Big Jimbo

If your roofer is talking about a double layer of underfelt, it's a bodge, and it will leak. You are going to struggle to get a tile down to 11 degrees. As @nod said that is almost flat. You are going to need a hell of a headlap, and i would still expect it to leak.

Move the top onen/microwave up by a couple of mm. adjust the top door first and set it up right. You can do this with a couple of pieces of 50mm wide pieces of wood/ mdf sat ontop of the shelf below the oven / micro. The lower oven should be raised by a larger amount using the same method. Aim to get the gap between the Two appliances to about 5mm. You will need this gap unless the top appliance door opens within it's own axis. (most dont) Then set your bottom drawers up, which they are clearly not at the moment. The result is that the gap you have will now be between the lower appliance, and the top of the drawer below. The way to now fill the remaining gap is what a lot of kitchen companies call an oven filler. Don't forget that you will also require a gap between the lower appliance and the top of this filler in order for the door to drop when it is opened. You will also require a gap between the bottom of the oven filler and the top of the drawer. If the oven filler you purchase is to high / tall, you cut it down to fit the gap, and fit putting the cut face down. You can always put a bit of silver tape over the cut edge, but really not needed. Hope the above gets you sorted.

Forgot to mention an ethernet cable run from house to cabin. 3 years, just slung on the floor. Been fine.

I am not any of the above people, but my cameras, poe. The wires have been outdoors for 6 years, just slung over the roof. Still working no probs.

Nick above is right, however, a couple of small fire extinguishers in any house are a handy thing to have. Especially when you build what sounds like that enormous BBQ in the garden that i know you are planning. I fully expect that it was just a nut nut. Mental health or drugs. I bet if he was brought to the end of your street today, and told to find the house he was at last night, he couldn't. Try not to worry about the event too much. (easy to say) If you didn't know the fella it is unlikely to be somebody you have actually pi$$ed off.

Not allowed a tazer (legally) although easy enough to make one. The powder fire extinguisher really does work very well. Cheap for a couple of small one's either online, or halfords etc.

As said above, you could do it cheaper, and better, by knocking it down and starting again.

You must all be shaken up. I know that you have not long finished your house. You can get an HD8 camera, poe, with a recording box for about £500. If you have a power source in the loft, and you can get to the eaves corners, it would be quite easy to install. No offence, but i'm not sure you are very practical. Ring around a few security companies today and find out what you can get without to much disruption. I know you cant buy mace in the UK, but can you get hold of some legal pepper spray ? As an alternative get to halfords today, and get a couple of in-car fire extinguishers. The powder ones. Get One by the front door, and One by the back door. Get another One to carry in your car. You can use it if you need to. It's simple, but very effective. If you have ever had a faceful of it you would know what i mean. If the worse happens, most people make the mistake of attempting to punch. If you know how to, that's great. Otherwise dont bother. If somebody is up close and personal, a through kick aimed at the ankle is a very good way of putting a person to the ground. A thump to the solar plexis will remove the air from there lungs. A good punch, or thump to either side, just above the hip (kidney) always takes a person down. Having said all of the above my fave would be the fire extinguisher, which should allow you time to remove yourself from the situation.

Nice high ceilings, even on the flat parts @nod

They might have lost all the old reports due to time since the last visit, and want to start again from scratch. Can you try and record it so we can all have a listen. "We don't appear to have a record of seeing A,B,C etc" ....."Kin chuffing mother........rs..... it was a baldy bloke, Glasses, stubble"......... Oh, he retired, just after the Queens Jubilee. The Silver Jubilee. How long did you say you have been working on this project ?

That is very resin rich. Good job Conor. Plenty of sweat drips mixed in with that resin i bet.

Does building control cover Solweld pipework ? Asking for a friend.

I would like to see one up close and personal. They do look like more plastic rubbish to me. I wonder how well they work, and how long they will last.

I was wondering why you needed so many screws. It looks like you are planning on using the one's that actually look like a big screw. In my post above, i was refering to the helictical one's that look a lot more like a boat propeller. I would like to wish you the very best of luck with your project, which i will be following on here.

It's been a few years since i was down at BRE in Watford. From memory, they have several houses that are built on screw piles. I think they have screw piles that are all linked together with a metal grid frame. I believe that on top of that they have some sort of Lewis deck. From there it is a straightforward timber framed building. I never got the calculations, but did go as far as talking to a screw pile company, and having a design and calculations for a 13 x 11m house. At the time my thoughts were to build with timber I-beams. The cost was very reasonable. The reason i was looking into the system, was because my ground was medium shrinkability, but i had large trees. Poplars, and Oaks. I would have taken it further except that i had the concern of perhaps in the future having to sell, a bit of an out there, non standard construction house. The cost was slightly over a third of the cost of piling, and a ringbeam. The other thing that i liked, was the idea, of no digging, no muck away, and no concrete. It has to be a better way, just not something that is standard, and therefore the lenders all crap themselves, or load repayments accordingly. If i ever get the chance to build a smaller house to see out my days. I would try to do it that way. My own opinion is that we should only be building houses with a designed lifespan of 60 to 80 years. By that time, any house is about at the end of it's useful life. If you think about most of our current housing stock, to bring them up to modern standards would require most of them to be ripped apart to the point where there is not much left of them.

Look around for your nearest stone worktop supplier. They are usually more than happy to get rid of the stacks of small bits of stone they have cluttering the yard. I'm sure they would put a polished front edge on it for you for a few quid. The other point is that you can if you want have behind the loo fully tiled, and a small duel push button off to the side. I hate those bloody huge push plates, that are right behind the up toilet seat.

Would you be allowed to inspect it with a cheap drone ?

You could always do a layer of underfelt, and then felt roof shingles as the top layer. I did it on my last big man shed. The cost was ok, and it did look nice. Might be worth costing.

In england, if your old windows didn't have trickle vents, then your replacement windows didn't have to have them either. This was classed as making the ventilation, no worse than before. That was about 3 years ago, so worth checking if still the case. On my daughters house i got on quite well with the building inspector. I told him that i refused to fit trickle vents due to the thermal bi-pass, and that they were leaky pieces of crap. I had already fitted extractors to all of the wet areas, and the house was leaky as you like. I wasn't paying for tripple glazing and then putting ruddy great holes in them. He called me a grumpy old git, and sent my BR cert in the post.

Both of the above are very much how banking in the 80's worked. We all know where that ended up.

@SteamyTea I think part O should hav ebeen filed in PartB, ie; in the bin.

Another thing. Windows that are upstairs according to part O have to be 1100mm from the floor. If they are below that they have to have guarding. To comply with the escape portion of Part B, you can't have the opening section above 1100mm. Good luck to us all getting them at exactly 1100mm to comply with both part. Who the fudge allowed the bods writing part O to have anything to do with stating how high from the floor your windows are allowed to be. Bloody Madness, and stupid. I have decided that i shall put my windows in at normal level, because i would like my grandchildren to be able to make use of an escape route incase of a fire. If and when Building control tell me that my windows are to low, i will have several pieces of mdf ready to nail across the reveal to satisfy the stupid part O regulation that my opening must not be lower that 1100mm. We paid for this utter shite to be written with our taxes, and you can bet the twats that wrote it were on consultancy fees of a couple of grand minimum each per day. Tossers.

I might have ago at doing my own Heat calcs next.......Lots of fags but need to stock up on choc.

So basically another grand then. However, you will get a load of bits of computer printed paper, with loads of stuff that you don't understand. You will pass it on to building control, who won't understand it either, and prob are not paid enough to spend the time looking at it anyway. So, seriously, i spent the whole bloody day making sure i was calculating all the right things, with some complicated maths (for me) I plan on fitting HVMR, so i will ban the opening of windows ever. As Dizzie would say "Bonkers"

Fab @johnhenstock83. @Nickfromwales i will make a note of that.