BotusBuild

Its worth getting the design earlier rather than close to when you think you need it, in order to ensure that the various parts will fit where expected. You may be able to make adjustments to other works to make the MVHR ducting fit better

I think there limits Mike. Not sure what they are. There are various connectors that you can buy to link the outlet of the pan to the soil pipe.

This serves as a warning to all new self builders, who will likely see it when too late, and also to try and get myself out of a bind. TL;DR - make sure the outlet of your pan (typically at 180-185mm centre !!!!!!!!!, or roughly 130mm from floor level) can be connected to your soil pipe without having to go UPHILL!! Basically, I have a swept T where the T part comes up to 180mm (maybe a little lower) from the floor level (the one with the cap to the right in the picture below). By the time we have fitted the final floor it might be about 170mm, so still about 40mm higher than practically every floor standing pan available on the market. Second major mistake is that lot is now behind a plastered wall. Honestly, I don't think I could have f&*%ked this up more. I am furious with myself. Anyway, options as I see it are: Lower the soil pipe into which the swept T is fitted. I am not going down this route The swept T has a seal on it. Option 2 is to cut the part with the seal away from the pipe, shortening the pipe, maybe by enough to get to about 150mm from dfloor level Raise the floor level "locally" by 40-50mm for a floor standing pan to sit on (SWMBO's preferred type of toilet pan) Fit a wall hung toilet pan which I can set to the height of my choosing (SWMBO thinks they look too commercial. It has been discussed and there may be a chink of light in the armour 🙂 ) Completely rejig the en-suite layout and pipework, which would include having to re-route the soil pipe from the cloakroom that is directly above this mess (it's currently behind that insulation). So, apart from calling me an utter f*&%tard, which I deserve right now, please can anyone provide some kind enlightenment to the snivelling self builder in the corner? Thanks

Have you tried BPC Ventilcation? https://bpcventilation.com/ Send them your plans, they come back with a design. For a fee I think they then provide you with flow rates etc. I used them for layout design and choice of unit. We had a few back and forth discussions about why certain elements of their layout would not work, but we did arrive at a final design. It was based on using distribution boxes and semi rigid ducting.

For those not in the know, what is BNG?

Not ever, just on this property. Quite please with our Stairway to .....

I had such a visit back in December. I had requested the visit as a pre-completion review. They called it something else, but they did follow up the visit with a list of things they needed to see before completion. Very handy for the work plan needed this year.

I would just use the builders sand on its own. It'll be easier to level the capping stones as you lay them.

Looks like a reflection I think

My take on this. All the mullions have slope, whether fixed or opening windows which is good. The bit you are questioning is glazing fixed into the frame. In essence, once fitted with the seals all in place correctly, the glazing should not move relative to the frame as designed. The possibility of rain getting into that area between the bottom of the glazing and the frame should be zero as long as they are manufactured correctly which we should assume they will be. You're going to be checking all the seals in these units when they arrive, like I did, aren't you (Hint!). Check for any where you suspect they have put the join between the two ends of a seal anywhere else except the top of the frame. We had 5! glazing units removed after fitting to have the seals replaced and fitted correctly.

I was wondering what had happened to all the water from @Pocster's leak - filling the swimming pools of the world

We have Dryvit render to the frames. I have applied Soudaseal 215 LM Premium Hybrid Sealant over the join.

This would make me VERY nervous - you pay out for all the planning application, surveys and reports that may be needed to support the application, it gets approved, and then they pull out, up the price and you can't afford to buy and are out of pocket for the planning. Something needs to be put in place to protect you.

If the walls are structurally OK, or only need minor repairs like replacing the cracked block, the ultimate strong "roof" would be a beam and block sealed to keep the water out. But, probably so.e 2x8 joists at 400c/c with boards across, again sealed to keep the water out.

I can't visualise what you mean by this. Sorry

Can't do this. Each end is located in the concrete walls at each end (inside Nudura ICF)

Screws to wooden joists that run perpendicular to the current outer beam. These are already in situ

I think @Tony L's approach is the one to adopt. Nothing to lose, a good reason to explain why you need this done ASAP, and with patience you'll find where to go and you'll get the result you desire.

Answering the question with a question to which the answer is yes. "Show me the money!"

Already have 8x2 installed every 400 c/c. The 2x3 or 2x4 will be screwed along each of these, probably every 400mm

Yes, that's a safe assumption. Agreed. I will be adding a wooden edge on the end of the cantilever, then 2x3 or 2x4 right across the whole width at 400mm c/c, before the final balcony coverage on top of those. The 2x3 or 2x4's should reduce the torsional impact.

Looking for some input/kind critique (he asks hopefully 🙂 ) Am I missing anything apart from the steel sizing for the bridge framework and finish? Is the bridge over-engineered? We need to add a series of "struts" to extend the outer edge of the balcony to where it should be. The current I-beam is in three parts. The two joins in the middle connect to "perpendicular" I-beams. Each perpendicular I-beam (203 x 133 x ??) is supported on a square section post at the midpoint, and columns at the inner side of the balcony. The plan below shows this: Each blue line above is a proposed new "strut". Below is my proposed strut design to be provided to steel fabricators for quoting against. I'll have it red oxide painted (or will do it myself when it arrives) At the left hand end of the balcony there is an opening through a poured concrete wall. From this we propose to install a "bridge" that will connect the end of the balcony back to a level area of parking created using concrete lego bricks for a retaining wall. Below is the proposed framework for that bridge (the opening is somewhat taller than shown in the Side View). We will then "deck" the framework once installed. Bridge from balcony.pdf

We have a sloping ceiling in our open plan living area. Over the kitchen island we have 3 pendant lights that hang down. Each cable is about 1m. At each end of the cable there is a "grommet" on the fitting (i.e. at the ceiling rose, and the light "socket") that has a plastic grommet screw that holds the cable - these take the strain of the weight than the cable screws inside the fittings.

Hi Mark, That was me, which i corrected with the reference to the Carwow article. But that charger you mention sounds interesting. If it does turn out to work with non-V2H cars that could be a boost to this option.

One of the AI responses stated that an RCD was required. More research required on that point, and its something that I would require the charger installer to specify.