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No, not yet. We've an odd build up - insulated slab (with 375mm EPS) already down but at initial design stage I'd overlooked the need for a thermal break so adding a further bit of insulation (20mm Kooltherm with joints foil taped) and polythene this weekend prior to pipes and screed next week. What do you tape the polythene with?

Any particular recommendations? From a quick google anything above 500 gauge should be okay? Lapped to the walls? (We have foil face insulation below UFH pipes and on the walls).

I think he is - and it's a good reminder before we finishing sheeting not to box anything in that we need access to but can't get to. (Think AAVs are to be hidden in cupboards, rather than sheeted, anyway but shall confirm with the principal interior designer).

They've not been boxed in yet but presumed they would be - plumber had previously said about access for rodding eyes and the like so we'll catch that when finishing sheeting this week. Cheers.

Our airtightness test will be done after sheeting - not concerned in terms of pass/fail as we've been fairly meticulous (all windows compribanded, airtight membrane seal and then airtight taped from frame to membrane, grommets on all service penetrations etc) but hadn't thought about AAVs (or the soil vent pipe which goes to the atmosphere), which will be boxed in. Is there much of an issue not having these sealed off and/or how do you go about doing that after the fact?

If you know of anyone with an allotment you'll soon get shot of the 75mm stuff - we had skipraiders in after our offcuts for making French drains. The foil backed insulation is good for pipe lagging if you've still got your plumbing pipe exposed.

Coming round to that thinking. Thanks - and concrete. Data sheet says 8-12 hours usable time in normal conditions.

Finding a replacement was a job I subbied out to the other half. I think I'll give the new lot a call tomorrow for an initial chat. Cheers.

102m2, 75mm depth over UFH.

Our initial screed installer can no longer do the work - two weeks lead time is now two months - and our preferred new installer is advising we do not need need a pump to pour, and they'll instead barrow in (but that they can pump if we like, for an extra £600). Any issues with that?

Had two tapers out to quote, one saying we should topcoat everywhere the other saying only to topcoat where we'll tile/wet areas. Any views?

We had Austrian trades in earlier in the build and they said they do single skin as standard - big deep walls providing thermal mass. Can't recall the name but they were of the view that everything was done much better there and took the risk of poor as built workmanship out of getting airtight and energy efficient housing.

I'd be very wary of doing anything that makes whatever is in the cabinet look anything but something as mundane as a tap - your curious/japesters/thiefs are more likely to be drawn to a lock than a tap so you might end up encouraging what you want to discourage. Could you box it in with an outdoor socket cover or similar?

I joists - electrics already ran. Sticking slab insulation and any plasterboard prep on this weekend.

Are you a worrier by nature?

Both - three kids bedrooms above. Build up is LVT, underlay, 262mm joist with 100m flexi slab, (resilient bars/pb), pb.

If you don't need the MCS for a loan/grant then just buy yourself and find a roofer and spark to do it. I know our supplier just orders there's direct from Midsummer so could see the mark-up but I was getting 25% back and the rest rolled into a loan and it removed a hassle so I took the hit - but otherwise I'd definitely just have ordered direct, from seeing the install there's nothing to it if you have a bit of basic competence.

Thanks - think I'd be doing the resi bars at the weekend in advance of them. So as long as guidance is followed, 36mm screws into joists then leave them with only 25mms for the install all should be good?

Hi, Sheeters are due to put ground floor ceilings in next week. I have 15mm PB on site and was about to hit the button on ordering resilience bars when I realised they will work out more expensive for materials than a second skin, but will likely be a fair bit cheaper on labour. Any thoughts on what the best option would be?

We have in-roof. The panels sit on trays and the roofers flash around them so there's no prospect of any water penetration as long as it's detailed properly. Looks a wee bit pricy to me, depending on cost of battery (we don't have one). Our quotes were all around 5-6 grand for 4kW system (yours is 5.92). For install, it took three roofers less than two hours from leaving their van to getting back in it - so £1500 is expensive but there's good money to be made in that game.

Treated 2*2s wrapped in DPC around your windows. Envirograf does the same but for about two-thirds of the cost of Tenmat.

Pedantry is fine. A wee bit better and a bit more solid for getting a drywall screw through works for me.

There's a groove in the Veluxes approximately 22mm or thereabouts from the edge of the window unit. I think 25mm insulation would leave it too tight to fit the plasterboard. I had Kooltherm kicking about but if I had 20mm PIR could have used that too (Kooltherm has better performance though - so 20mm Kooltherm is like 40mm bogstandard PIR - and it's really robust, but I don't think there's any issues just screwing plasterboard straight onto PIR either). We got our Kooltherm from Seconds and Co and the price was not much different to buying PIR from a merchant.

We went RAL6021 and the only gripe I have is that the Compriband is made to suit grey and dark windows so there's a bit of an unintended contrast around the windows.

No idea if I've done it right or not but I put 20mm Kooltherm in attached to the structural timber, airtight taped the Velux plasterboard groove to it and then boarded. About an hour a window once I had the hang of it and only a few quid in the scheme of things.