joe90

frankly that does not add up in my mind. PIR is roughly twice as good as glass insulation but glass insulation fitted is only 40mm more than PIR!!! would be good to see some figures on that assumption? edit.... even if it was correct it does not work, excess heat is transferring to the plasterboard. That’s why you paid a professional, to get it right!!,! ?‍♂️

Is to dig a hole on your property next to their wall to establish the depth of their foundations, she cannot stop you and you can move on to the next step. also if their foundation “sticks out” as it should your side, and their guttering, facia etc is out from the wall the boundary (should) be at that point otherwise it’s trespassing. (Get that hole dug and get back to us ?).

If the boundary is their house wall their guttering and foundations are on your land surely. It’s amazing how some neighbours believe they have control over others land. You need to establish their foundation depth and whether you can have your foundations (or raft) at the same level to negate a party wall agreement. Dont be bullied!.

If your builder changed the spec without consultation before hand he is responsible and I would make him redo it at his expense. It’s just wrong!!! PIR and “fluffy stuff” have very different insulation values as you said.

It’s your build, don’t let “others” tell you what you want (unless they have a structural problem or financial implication). I find too many architects want you to build what they deem best!!!!!

Trust you......ADMIN!!!!,

No don’t, watch it to understand HOW NOT TO DO IT ?.have you considered “bungalow gobbling”, nice plot, crap house, still recover VAT when rebuilding, services, address etc etc already exists and you could live in it whilst applying fir planning (and going to appeal like I did!.

If timber you could route the slots as seen in a solid door blank and paint, is that copper or bronze?, need to source metal sheet but don’t know how you would treat the edges but could be bonded on with an appropriate adhesive. Handle you would have to source somewhere.

Sorry to hear your having such trouble. I know nothing of this but most sites have heras fencing and I have not heard of anyone needing a license . We had nothing (but in the sticks) and trouble with the enforcement officer because of a nasty neighbour but no talk of hoardings or fencing (but we did stick a “site“ notice on the gate).?

@Tony K find a picture of what you would like, then we will come up with suggestions how it can be made.

Have you decided on heating type?. I have a small ASHP for a moderate sized house, as mentioned before what about an air to air heat pump that will do cooling as well (during Scotland’s famous heat waves ?).

No, @ProDave built a solar array then realised he could make a shed out of the space under it ?.

Hi and welcome, I retired to self build mine ( I was a small time builder before) and still I learnt soo much from this forum and its members. Finding the plot is the hardest thing which can take forever (I married into mine ?) I think you have to decide what you want which can take an age, size, rooms, facilities, orientation etc. I changed my mind several times but had a rough design in my head for a few years anyway. The mantra on the forum is not location location location it’s insulate insulate insulate. You only buy it once but buy fuel forever. Read a few blogs, don’t be afraid to ask questions here, you will get feet on the ground good advise not sales pitch. Best of luck ?

Cylinder came with insulation under metal jacket, walls and ceiling are insulated!

Reminds me I never got round to fitting my alarm, but then again I can hear it every time I feed the chickens next to it. It’s on my to do list ?

I have an insulated tank and er indoors complains the airing cupboard is not warm enough ?‍♂️.

If you store hot water at 48’ like I and others do the losses are very small, means a bigger tank tho, Also your DHW tank can be considered a battery storing hot water from solar PV.

Yes, but you could plant on to a standard frame to make up the extra thickness of the door blank, just make sure it’s glued well ?.

It does not matter if your new tiles are more than 1” as long as it’s no more than 3”. Get a few of those tiles, put a bit of carpet under them (to mimic adhesive) and see if it feels too high walking through your front door ?

It was an OSB core with veneer either side, trimmed and oak plant on,s all round, mouldings glued and pinned on to replicate panels and painted (by the customer). It was an oversized Victorian front door I was replacing due to rot. Customer really pleased. Oh and heavy duty bearing hinges to cope with the weight. (Was a few years ago thinking about it ?).

I have made large front doors using blanks and plant on timber to resemble originals. Just first tinternet search https://www.doordeals.co.uk/products/external-doors/solid-external-doors/external-door-blank-(solid-core).aspx

And you won’t because you had (second time around)a roofer that knew what he was doing, I have done quite a few GRP roofs and never had one leak ?

Well as a DIY nut I would make my own, buy a heavy door blank and fix rusty steel/copper/aluminium /whatever and buy decent locks and hinges (emperors new clothes spring to mind).

I find if the subfloor is flat tile levelling systems (which I have never used) are not needed.

From your picture you have a depth by your slate threshold, draw a pic with dimensions.