joth

What it does, it does extremely well and overall life is much more stable using it. It has a few niggles/ missing features that even really basic routers often support now, and for some reason they are incredibly slow / unwilling to address. Example: the built in speed test monitor never seems to work Example: it uses DHCP presented names for local DNS resolution fine, but for devices that don't supply a meaningful name, the "name alias" you set in the router does NOT work as it's DNS name. So I end up with more hard coded IP addresses that I had with my own hand rolled dnsmasq setup. Example: I bought it for wan1/2 failover, but connecting a second modem to wan 2 that's in a permanently failed state (e.g. an LTE modem with expired PAYG sim card) randomly causes wan 1 to spuriously fail too.

Unless you're talking carrier grade equipment, I think you'll find and "hardware" VPN is purely software VPN running on a dedicated box. (Intel CPUs have had some sort of cryto accelerator support for years) My unifi USG has a VPN client built in, but I'd struggle to call it a Hardware VPN with a straight face.

I've been playing around with the Ecodan smart grid inputs, mostly to try and effect a "boost" and "set back" UVC temperature for times of cheap (free PV) / expensive electricity. Curious if anyone else has looked at this? So far it seems the "Switch-on recommendation" and "Switch-on command" are pretty similar in effect, not quite sure why I need both. But more problematic, the Switch-off command. (IN11 open, IN12 shorted) has the strange behaviour of triggering all 3 pumps (primary + 2 zones) to run constantly, even though the heat pump itself is off. This seems completely counter to expectations: if the electricity is currently very expensive, why would anyone want all three pumps running?? I've already disabled the "Freeze stat" mode and we don't have any secondary heat source (booster / boiler) so it's not circulating "just in case" for any of those reasons. TBH the thought even crossed my mind to put a relay on the entire FTC6 power supply and hard shut it off at times I don't want it wasting power.. Just don't want the risk that it might not like being power cycled frequently (especially if powered off in the middle of operation). (And, the MELcloud nonsense does bleat a lot of it looses connectivity). Anyone got a direct support line to Mitsubishi that might shine some light on the intended behaviour and thinking of these modes? The MIs on it are fairly thin on details. https://library.mitsubishielectric.co.uk/pdf/book/Ecodan_FTC6_PAC-IF071-3B-E_Installation_Manual_BH79D843H02

I ordered this one https://www.shopclima.it/en/panasonic-paw-fc-d15-aquarea-compact-fan-coil-with-left-side-connection-1-5-kw.html It's clearly just a systemair unit: https://shop.systemair.com/en/scc202plg2/p402066 (haven't worked out exactly which model number) - they didn't even bother reprinting the MI with Panasonic branding, says Systemair all over it @Nickfromwales Dimensions (LxHxD mm) 570x220x430

Where can you buy a complete a/c unit for €289 inc VAT & delivery?

@Ommm you've thought through it well and not a lot for me to add! We installed it in March and it's now April (and a cold one at that) so I honestly can't say I can give any real world feedback on its cooling performance. For us it was a choice between fan coil or nothing, and for the price (and apparent effort required) the fan coil was a no brainer. I'm sure a dedicated split air to air unit would outperform it and peak power, and is a better choice if you're doing an isolated retrofit and not doing ASHP already. It's only for a few days a year, and when we have very cheap electricity from PV, so I didn't worry so much about efficiency as for the heating, but yeah I would expect the split unit to outperform it as less losses in pipework (that said, for us the pipework "losses" are in effect cooling the rest of the house so not all bad)

South Herts. Anywhere outside the M25 but 20-odd minute train ride to zone 1 is probably on a similar COVID price surge. Stamp duty holiday has added some extra fuel to the market too (although obviously not directly applicable to these specific properties)

Our neighbours (same town) are asking 1.3M for a 120m2 60s property that has not been updated in several decades (and no granted PP), so I think @puntloos is low-balling with 1M for the rebuilt value Caveat: "asking" does not equate to "successfully fetching", but it's a guide

nit: I think your question is about value to a property developer, not a builder. The former buys lands, commissions & builds house to resell. The latter just builds for money. One option is to take all the guesswork out - give one of the estate agents in town a ring and get a valuation. Savills seem to do a lot of trade with developers.

Ah OK fair point - I was trying to think about implementing all the re-emptive adjustments the FTC makes (as it knows in advance what primary flow temp is about to hit the mixing valve). Great to hear the PID works well, I may yet employ it for the electric underfloor heating mats. Anyway, I very much take Nick's point too that all the Loxone talk (and cloud-connected tanks) is well off topic here and that was my main point: Loxone is not needed to get this working really nicely ?

I think 3 point means it supports three commands: "Turn CW, Turn CCW, Stop" It's driven from the FTC6 controller: see OUT5, page 20. Our FTC6 has 7 thermistors, a pair for flow & return on each of zone 1, zone2, and primary loop, plus one in the UVC, so has full visibility of everything it needs. I really wouldn't enjoy driving this from loxone, it's too stateful and too much risk of oscillations. For example, before turning on zone 2 only, it preloads the valve to be fully open and then uses the primary flow temp to set the UFH temp, but before opening the other zone, it first closes down the UFH mixing valve completely, then cranks up the primary temp to the one requested for the fan coil (e.g. 40ºC) then slowly opens back up the mixing valve a little at a time, sensing the UFH flow temp and adjusting as needed. Programming 5+ minute sequences like that would be a PITA in the loxone flowchart editor. (The valve has a 2min rotation time. I'm finding it tedious enough to programme and fine-tune 10sec sequences for my blinds in loxone) FTC6 also seems to have a nice failsafe, if the mixing valve fails to close down sufficiently (or it sees temp overrun for any other reasons) it shuts off the UFH circulation pump to avoid overheating the loop. My one gripe is there's no real documentation, let alone feedback, about all the error states & diagnostics it must know about internally.

PM sent. The mixing valve it the one the Welshman recommended on here a while back. Esbe ARA662 actuator 230v 50hz 120 sec https://www.wolseley.co.uk/product/esbe-ara662-actuator--230v-50hz-120-sec-(1)/ Happily the heatpump will drive up to 60ºC (using a separate "smart grid" input to boost it +10ºC when the sun it out), so I can get the whole tank fairly hot on a sunny day. Definitely if we were more than two people, maximising the whole tank temperature via multiple / lower immersion pockets would have been a higher priority. As it was I focused on minimizing losses: just 2 people here, and foolishly designing for a long forgotten world where we only spend a few waking hours at home each day, and away a lot at weekends

To the OP: we have 100m2 downstairs, 55m2 upstairs, passive House enerphit (so slightly higher heat demands) PHPP says about 2.6kW max load. We installed a 8.5kW ecodan R32, oversized mostly for the DHW reheat time but also allows us to push more heat (or cold) into the house at the very cheapest times. (8kW of solar to maximize use of too) Ground floor is all UFH, the ecodan drives an electronic mixing valve to run it with very fine control, generally 24°C flow temp seems plenty but I set a little weather compensation boost when it's below zero out. The other zone is a fan coil in the loft which can run at a hotter or colder temperature (thanks to that electronic mixing valve). We'll only use it for cooling. Upstairs bedrooms are generally 1-2°C warmer than desired even with no heat sources in them, so glad we didn't! The fan coil will dump cold air in the loft, and hopefully a bunch of that will drop down the service void to each room. If not, we can duct it into specific rooms (bedroom, home office) very easily from up there UVC is an oso geocoil 300L. I looked at all the Mixergy/sunamp but putoff by the complexity. The OSO is fantastic. It stratifies amazingly well: bottom half never once got above 14°C when we were using the immersion only. The one downside is it only has one immersion or probe pocket. But in a way it's a blessing: it's forced me to keep the control systems really simple and dumb: heat the whole damn thing up from ASHP and the top up the top half from solar. Mitsubishi have a detailed CAD schematic for this system design, if anyone needs it let me know. I couldn't be happier with how it's performing. (so quiet it took 3 weeks running before we even heard it run, have to be stood outdoors right next to it)

Didn't we just do this?

Acupanel from here https://www.thewoodveneerhub.co.uk/products/acupanel-acoustic-wood-panel-sample Apparently I didn't give away the other samples (which I now recall were from Lignosi before the woodup rebranding) so I'll have to have another rummage around for them.

We've been looking into this too, because having moved in we've discovered (as expected) our living room has the acoustic charm of a secondary school toilet so definitely needs some more work I like the aesthetic shown in the gallery on the AcuPanel website (etc), and would fit our 60s reno vibe very well, but the samples I got felt a bit underwhelming - the slats are veneered MDF and it's easy to see this, especially on the grey felt where the leave the slat edges unfinished raw MDF, the black felt ones they paint the edges black too which does mask the effect, but also makes it incredibly dark (especially if viewed from an angle) A year ago I got the full boxed set of samples from woodupp.co.uk and I think they were a bit better, unfortunately I can't find them now think I must have given it away with the rest of our unused samples. +1 to Dan, these are mostly acoustic treatment not sound proofing products, although acoustically deadening a room will aid sound proofing (less reverb -> less chances for sound energy to "find" the hole in the wall through to the next room). Random aside: there appear to be (at least) 3 companies all in one town selling variations on this stuff. I guess there's some connection: www.thewoodveneerhub.co.uk www.alphawdesign.co.uk www.acupanel.com

I haven't used FileZilla for a while, but a different approach would be: - install sshfs if you haven't already sudo apt-get install sshfs - mount the RhPi filesystem onto the local (linux PC) at some mount point. sudo mkdir /mnt/rhpi sudo sshfs -o allow_other,default_permissions prodave@xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx:/ /mnt/rhpi - use whatever tool you want to edit the files in /mnt/rhpi (cp -a, file browser, whatever) - umount when done. smbfs also exists, to access your SMB share as a local file mount. Aside on the title: This isn't really an "FTP" topic. SFTP is part of the ssh tool stack and has no relationship to FTP. However, FTPS (rarely used, and rightly so) is FTP over SSL.

I have the Amcrest doorbell https://www.amazon.co.uk/Amcrest-SmartHome-Doorbell-Weatherproof-Wide-Angle/dp/B0844YVN5M It's wifi rather than PoE, alas, but otherwise a pretty reliable option. I have it wired via a 25ohm resistor dummy load to a digital input on loxone, which triggers the old 60s door chime (literally the only visible part of our house we retained) It has an optional cloud recording service that is tolerably usable, 1 year free trial is useful while I get the real setup a bit more polished. I'm streaming from it to BlueIris, which transcodes and can provide composite views for Home assistant or Loxone app or pop up on the living room TV or whatever

1/ Will depend on the exact size of ASHP and volume of UFH loops. The larger the ASHP the higher the total circulation volume (pipes + buffer) will need to be, Our install just used a tiny 5L low loss header, to allow hydraulic decoupling but not really proving much buffer, as we have relative long runs in the circuit anyway. (And, not a lot of room) 2/ It's only needed for the heating circuit so it's bound to be workable OK if you put it there by the UFH manifold. If you have the primary pipe from the ASHP external unit coming into the upstairs UVC room AND the controller is there with it then that could work too. Where is the expansion vessel, filter, primary pump a 2-pos valve going?

You could plumb the spare cylinder in series on the input to the main (pre-plumbed) one, leave it dormant most of the time but serve as additional hot water capacity if ever needed. e.g. guests over, or if you have a lot of solar PV you could redirect to an immersion in that as additional storage after your main tank is to temperature. (Beware of summer overheating though). We just installed an ecodan 8.5, a bunch of teething issues but now it's going it's amazing.

Answering myself - the installer says now it has glycol it is indeed fine to just turn off Freeze Stat completely. Which of course opens the question why hadn't he already done that, and I wonder how many other installs are out there with it needlessly enabled, along with numerous non-optimal settings, but whatevers.

thanks for this - finally got our system commissioned last week. I have exactly this issue, with an extra wrinkle that the zone 1 pump also triggers the fan on our fan coil unit, so in the current cold snap I have 4 motors running 24/7. I wouldn't mind terribly if the primary pump were firing for a few minutes every 10 or something, but this is a bit much. It's already taken 25 visits from the MCS installer to get to this stage so I'd rather just resolve this myself if I can. As the system has had Glycol added and was MCS signed off, am I supposed to be assured (by MCS standard) that no freeze stat is needed?

This: https://www.coolyoudirect.co.uk/solutions/water-cooled-air-conditioning-light-commercial/ In my opinion is these are more antisocial than the external A/C unit they avoid, given the scarcity of water reserves in the exact places where these things will be marketed most, but - that's just my opinion. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-47620228

If you're going for a (vaguely) airtight door, then the answer is - inward opening performs better - no. you can't easily reverse it. The issue is mostly the threshold. Making an airtight seal at the threshold is hard, making it on the outside of the threshold is harder, and reversing the threshold (non-destructively) even harder Full disclosure: we have a Moralt Ferro Passive garage door, made a last minute change to make it outward opening, and somewhat regret it.

From previous conversation, I'm fairly sure it's the Vitocal 222-A which is a monobloc heatpump, so the thing being discussed here is the packaged 220L DHW tank for it, not the heatpump.