Russdl

3 months since it was last attended to but it’s time to change the pre filter again, it’s fan noise that alerts me more than any diary considerations. When the fan speed automatically increases in the mornings and evenings it’s generally inaudible but as time goes by it starts to become noticeable. The pre-filter is collecting so much airborne dust! It’s also letting the tiny flies through, but I can see the route they are (involuntarily?) taking so I’ll endeavour to get that sealed up before the refit. (I ran the hoover over the centre section to see how thick the dust and dirt was).

I got them from my friendly local steel fabricator but I’m pretty sure they bought them in from a ‘C’ section joist manufacturer. Maybe from a company like this? https://albionsections.co.uk/c-section/

That would do it, or better still a timber ‘ladder’ shape of form work so you end up with serval separate blocks of sand/cement, 1 for each tile, then rain water could run around them and off the cill unhindered.

The still image from the video you posted above shows a mini concrete slab over the cill. You could do that and have the tiles resting on the concrete and then supported by pedestals as you move away from the cill.

Fabulous insight @sgt_woulds, sounds like you’ve had some interesting times, way too interesting on occasion!

Not sure I follow? I’m with @Conor pedestals would be a good way to go. If one or two sides of the patio are against the house, the remaining open sides could butt up to a dwarf wall or similar leaving no way in for them there rodents and leaving you with a patio at FFL and no issues with DPC

Fingers crossed that the AirLander makes it into production and ultimately zero emissions air travel comes to pass (probably not the easiest way to get to Oz though!) https://www.hybridairvehicles.com/news/overview/news/zeroavia-and-hav-sign-agreement-to-collaborate-on-zero-emission-airlander/

It’s very DIY’able Height of what floor? Internal floor? You can adjust the height of the pedestals from ‘not many mm’ to ‘quite a lot of mm’. You could probably cover the manhole with the tiles, hiding it completely, and lift the tiles when access is required. It takes seconds to lift and replace the tiles. For the cill you could make little mini slabs, the size of the pedestal foot, that sit on the cill and hold the front of the tile. Added bonus’s: Free draining round the perimeter of every tile. No grout to fail. No place for weeds to grow If you change your mind re shape/layout it’s very easy to rearrange.

@paro Have you considered a pedestal system for your large format tiles? You could put a French drain under the doors. I reckon that would solve all your issues.

As you’re with MBC I guess you’re going passive-ish? If you are (and you should, especially if you’re using MBC) don't put anything through the roof, even if the soil stack is effectively sealed it’ll be an unnecessary thermal bridge. As @Dunc says: That is the way to do it. That’s the way we did it. MBC will do what you ask, and do it well and the airtightness will be spot on, but if you’re trying to be ‘passive’ don’t have that tube going through the roof. Also, don’t put any ducting through the insulation if you can possibly avoid it (you can). Any large ducts through the insulation will degrade the insulation properties where the ducts are, and that’ll degrade the ‘passive’ aspect, the passive bit is worth fighting for, it pays dividends. There is always a better way so that you can keep everything inside the airtight layer, even if it may compromise a little bit of the interior space.

As above. As soon as outdoor temp exceeds desired indoor temp we shut all doors/windows and turn the MVHR down to its minimum setting. When the outdoor temp drops below indoor temp of an evening, we open all doors/windows and turn the MVHR up to max. Currently 33.7 degrees outside and 22.5 degrees inside. No active cooling but we do have external blinds which are game changers I reckon.

Well, I’m signed up and have my £25 bonus. Strange that there is no password to log in to ‘my account’ I guess yours is the same @JohnMo?

I should have used a Google search, BuildHub search didn’t find that. Thanks for the offer of a referral code but I’ve got one from my BiL so I’ll use that as he introduced me to this. At first glance I was pretty sceptical (who was going to pay £1/kWh!) and ignored it. After a closer look it seemed liked a good plan, as your experience shows, and decided I’ll give it a go.

If you were home. If the DHW cylinder sprung a leak why would it only loose 300L, wouldn’t the supply of water be endless until you isolated it? I reckon you are massively over thinking this, get a flood sensor (Shelly do one, I’m sure many others exist) If you spring a leak, unless it is some kind of catastrophic failure, then it’ll take a long time to empty that tank. A flood sensor will tell you the floor is getting wet whilst you’re miles away, you send the neighbours round to isolate the leaking component and continue your holiday. Small leak, dries relatively quickly, zero damage to the timber frame but the plasterboard may need some attention.