joe90

Actually I think they are too busy unless a complaint is raised, with my planning fight the planners kept quoting next door as being “X” meters high, when they were out my builder and I went round with a very long piece of wood and measured it and it was about 1200mm higher than they had planning for and it had been completed many years ago, not that I minded it being that high but mine was still lower than theirs. (Another one over on the local planers 😎).

I prefer 400mm centres because I hate the thought of flex however i tend to over engineer’s things, my floors were engineered at 600mm centres but installed at 400mm.

Yes I guess it would, I do tend to overengineer things, you would end up 9mm thinner (shame I no longer have my workshop, I could knock those up for you 🤷‍♂️)

+1 for that, and blockboard (just need an edging strip)

Ah!, big house!

Sorry just re read it, why 7 extracts and 2 inputs.??. As @ProDave says above extract from wet/damp rooms and input to others so if you’re running 9 pipe runs it does not matter if they are extract or input (except where it meets the manifold. (This presumes you use flexible 70mm or similar pipe which i prefer anyway).

That all depends on orientation of the rooms etc, mine was compact and MVHR unit fairly central (in warm roof) &1 to no fans (except in the MVHR).

Sounds like it. My reading locally is 2.5m eaves and 4m ridge if more than 2m of a boundary but 2.5 overall if within 2m but more than 1m of the boundary. However one garden building supplier stated if closer than 2m but over 1m then the building within that 2m must not be over 2.5m (so ridge could be higher). @Marco keep that Email safe and crack on (I would).

And me!! 🤷‍♂️

It’s what I did using rockwall batts (200mm) as long as your brickie is good at keeping it clean (mine were) or consider blown beads.

+1 to make it habitable or replace in the short term, anything you do will be spotted by locals.

That’s a shame Yes I don’t like MDF fir structural. They will be. I would use 25mm battens on the three walls, make the shelf out of two sheets of 10mm ply held apart by 25mm battening, flush on the front but inside the other sides by the depth of the wall battens. Plant a solid front on it. Glue and screw to make solid and the shelf will slide on the battens for support and be totally hidden, the shelf will be chunky and solid, (and floating 🤷‍♂️) just saying!!! I will draw you a diagram if you wish!.

I insisted concrete rendering then wet plaster (old school I know), can’t stand dot and dab or hollow sounding walls that is difficult to fix things too.

I recently built a raised bed for my nephew but only one full sized railway sleeper high on its side. Joined the sleepers with angle iron and coach bolts in the corners and straight brackets on the straight join in the middle, worked well.

👍 Mine has had remarkably little shrinkage, after 4 years virtually no snagging required, a recent survey said exactly that so I wonder If brick/block/masonry shrinks that much at all relative to other methods. 🤷‍♂️

Well his name is “big Jimbo” 😉

No cat, and a dog I let out when required.

I built mine like yours and got a similar result and pretty chuffed with the outcome (no letter box or cat flap 🤷‍♂️).

110v or 240v? http://www.tumac.se/uk/t275.htm ???

You have to be tough, if the planners etc give you permission the neighbours will have to live with it. Just because people complain it does not mean their view is valid. It’s called NIMBY (not in my back yard). Crack on 👍

I disagree, I would tell them it’s THEIR cost.

+1 to all the above, sh;t job.

That I agree with .

That I doubt ! And you didn’t say that in your original post which is why we may have not understood quite what you meant.

Not difficult if the plans show where it should be with the move of the inspection cover and that’s what you asked them to do 🤷‍♂️