BadgerBodger

Has anyone used one of the Grundfos recirc pumps with the autoadapt feature??? So it learns the house schedule and records at the tiles you’re most likely to call for hat water. Seems to be a happy compromise for generally having hot water when you want it and not circulating unnecessarily… pipes would need lagging still though.

I have used this alumasc cast half round on my current project. It was easy to fit and looks great. I’ll take some photos tomorrow.

Second this. Prefinished premium conservation automated triple Keylite via Huws Gray was less than 1/3 my quoted Velux equivalent…

As @Bonner said. My LCC status was seriously unclear and various policies indicated that there was intent to apply it after a certain date (which had passed prior to my planning). I emailed the council (planning dept.) asking for their fee structure and got a clear and simple answer saying that there was none as they were not yet applying CIL

Henry. With dust bags. Site stalwart. outlasts most “superior” brands. not exactly class M filtration though….

Rent a room scheme protects cgt liability but limits earning capacity?

Just a quick FYI on the pump being in the tank for Marsh. Yes it is normally BUT if you choose the pumped outfall it isn’t and can’t be (according to Marsh) I bought mine through my merchant choosing both options pumped and inbuilt but it came pumped only and only when I enquired did I find out it’s one or the other.

Haix Trekker Pro 2.0 - I have a lot of boots and these stand out as the best. Two colleagues had their first pairs for 3 years 5 days a week. Soles wore out. I’m on year two and no signs of stopping yet. They’re a bit stiff and clunky but with the ankle height your sure footed alright. I took them home for my build and got some Haix AirPower XR3 for work and they’re lighter and more flexible. Feel like they’ll last just as long. not cheap though

@saveasteading the bigger hole point is a good one, I spent another couple of hundred on the gravel backfill because of the over dig. Only by 250mm all sides due to exposing for archaeologist investigation and relief drawings but nonetheless…

Nice. I like that so many people see the same opportunities. STP install is very easy. Same for drainage field. Wouldn’t like to do it at this time of year though. Hate claggy boots. Here’s mine with drainage field. Marsh ensign pumped so I didn’t have such a deep drainage field. 3 days on the hottest day of the year. digger, dumper, driver, plant, materials and yours truly just under 5700 not much better than muddy boots really!

Also, I found my BM got me an extremely competitive price for outsources items like trusses and insulated B&B

I thought rough sawn was as is, but PSE or CLS is „regularised”

Our area has a flood risk assessment with a predefined FFL which all new properties are required to comply with. I’m not sure we could have argued otherwise if we liked! We just accepted it for what it was and our internal FFL is 450mm above the external level. Is this something that is available/defined for your area?

Resistance training mixed with cardio likely. What ever doesn’t exhaust you too much for a hard days work ahead of you 😂

Don’t think it’s much easier if you’re younger!!! I’m not yet 40 and I’m still feeling the pain!! If it’s not your day job any task can really put a strain on you as it uses different muscle groups. I’m pretty fit, one of those swim, bike, run guys, but last week, steel fixing, laying drainage, shoveling hardcore, general carting, power tools and hammering roof nails really (expletive deleted)ed me up. Only just got over it today, ready to start the cycle again!!! I do have a “desk job” though…

Up north we call it hoggin AKA limestone dust AKA self binding gravel. it still wants some geotextile and sub base down though…

All new slate for that size. I’d say the price was about right if not good values. if you had a full reroof it should have had BR app anyway? nothing that can’t be resolved with either, retrospective regularisation or an indemnity policy…

As @Nickfromwales is saying. It looks like they’ve just reinforced the existing structure. some of this might be been due to a need due to rot, or the builders opinion that what was there was inadequate or even just for ease and safety of battening. the original rafter spacing appear irregular, you don’t often see them not meeting at the spar ends which would possibly explain the reinforced ridge which he would then probably have nailed into. then the original rag gets are also not parallel and/or straight. This can present an issue for counter battening (if done) and lathing. it just takes a bit more time really but if the spacing is excessive walking the lathe afterward may in his view have been unsafe (too much deflection. seeing the type of roof timbers originally used this looks like a really old house? It’s quite typical to see a hodge podge of solutions up there are everyone has their own take. unless you have a defect now because of it, I likely wouldn’t be worried. surprising he didn’t mention it though.

Typically minimum 200mm concrete, wet cast with jacket. Or mass fill the hole. Well pokered. I suppose on a smaller ring you could use something like peckafil or even heavy duty correx. Should be effective enough. If it were a concrete ring with torching that were leaking this would reduce it to damp patches in most scenarios.

@Kelvin can you use it WITH hue? My vision was to essentially install the sonoff relay so the bulb was „always on” bit disregard is own „smart” functionality . I think this was the problem @Benpointer was trying to resolve too?

Is the Sonoff mini something that works? I haven’t got one yet but it looks like the route I will take.

Can confirm 360 xi seems to do the job. 63mm ringshanks go with ease. yet to try 90mm

2nd for Lewis. Allthough I got the 3t industrial double. 8.8m working height. it’s solid, even at height if erected correctly. For me, same as Nick, this was an investment for ongoing maintenance etc. So bought new.

Interesting. Yes I had forgotten about this metric. I’ll ask my SE. It is around 90m2 (6x10) 100-125 thick (varies for to existing substrate and is easier to resolve with additional concrete) and is loaded with perimeter stud walls to FF and internal furniture including kitchen etc. XPS is even more expensive though no? At which point I might as well use PIR and build levels with stone?

Hey, I’m looking to use EPS insulation (around 300mm) below by ground bearing slab within the existing structure. Having used the a Treanor Pujol insulated block and beam system I noticed that the “blocks” were EPS 70 but the overlay was EPS 100. It got me thinking, should I be using EPS 70 or 100 below by slab? There is a not insignificant cost difference (the lower density being cheaper) and my only reference point in having used EPS under a slab was a crew yard which was EPS 200 and when I used it as a void former/filler under a disabled access ramp which was EPS 100. For reference the insulation will be laid onto “blinding” (old block paving) or compacted sand in two layers with the. DPM sandwiched between the layers to allow me to tack the UFH pipe work to the upper layer before mesh and pour. Badger