Big Jimbo

Thanks @JohnMo That's much more in my language. Thank you.

With regards the heat loss calcs, i am only doing roof and wall to current building regs, with block and beam floor and tripple glazed windows being slightly better. I do have a fair few windows, and my part "O" was a bit task to get a pass on the simplified version.

@JohnMo Thanks for your imput. I was hoping you would chip in. The total size is 1750 square foot. I believe i was dilligent when doing the heat loss calcs, but im happy to re-visit them. As for the other stuff you have stated, i will do some reading up. I'm afraid i'm a very practical guy, rather than an intelect. Old cars i can play with the mechanicals, and usually get things sorted. New cars with all the electronics. Not a chance. The main problem is having confidence in trusting someone else to design the system up, and unfortunately my previous expierience has not been great. I wouldn't even mind paying someone to design and pipe size etc. Just want to make sure i'm doing the best that i can Thanks again.

So in spring i will be starting the build of my first house. I have permission for two however, as i am going to have to borrow money commercially, (no income) . I will have to build and sell the first house, in order to provide the funds to build the second house for me to live in. Now i want to build a decent house, but not go over the top on spending as it will be sold. The house will be 1750square foot, 4bedroom, three bathroom. The ground floor is 94 square meters, and i intend fitting underfloor heating. The upstairs is 74 square meters and i intend fitting radiators. A water storage tank of 250 to 300l will be fitted to provide hot water. I have sized this to give the chance to have three 10min showers at the same time, with the water being stored at 45c. There will be One kitchen sink, One WC sink downstairs. Two of the bathrooms will be above the water tank, and the other will require a pipe run of about 10meters. The upstairs rads will be run from a manifold upstairs. I have done this in the passed twice with home made manifolds and it has worked well. The downstairs underfloor heating will be run from a manifold. I have as yet no idea re zones etc, but basically i will have a front sitting room, that i anticipate will be used mostly in the evening. a largish entrance hall. WC. Small laundry room. Study (where the hot water tank will be) and a large kitchen, dining family area. I have completed, what i believe to be a comprehensive heat loss calculation, and my result is a 5kw heat need. That was worked to 21 degrees inside, and -4 outside. I have even compensated for altitude, 150meters above Heathrow Airport. I have designed to an airleak score of 5, but hope to get nearer to 3. Obviously as a new build i have decent "U" values, and so a heat demand of 5kw seems decent ? I have been told that a 6kw heat pump would be fine, as long as i make sure i get One that can modulate down nice and low. I have been told that a gov grant of £7.5k is available via getting the kit i would need from a registered supplier ? Although i have gas on site, i'm keen to think about an ASHP. One of the reasons is that i have room on the roof for Aprox 10 solar panels South facing, And 10 West facing. I intend fitting these during the build while the scaffolding etc is up. I don't have the budget for fitting any battery storage, but intend getting the various wires run while the house is being built, so that they can be fitted with very little hassle in the future if wanted. I also have to fit an EV charger, although i dont have an electric car. Can anybody give me a bit of a steer if the above sounds ok? The biggest hold back i have is the internet being filled with people moaning about how ther heat pumps are rubbish. A local new estate has been built with heat pumps, and the moaning about cost, and lack of heat is all you hear from the people..... To top it off, i spoke to a heating engineer, who is actually a friend of that bloke Adam, from heat geak, and he said size everything for low temp running, make the install Heat pump ready, and stick a bloody gas boiler on the wall !!!!!!!! Any steer would be gratefully received. Regards Confused (Tired of being) and with far too many other things to get on with.

I expect, but dont know, if the area behind the cladding will need to be ventilated, but i expect it will. So you will need to find something that leaves the gap free, usually 25mm, but expands to fill that gap in the event of a fire. Also, my own thoughts are that any cladding on the outside, should be ventilated, at the top, and the bottom, together with gaps in any battens that allow airflow into areas, such as under windows etc. Think of it as a roof that needs full ventilation. You could achieve full ventilation by using a cross batten system. Don't forget to mesh the top, and bottom to prevent, wasps, bees, mice etc, making a nice home behind your cladding. As for fire stops, in my opinion, don't be tempted to fully block the cavity, with fire socks, or you wont have any ventilation. I was pondering the same problem on a house that i didnt build in the end. Sorry, i could not find any products that would leave enough of the ventilation gap, and expand enough to close it, in the event of a fire.

My thoughts would bethat there may be some lime in there. I like the look if that is what you are going for. Best of luck with your build.

And there i was thinking you came from somewhere around Aylesbury. Don't know why.

24C that is lavish my friend.

Well done fella.

Not in the Prison i hope @SteamyTea

Welcome Mike. I'm only down the road in Bovingdon. I have permission to knock One, and build Two. Just working through my Building regs. Going to get started hopefully, early march 26.

anybody waiting on there PP, be aware, a lot of councils are insisting that BNG has to be discharged on its own, and can't be grouped with other conditions for discharge. This means paying another fee ! This is unlawful. Dacorum council tried this on with me only this week. i pushed back, and said i wanted to know the legal framework that allowed them to insist on a application on its own. They could not come up with anything, so backed down.

I'm tied to a UU because i am within 12km of some woodland that people go and trample all over at the weekends. Legal fees that i had to pay to the council £1500. and £6500 towards the upkeep of the woods. That's for one new house. The other is considered a replacement, so i dont have to pay for that one.

Do as @Nickfromwales advised. We cant tell if that wall has been built off the B and B, or off the foundations. Spend £30 and have it sorted.

In an ideal world design them out ?

I am aware that they do need to be done up very tight. That is actually quite hard to do. I have known a couple of instances where they have indeed leaked during air testing.

Nah, defo the bloke from PSB

The guy second from the right is defo the bloke who plays keyboards in the Pet Shop Boys

tell your architwat to get lost. No conditioin, NO bat survey.

I wouldn't @Erriff. Unless it is a condition of your permission.

Bad eaves detail, with a warm roof. How many times do we see that.

Yeah, @Thorfun. But our @Pocster, always gives the best laugh per post by a mile.

Nice job @FuerteStu Only my opinion, but i wish you had curved that second step. However, fab job, pat on the back.

One of the reasons why i hate those slopes when i see them in any property. You are going to have to try and get some insulation in there, while maintaining airflow under the tiles if you have a cold roof.

I thought that was my Mrs for a minute @Pocster. Then i realised that the lack of stocking tops ment it could not be her....... In my dreams.