jamiehamy

We have the 410 in our current build and have two large units joined using same detail, works well, no fuss. The strip can be trimmed at the top with a multi cutter btw.

Is the roof SIP? If so, the moisture could be coming from there is it hadn't been stored right at any point. It's not unheard of. You do need a bone dry substrate for EPDM, I wouldn't be happy with a single day, but in April/May we do get nice long dry spells - if you get clear skies for 3 days that should dry the surfaces you need to bond to.

Your alternative looks nice - but don't underestimate the depth of the top chord of your posi joist - it'll be 100mm or more, so quite a gap. You can either chop up spare insulation and foam it in, or cut out slots in your internal/external insulation and 'slot' in the joiats and foam with airtight foam, wit the top flush to the top of the joist - and foam as you put on the board.

We've actually got 4 in the house! We've had them for years and love them - when we had a power outage for 3 days, we only needed to run one (2x3kWh output) and the house temperature was just fine. They are a luxury and we only use them when we feel like, but they do provide a decent heat output and nice atmosphere. We get fuel from here at the moment https://ekofuel.org/shop.html. I've just bought 48 litres.

No and no are the short two answers to the questions posed. Internorm won't say any different to JK, the whole unit will be compromised if you start trying to make changes to it, so they'll never entertain it. You could try any number if things but you're wasting your time, they'll never work well or properly.

The weight of the boards will have certainly contributed, along with the weight of a person moving about up there and whatever you have being stored. If the joists were not designed for an additional dead weight and active weight (or whatever the technical terms are!), then deflection will certainly occur (which it would regardless), and this will cause cracking at joints. If they were designed to be (in effect) habitable, or to have weight bearing, then this is a problem, but if not, then I'd recommend against storing anything else and contemplate taking everything out before you redo the joints.

Well said!

Preference is after. The gables are the tricky bit and trying to get concrete to go off but not too much whilst having it all plumb/straight at the same time and then get a wall plate and j bolts on was stressful. Doing the wall plate post pour was arguably more work (drilling )but was easier to do, and easier to do right.

view from inside.

We did something similar. The first time, we laid the wallplate on the poured concrete, this time we simply got the level and them secured the wallplate using resin bolts. As you can wee, we'd left enough ICF to be trimmed down flush to the top of the joists, then when the OSB went on, we used air tight foam, as well as between the joists and the ICF.

It's an interesting proposal. It's labour intensive and will be a messy PITA, but certainly do-able. My first thought is that you will have a 10mm gap between the Nudura and the frame, and so you will only lose a further 10mm of the window frame - is that such a problem? How will you secure the reveal timber to the metal bracket? It is going to be a self tapper through the timber into the bracket? Might look a bit messy? You could simply adhere the reveal timber to the cladding and use small pins to provide a bit more support, using something like CT1? For cutting EPS/XPS, I found out of a saw, hot wire cutter and a multi cutter, the multi cutter was by far the easiest and best finish.

That's the stuff. It's pretty 'belt and braces' tho, so I'm assuming you're going to use for things like lintels and jambs? I used it on both for our ICF build - we had a huge lintel for the garage door (4.7m) and it was shuttered with 18mm - and remained in situe until we fitted the door two years later and it was still useable for rough stuff. How are you planning propping your lintels, esp the big ones? I would be having 4 or 5 vertical 6x2s in there at least or acro props - it's some weight of concrete up there when it's not set, and you don't get a chance to 'sort' it once you spot it sagging! Assuming you're going to put a lot more bracing up before pour?

it'll be absolutely fine. 18mm WBP ply, will last a LONG time as I know from our shuttering, we ended up reusing it many times for other things after.

We ran Cat 5 (oir was it 6?) cables to most rooms on the first house - that was a complete waste of time, we've never used them. Most modern laptops don't have the ports any more and you're tied to one place. We have 3 Wifi extenders in the house and that fulfils all needs. Scrap the Cat. Wasted time and effort. So to answer your question directly - why bother having a WiFi router connected to a Cat 6 cable when you can use your electrical circuits to create a great WiFi network which will have Zero extra cost.

Bizarrely came across this topic just now...so we went ahead and finishing the exterior for winter then fit out for next year ..

Doing it again, I would use thermally broken fasteners on each corner as well as the adhesive. I suspect where it has happened maybe the board is very slightly warped and the edge is a mm up from the adjoining one.

Different builds! I think Alutrix was cheaper on the first one, that was all.

We have similar build up. PIR - we used tissue faced Kingspan TR27. VCL - We used both Alutrix 600 and Elotene DSN. Note - they both require a primer and the primers for each are different. These are 'self adhesive' and pretty easy to apply, although application of the primer is horrible. We have 18m T&B OSB3 (600x2400)as the base (first layer) - T&G much better because the joins can be mid span. 21mm will be very heavy and overkill. We didn't other with boards on top of the PIR, we contact adhered the EPDM to the tissue faced boards. Worked fine but can see the joins slightly.

ah, makes sense! Yeah, but EPS or XPS more likely to take a bond than the cut PIR I would say. That roof ain't going nowhere!

Love 'em! We've got 4 in the house and they are great on those cold nights when you want to feel cosy in front of a fire! 3 of the ones have a slider on the fore box and this lets you control the burn down - usually we let it go ful for ten mins then bring the flame down and it'll burn a liters for many hours. Also handy for emergencies as we are 100% electric, but haven't had to use in this situation yet. Our original plans were for WBS but these are much better. I posted pics on another thread somewhere a few years ago.

I doubt you'll get anything that will bond well to cut PIR - it's dusty and porous. EPS would be far better for this but will still be a challenge because of the rough cut edge. . That's a complex design and makes be wince to look at if I'm honest (and would rather just put it there for your consideration. What does the composite joist/roof section bear on and how is it tied down? Is a hidden gutter a real imperative? If so, it might be worth considering something a bit more robust, like forming the channel from timber and using EPDM to bond to the composite panel, down and line the channel and back up and over the batten for the cladding. You would still need the membrane protection underneath but you can get very long pieces of single rubber - you'd probably only need 400mm strips but that should be no bother to obtain. The design you have I think is inherently flawed - your assumption that water overflowing would go down the front is wrong - wind will blow it back.

Can I ask why the posi joists are propped in that picture? Given one of the propped bits in at a window, it can't be that a stud wall is going in - what's that about? I cannot see on the picture but are the joists resting on a wall place - or do they sit straight on the blockwork?

On your point around sound - Triple Glazing does not necessarily have better sound qualities than double per se. It's depends on what you specify. If sound reduction is important for you, then you would look for 'Acoustic Glass', which tends to be double glazing with thicker outer pane, smaller gap and normal inner pane. Triple most certainly is better for the u-value, but it's your decision - there's a trade off to be made. 'Acoustic' glass can reduce sound by easily more than ten decibels, which if you're in a busy area, might be better than the better insulation.

We used it for our house, then our (mostly underground) garage and have just started a house on top of the garage. Great product, easy to use and very robust. Can't really say much more than that! We never had any bursts during concrete pours btw - the garage walls were 250mm and we poured the full 3m with one pump (doing around 500mm each lap)

The benefits of all electric and some careful planning!