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redtop

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Everything posted by redtop

  1. redtop
    I have a similar one for calculating size of soakaway when you leave it to the end and cant get a digger in. Dig a big hole until knackered, leave it during pouring rain. If no water in bottom its big enough. Feel free to re use
  2. redtop
    Its bamboo, can be glued or floated. Anyhow ordered the glue so no one tell me ime wrong!
  3. redtop
    Good old fashioned bitumen paint, so long as you don't mind the finish look. Like 'proper' creosote, water based stuff ain't as good unless you really really prep the surface
  4. redtop
    My wife runs a powder coating business so gets shed loads of stuff galvanised. Havnt used the spray stuff but typically the steel has to be super clean for it to take properly otherwise it peels. They use acid baths to clean new steel and remove any impurities so old steel will be tough to clean for it to work properly.
  5. redtop
    Well my thought was, glued down Sticks it to the Substrate, floating doesn't and therefore introduces a bit of bounce. I already have a floating floor so it will never be solid like concrete, but floating on floating equals bounce squared. Well maybe not, but it would be bouncier than glueing.
  6. redtop
    so the chipboard is a floating floor (with 25mm pir below). No UFH. Do i need to go to the expense of flexible adhesive? The sika 54 is coming in at 800quid for 100m sq!
  7. redtop
    Half right, and I half screwed that bit up. Vapour Barrier in, but didn't bring it up roof lights so ended up insulating from inside. Not ideal...
  8. redtop
    Should add the OSB upstand was probably more like 300mm or even a bit more. Whole thing will be a green roof, eventually !
  9. redtop
  10. redtop
  11. redtop
    I didn't use a top osb, did use tissue backed high compression pir for flat roofs. It still squashes a bit if you tread on a corner, hence putting the timber frame all round
  12. redtop
    Outside looks better in the render lol. Just give up, hide your balls and save them for something more important. Like when deciding on the the size of the shed
  13. redtop
    I did sockets in wrong place. Should have known people would sit other side of the island. " couldn't you just add another couple of sockets'. This after plasterred and painted.
  14. redtop
    So I boarded around 150mm past the edge of the external wall. Then attached a wooden edging, they call it a ladder. Used 2 by 4 I think. Used this to have something to fasten facia to and also as edge support for insulation which would otherwise squash when walked on. We also had wood fibre insulation and also had one roof butting up to a 2nd floor wall. What I did was stop wood fibre around 200m short and then did last 200mm with PIR so it wouldnt track water up. I then fastens osb to this and then ran the epdm from flat roof up up onto osb. Then we had the vapour layer over woodfibre which also went over epdm. Batton, counter batton and then wood cladding. Cladding stops about 150mm short of epdm roof
  15. redtop
    Provided its equivalent and used in a way thats approved why do you care? If you wanted to be more specific then the price would have changed.
  16. redtop
    The way its worded so long as he gets to 0.2 he can use anything provided its suitable for the installation
  17. redtop
    Been in ours a year. Moved in same stage as you, didn't even have internal walls never mind plasterboard. Temp electrics, no heating, stairs, , nada. It was a cold winter! Anyway, we started paying council tax straight away, they couldn't give a monkeys what stage house is in, due to get BC sign of in next 4 weeks and then submit VAT reclaim. In England at least there may be rules, I don't know, but in practice no one cares and if they did you would be complete by the time anything was done. Best thing we did as we ended up swapping kitchen for lounge once we lived in it and saw how it worked as a house.
  18. redtop
    Well if it wasn't it was identical lol. I am sure thats the stuff
  19. redtop
    Cant remember lol, it was a heavy duty one and the primer helped it bond. Its classified for use in high humidity areas like swimming pools. So a few hundred quid, but certainly not the sort of sums you are talking about
  20. redtop
    We had firings, OSB, tissue insulation, epdm. Firings I got a chippy to cut standard timber on site, cost me 2 days labour
  21. redtop
    Yes, black jack primer and it seems to work just fine
  22. redtop
    It would depend on the value and complexity of the bid. But you have to recover the time and hence cost of bidding and not winning, whether thats in higher day rates or whatever. The cost needs to be recovered. Also if we were asked for s detailed breakdown for s smaller job then we would add this to the cost of the bid or not bid at all. Most decent trades have more work than they can handle so asking for something others don't might be quite reasonable, but also is declining to bid.
  23. redtop
    About what we paid. The biggest cost is the epdm, we had the fleece backed stuff that costs a lot more but is very heavy duty. I was happy with the end result
  24. redtop
    Yep what I did and does stiffen it up a lot, certainly more than enough for timber cladding
  25. redtop
    Our house has 140mm wood fibre and then battons, counter battons and wood cladding. Oh and a vapour layer on top of the wood fibre. Anywhoo I fitted all the wood fibre myself. Circular saw works but get clogged up every 2 mins so you spend longer clearing it than cutting. Hand saw works but is hard work but would be ok just for the rebates. I ended up cutting the outside facing bit with the circular saw and then finished with the hand saw. Seemed best combination. For the corners I used really long screws but tbh if you just fasten a batton along one edge of the Hardie board and then fasten the next one to that the corner should be solid enough. Well it was for wood cladding....
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