luckily didn’t need to sell it). I found it was larger houses that don’t sell so well as smaller first time houses. Why not start the build and leave it on the market, if it does not sell by first fix then you can decide to drop the price or mothball the new build.

@gravelld just the MVHR ducts and ASHP pipes to seal. Not thought how long they hang around, will call them in the morning and ask. I am off to buy an e cig in the morning ? thanks for the heads regarding time on site.

I have engineered (plywood) oak in the lounge (glued down)and it appears to transfer heat ok, you never feel the heat but the room is always about 21’.right through the winter.

Its not about what I need as building regs are so awful if I don’t pass them I am jumping off the roof head first!,!,, it’s about holding my head up on this forum ?, I think I have done well but Monday will tell. If I disappear from the forum you know why!

Yes mate, booked for 3pm next Monday, kettle on as always ?. I am on Ebay looking for cheap e cigs as above.

Because of our wider cavity the stainless ties are in the mortar for the min distance allowed (forgot what this was) so any small amount of coolness is dispersed. I had no indication of cold spots during this last winter.

I don’t have key holes, inside locks are handles. I don’t have the time or enthusiasm ? Good source Ha, good thought.

Interesting, the composite were sooo expensive I did some back of fag packet sums and the thermal bridge for the stainless ties I found was minimal so went with stainless.

I have just booked our air test for next Monday and wondered if anyone had any tips about finding any air leaks I may have? It would be good to have smoke/draught/leak detection on hand to find any leaks while they are here so I can rectify it before they leave and up my results.

I agree with all the above comments particularly insulation and airtightness. Like you I wanted a traditional looking build and in our case a “cottage”. Ours is traditional build, brick and block (I hate render) but with 200mm cavity full filled and 300 in the warm roof. Despite the roof being “I” beam construction I inserted false beam ends to make it look like an old roof would be. We have UFH with ASHP which is easy and cheap(ish) to instal. Our windows were hand made locally and are double glazed (but very near triple in u value and we are in a mild part of the country. Might not be everyone’s cup of tea but we are very pleased with the result.

I have just had my (very accommodating) building inspector round to let me know what I need to get my build signed off, he knew of my fight to get planning permission and health problems during the build. He listed the docs I need, electric, mvhr, unvented cylinder, gas, sap, air test, he did not comment on the large bath which I know has caused some people problems and the cloakroom door hung the wrong way round (supposed to open outward) but he said as the cloakroom was large it would not be a problem (and he knew I would only change it back once he had signed it off!!,) air test booked for next week and getting the docs sorted ?

Or seeing those logs, several!

Hi Mike, I designed our house but I have been a small time “builder” for a few years but mostly kitchen and bathrooms and a few loft conversions so understood the fundamentals. I got an “architect” just to put my pencil drawings on CAD and make the planning application as I don’t do CAD and I was told “round ere they don’t like emmets” (people from outside the area). Even though my drawings were very clear the architect made quite a few mistakes but eventually got it right. I am not a fan of architects as I have found a lot (not all) design what they want, not you the customer and ignore your budget. Architects can be good if you are not sure what you want and need suggestions but if you know what you want then an architectural technician is capable (and mostly cheaper) to put it on paper/CAD. if you posted your design/thoughts here you will get lots of comments/suggestions from people with experience.