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Everything posted by Markblox
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If anyone does know of a small chain of specialist land convayancers in the Dorset, Somerset and Wiltshire areas please let me know. The online search is mainly for houses.
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Thanks for the info, I will have a search tomorrow.
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What accidents have you had while DIY'ing?!!
Markblox replied to mike2016's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Bit of a recurring theme , you do use goggles now, right? -
I am just about to contact the estate agent on Monday regarding a plot in the Somerset, Wiltshire area and need a solicitor for the land purchase and wonder if anyone can recommend one in that area please.
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And remember if on a TT system (Earth Electrode) the RCD must be double pole.
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You can also get bio degradable cubes or balls that are OK too. So get the drains in or the treatment plant in early if your camping on site, save a fortune on portal hire with a DIY long term build.
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Good point Russel, the normal blue liquid used wouldn't be any good but you can get biodegradable pellets or liquid or just use nothing at all, would need a water supply at that point in any case.
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Get your treatment plant in early so you have something to empty your caravan toilet cassette into, and until that is done hire a portaloo.
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Little things put a massive smile on my face sometimes
Markblox replied to ToughButterCup's topic in Lighting
No, but you get different sizes so you don't need to. Great to use in a wiring centre and you also have Wago boxes of different sizes including very small ones to use with downlights. Save a lot of time and pretty foolproof, just strip back 15mm of insulation. -
Little things put a massive smile on my face sometimes
Markblox replied to ToughButterCup's topic in Lighting
They were launched about three or four years ago and make all the difference when space is tight which is almost always! -
Minimum Reasonable wall width for good U values?
Markblox replied to puntloos's topic in Heat Insulation
Anyone have info regarding the decrement delay on the MBC 0.11 U value single wall as opposed to their cellulose filled twin wall. I know the twin wall with cellulose fill has a long delay but I would like to know what their best single wall system is like in comparison. -
Little things put a massive smile on my face sometimes
Markblox replied to ToughButterCup's topic in Lighting
They are domestic grade rather they commercial or industrial and H & S stipulate that they are only suitable for occasional use. -
Little things put a massive smile on my face sometimes
Markblox replied to ToughButterCup's topic in Lighting
I was working on a public library refurb once with a clerk of the works who was a right dick. The two toilets had become pyramids and there was a pair of steps like that that wobbled left to right as the hinge was knackered and the aluminium support had fallen out and been replaced by a piece of wood. I put it in the skip and told the C of W. Found it being used a couple of days later so folded the damn thing in half and chucked it in the skip again. The Polish were happy to use it though. -
Sounds like a good solution for both of you. That is completely different from someone just doing a very dodgy DIY job and then getting a ticket for it which is all too common. Any sparks will tell you that sorting out DIY bodges is not only common but a PITA and often expensive too.
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No, not limited scope. With that you can run in one new circuit I think but can't replace CU's. What I am talking about is a one off install but I might well be imagining it all, it's a memory that is right at the back of the head, just behind my right ear!
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Interesting reply, thanks. Right from the start of Part P it was criticised that qualified and competent people were screwed unless they belonged to a scheme. I was in a scheme and have 2360 and 2391 but am now very rusty and haven't got the latest ticket so it's a bit of a dilemma but I'm sure one way or the other it can be resolved and wonder if a three sig cert would work. From memory though the compliance notice is just a digital compliance notice and not a digital certificate that is lodged so that would indicate that perhaps it could be done. I seem to remember that you can do one off Part P certification but I would have to take the latest exam so probably best to get a friendly Part P electrician to inspect visually, and test random circuits that I have done, a bit like the annual Part P inspector test. Bit away into the future as negotiating at the moment for a plot in North Dorset area for a small plot about a dozen miles West South West of you.
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Although Part P is designed for the electrician to design, install, test and certify installation, unless I'm wrong (entirely possible), a three part certificate can always be used where the design, installation and testing has separate signatures. The regs don't say that you must be qualified but do say you must be a competant person. Please give me your thoughts as to the three sig cert as I don't know the score with a domestic installation.
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Yes, if proper testing is done then fair enough, but as you know there is often so little testing done. The only time all tests are or should be carried out is when the install is new but I have seen new installs fired up and left with a so called tester arriving a few days later and plugging in a socket and see and basically making up the rest of the info. Unbelievable but I'm sure you have seen all that before now Dave.
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Well most don't. They pull all sorts of strokes and maybe it is so common that others think that is the right way. It doesn't make it right and it doesn't make it safe, just normal.
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Not often, but they should do it after first fix to prove no faults exist. Lot of extra work so they usually don't bother and faults are often found a lot later or latent faults are never found as a result.
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The proper testing should be done during and on completion . Not just after second fix.
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That may well show up dead shorts but not faults that would trip a circuit breaker, RCD or start a fire. The insulation resistance test uses 500V to make sure the electrons don't jump from one conductor to another. Also the test results have to appear on the certificate.
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I remember at college the tutor saying that 60% of wiring faults occur on installation and cable burn must be high up the list. Although Part P is designed for the electrician to design, install, test and certify installation, unless I'm wrong (entirely possible), a three part certificate can always be used where the design, installation and testing has separate signatures. The regs don't say that you must be qualified but do say you must be a competant person. Please give me your thoughts as to the three sig cert as I don't know the score with a domestic installation.
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Choosing first mains electricity supplier.
Markblox replied to epsilonGreedy's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
I didn't mention building regs, just said court of law, as in what might result from a fire or electric shock. Just saying that although the regs are not law themselves, compliance with them will be deemed to be within the law. More of a health and safety thing. Anyway, as you have pointed out it is off topic a bit but is related to what EpsilonGreedy was insisting on. -
Good idea to test it. The regs say "test during and on completion", and it isn't supposed to be optional! These dead tests include continuity and insulation resistance tests and the IR uses a specialist tester and you also need to know how to use it and with rings it is also a bit complex re the continuity test so I would advise you use wago's as previously described and get the sparks in who is going to sign off the work to test it because he will need to record the results on the installation certificate. Doing it this way will also give you piece of mind and will mean when you energise the circuits you don't have to worry about a bang or the RCD tripping which is always a good thing. Also good point re cable position.