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joe90

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Everything posted by joe90

  1. joe90
    My take on this is you might as well go down the full 900mm with both, belt and braces đź‘Ť
  2. joe90
    Some people just hate others “getting on”.
  3. joe90
    No you are right, removing slates/hanging tiles is a nightmare, a ripper is the tool of choice. My builder used hooks when my build was slated and they are far better IMO, you just need to make sure they don’t rattle in the wind by hanging them correctly.
  4. joe90
    No I get it, it only has to wrap around the corner a little (20mm ?), if it’s code 4 lead (the thicker stuff it will just stay there without chasing ) it’s such a small area it will just stay there.
  5. joe90
    My go to plasterboard fixing is these for heavy objects. https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-hollow-wall-anchors-8-16mm-m5-x-52mm-10-pack/12229?tc=WC2&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgNanBhDUARIsAAeIcAsSGoxBqpjwAXBHZjMxEkuPPre-46O7eGNKmet-FhbDR4JKrVjAx24aAt_QEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
  6. joe90
    Yes, do you have a sewer close to connect too? If not then a treatment plant is you second option.
  7. joe90
    Another example of no consistency with building control.
  8. joe90
    If you have a small section of UPVC that you can use then yes that would look good, lead would be my second choice.
  9. joe90
    I would fold the upstand over double to make it stronger and stand up with no wall to support it but only about 25 mm high, this to direct any water into your guttering. I would wrap the flashing around the corner a little to stop damp being driven behind it.
  10. joe90
    Ah right, I would just turn up the last soaker to direct the water into the guttering.
  11. joe90
    The very reason I said use both hands.
  12. joe90
    If I understand it correctly I would stop the soakers and flashing at the wall end and treat the overhanging roof as a normal eaves detail, what’s the rest of the roof eaves like?
  13. joe90
    In about 20 years I have only had one shatter cutting a steel pipe, diamond blades won’t shatter.
  14. joe90
    Yes and ear defenders, those diamond discs “sing” loudly.
  15. joe90
    “Stand on something solid, no balancing act” (my comment from his previous thread).
  16. joe90
    Never with a 9” IMO
  17. joe90
    I bought a cheapie from screwfix, has soft start and never let me down, if your going to use it DIY rather than pro I would recommend it https://www.screwfix.com/p/mac-allister-msag2000-2000w-9-electric-angle-grinder-220-240v/522gf left to right otherwise it will grab and throw it out. I would opt for trigger in case it gets away from you.
  18. joe90
    I too ran pipes through walls for the same reason to stop congestion in doorways, drill hole and put short lengths of overflow pipe in then thread the UFH pipe through that, đź‘Ť
  19. joe90
    How is that OSB floor fixed? If screws can you not remove them and move the joist over a bit? How much too tight is the flue? If a small amount can you not move just one end the small amount required?
  20. joe90
    No, that’s normal for anywhere in England, driving knowledge in this country is appalling.
  21. joe90
    The biggest thing is the UVC which (depending on size) which will be heavy being full of water, the rest won’t be a problem but your SE will give a definitive answer.
  22. joe90
    Right, you have been told by me and others here that a tank of water makes no noise. I am no longer interested in this thread.
  23. joe90
    Actually I have no room for a buffer in my little cottage but no one is offering me a free heating system, if they did it’s a simple choice, find room or pay for something else.
  24. joe90
    Look @zoothorn your threads read like war and piece, I and others realise you have no room but you have been offered free a heating devise that requires a buffer so your choice is a simple one, you accept it and find room or refuse it, simples. !!! Stop stressing about technical things that are not relevant.
  25. joe90
    You keep saying huge but as @SteamyTea said earlier, what is huge? Have they given you dimensions or capacity (litres)?
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