joth

Simple timer for waking hours, and a pipe thermostat strapped on the return pipe (a few meters away from the tank) to shut off the pump when the pipework is up to temperature

Yes sorry you're probably right with the unifi flex. I was thinking of cheap unmanageable poe powered switch. I have one that has poe pass through which is very handy, which the unifi flex lacks

yeah, but no, but yeah - there's goood but no good when you realise it would be helpful to put HDbaseT and/or TosLink down a spare cable you never installed lol But agree those switches are good to get out of a pinch (assuming all devices are on the same VLAN, which is OK for everything but CCTV in my install)

I'm inclined to agree. CAT6a doesn't cost much more but adds agro as it's harder to source (esp if you want a selection of jacket colours) and harder to terminate correctly. The main benefit is thicker cores makes it a whisker more efficient for PoE power delivery, and shielding is never a bad I idea. I installed it and don't regret it, my bigger regret is not pulling enough cables to a couple locations (behind TV in particular, it's the one place I should have put ducting to and didn't)

We DIYed all CAT6a termination. Wall socket (and patch panel) is easy, just use a good quality punch down tool not the cheap flimsy plastic freebie If you need captive rj45 plugs on exposed fly lead e.g. WAPs and CCTV points they're a bit more fiddly, especially if using thicker (future proof) CAT6a rather than CAT6. Personally if my installer is suggesting mesh for backhaul rather than wired connection I'd be looking for a new installer, or certainly not rely on them for any design advice

Yeah, it's controlled by a Loxone server relay output; the whole lot is 24V

I forgot to add*, if you don't worry about WRAS then AliExpress have much cheaper versions of exactly the same thing . The benefit of servo driven rather than conventional valve is they use no power when at rest, and much quicker response times. * - in my defence I was at 3000m elevation in a ski hut restaurant when I wrote previous post 😅

2 port valves generally aren't wras approved are they? I went for one of these, ABVM08S/9AR https://www.solenoid-valve.world/c/1589 They do normally open or normally closed versions. I went NC as I'm confident my control system won't cut power to it accidentally. Being 24V makes battery backup for it simple.

No they're from ventilation land, who supply matching plenum box with 200mm duct spigot. I use 200 duct throughout to reduce the noise. I've not actually bothered with return ducting, just relying on negative pressure in the loft to let air find a way around. I think dedicated return is better if you can. I'll see if I can find photos of the loft side but it's not pretty 😂

Yes best to find another installer. Most likely they're also not applying your target airtightness so having a much higher heat loss per room. Do you have a PHPP of other heat loss model you can share? If you wanted you could consider UFH on additional floors, it is handy for a bit of active cooling. But we didn't put any heating upstairs and never regretted it (enerphit passive house retrofit)

The incoming supply should be protected by the dno fuse on the cut out before the meter.

Yes, this will be the fourth summer running it. It's a systemair FCU rebranded as Panasonic. Ducted into linear supply grills in three bedrooms. All documented and photos in the OG FCU thread here Linear grills I had a custom output plenum made for the FCU by ductstore.co.uk

Yes I've been on eon couple months now and even made my own referral successfully. Sorry you never got your bung, let's follow up by DM

^ this probably said it better than I have Nit picking: more heat than the emitters can dissipate. If the boiler is producing more than the house can dissipate it means its summer and time to turn the heating off 🙃

Absolutely; when we set out selecting an architect we didn't really know the scope of the project (from a modest "passive house inspired" remodel right up to knock down and rebuild) But by the time we'd completed planning application (in a conservation area), detailed design, BR sign off, and ready to issue tender pack, 99% of the variables you mention had been fixed, so to mind this was the right time to fix pricing. (There was an additional bargaining point, that this was the architect's first certified PH so a portfolio project, and one contractor wanted to whisk us off into a D&B contract, so there was incentive for the architect in having us stick with them. But even without those factors I think it'd still be a good time to fix pricing if it's not been done before then)

We were on a % of build cost (for a deep renovation) but prior to the tender being issued to contractors we agreed to "freeze" the architect fee at a fixed price based on this % of the target budget we were aiming for. This felt a good compromise as it meant during the tendering negotiations we knew they were onside with no additional motive to let the price balloon. I much preferred the architects that gave fixed price quote from the outset, but we compromised on this criteria because we wanted a passivhaus certified designer and there weren't many to choose from in 2018.

I assume you're on mains gas. Some random thoughts to add to what others have said. Do you use gas for anything else (hob? Fireplace?). Going to ASHP makes more sense if boiler is the only gas user hence allows you to disconnect gas Will you be moving the boiler or meter as part of the renovation? If so then you can save on some of that work by making the transition now, but if not then maybe less incentive to mess with it. Are you more concerned about financial or environmental savings? Either way increasing insulation and airtightness as part of the build will help, but in particular if you can get your heating demand very low you can do all the heating in overnight cheap rate electric which makes ASHP cheaper to run than gas boiler. With a leaky drafty house you can't avoid running the heating source all day (when building occupied) which makes ASHP more expensive, at least until energy taxation policy is rebalanced away from favouring gas.

Seems a bit passe to me DOOM on a lighting to hdmi adapter is where the bar is at

How many temperature probe pockets does your tank have? IIRC it's 3 or more. Perhaps worth loading up a probe in each one to get a more complete picture of the stratification. My tank just has the one pocket in the middle and I have similar annoyance at the fairly binary nature of the data it gives me...

How long did you leave it? Dunno about the Northern DCC by my experience on the southern network is it takes days for anything to actually register and start using the smart meter data once it finally connects.

I did a DIY install of one of their split units, in a garden room gym (100mm insulation) I fudged it up and all the gas leaked so paid more to have it recharged than having pro install would have cost to start with (because finding someone to do R290 was expensive). But hey, learning experience! They all in one completely removes that risk, would have done that in retrospect The dehumidifier struggles when the air is already very cold, which is the main time we have (very serious) condensation issues. You need to warm the air up first, it doesn't seem to do that as part of the program. I'm going to try and automatic extractor fan instead.

Yes I found that pdf now too, pretty much what I was imagining and alluding to. Be interesting how the whole system performs with the stacked SCOPs. Certainly the 6-7 SCOP of the indoor unit on its own is only part of the picture. It's convenient in a big apartment block it naturally distributes much of the running cost across the properties though, especially if there is a mix of heating and cooling needs occuring. (Sunny vs shaded side etc)

Yes exactly what I was thinking too, what with it not having a ducted version (yet) either. I found this ("Tentative") data sheet for it https://cdn.aircon.panasonic.eu/uploads/DE/Catalogues/2024/Tentative Flyer Aquarea Loop.pdf 28 dB(A) minimum noise, doesn't sound much.. but one number never captures the whole story

https://www.aircon.panasonic.eu/GB_en/news/new/panasonics-aquarea-loop-transforms-retrofit-heating-and-cooling-with-decentralised-water-to-air-heat-pump-technology/ Not strictly about ASHP as it's a (decentralised ) water sourced heat pump. Essentially a wall mounted fan coil with a mini heat pump built in. So long as the building has a circuit of water maintained at 20-30°C this can either draw heat out of it, or dump heat into it, in order to service the needs of the room it is installed in. And genius addition is an accessory to allow any condensation to be injected into the circulation pipe to be removed. So in a quirky property you may have heating in some places and cooling in others at the same time, and the temperatures would balance out n More typically some external heat source/sink would be need to balance it, so far I've not found recommendations on that but 20-30° is a wide enough operating window it could be done pretty efficiently and opens innovative possibilities. Likewise imagine hooking the DHW reheat into the circuit should be simple step too. Probably good in apartment blocks too. Will follow how this works out with interest.

If you search this forum (easiest via Google) there's loads of threads about dreaded L9 error. Mine was caused by a buckled flexible pipe outside. My friend's was a blocked strainer. My own previous issues (and recur every time I drain it) is air trapped in the system and really hard to bleed out (the pipes go up and over). I blew the air out by connecting external pipe to outdoor mains pressure tap! The list goes on and on. Like your installer (with exception I'm not claiming to be knowledgeable on ecodan) I replaced many components (3 port valve, flow sensor, pump) before finding the part that actually needed replacing. It does seem to be the way UK plumbing works, since before my time if I'm honest. Good luck