Jenni

My muddy mutts currently get cold hosed outside. In my ongoing barn conversion project I plan on having a thermostatic valve inside, so the outside tap is tepid/warm. Just attach hosepipe and water spray gun to that as normal and they can be grateful it's not as cold as before! Patio laid to fall toward gravel, after hosing dogs, rinse off that area of patio.

I've only cut 1 hole so far, but used a 135mm cutter, like this - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154027640313

At least the spec sheet for fridges/freezers have a decibel rating. I've been looking at ovens, and none of them even mention sound, though I'm aware they can be loud and varied.

Well blow me, I fired off an email to Underfloor Heating Trade Supplies to ask about fittings, not expecting a reply until Monday at the earliest, but I have a reply already. https://www.underfloorheatingtradesupplies.co.uk/32mm-pex-al-pex-compression-to-28mm-copper-compression.html Can anyone forsee any issues if I use this 32mm pipe and the compression fittings to attach to 28mm copper?

I assumed that having 1.5" outlet on the trap would remove the advantages of fitting 50mm pipework. Is this not the case?

Hi, I hope it's ok to add to this thread. I've been reading this forum for a while now and trying to learn and remember things to help with my barn conversion build. It's often advised to install 50mm pipe, and Mcalpine traps are recommended. I've installed the 50mm pipe but am now struggling to find a 90mm top access trap with 2" outlet, they all seems to be for 1.5" pipe. Could anyone link to one please?

It seems the 32mm pex-al-pex linked above is a comparible price to 28mm Hep2o, are there any reasons not to use the larger diameter pipe? Are fittings available to connect 32mm pex-al-pex to copper pipe? I worry that if I use the 28mm as you guys suggest, if there are any issues with the system, the supplier will site the 'incorrect' pipe and I'll be left high and dry.

It's a NIBE F2040-8 About 18m

I need to put copper through the wall, I think those tails can be curved so that the plastic that comes down the internal wall joins it straight. The plastic is then straight with a few sweeps round to the uvc. This is my worry. I'd rather overspec now than find issues later on. That second link looks like just the thing. Thank you. ? I've found some on a 50m roll, but the smaller inner diameter is a risk I don't want to take. Thank you all for replying. Hopefully the stuff in Conors link will be suitable.

Hello. My pipework from the ASHP to the UVC and 2 manifolds is spec'd to be 28mm copper. I've spoken to several plastic pipe suppliers, who all say the plastic is smaller internal than copper. I checked with my heating designer, they say not to risk the restriction and to either use 28mm copper or up size the plastic. I'm keen to use plastic due to the reduced joins involved. My pipe runs are unavoidably long, hence the diameter. Am I stuck with copper or is there an alternative? Thanks.

That's such a relief. Thank you all ?

Hi. I'm doing much of the internal construction of a barn conversion myself. A builder got the shell structurally sound and watertight, they and my builders merchants assure me that using roofing battens on the inside will be fine / is completely normal. But I can't help but shake a nagging thought that the blue will somehow leach through the plasterboard and show on the finished ceiling. Am I worrying over nothing? Or, should I cut my loses now and replace what I've done so far with something else? Pic of a vaulted ceiling almost ready for plasterboard -

Thanks for the picture ProDave, I'll add it to my file, they're so helpful when it comes to biting the bullet and starting a job / getting a Job done.

Thanks for the heads up on the price, I'll have a good scout around before buying. It's thanks to BuildHub numbers that I'm focusing on Hudson Reed, I just prefer the completely round knobs to the ones you guys have. Interesting the link you post gives an option of with diverter or without. So it seems I need one without, though I wonder if I got one with diverter, how would the unit be different, and could it function with just 2 outlets in use?

Hello. Please could you help me understand concealed shower valves. I'm looking for one that will run an overhead rose and a small hand shower. I've found this that I like https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/hudson-reed-round-triple-concealed-thermostatic-shower-valve-with-diverter-rndtr03 When I read the information about it, I think the middle knob sets the temperature, and the 2 other knobs are one for each of 2 outlets. But, it says it diverts to a third outlet. Can anyone explain please?

Can't comment on the level threshold thoughts. But have you considered polished concrete? We chose it as very hard wearing, wanted same throughout and minimal grout lines. It also saved a lot of ££££ over tiles.

Thanks for this thread jfb, I was going to ask similar questions this week, specifically about safe zones in ceilings, that ProDave has kindly already covered. Also safe zone related - are there any rules about how close cables can run adjacent to and over top of a door or window?

Thank you Onoff, it's the bottom channel I'm particularly interested in, these photos are great, how do find it is with leaves / random stones down there? My concept is to use the slight slope and gravity, build a gateparallelogram gate that rolls either on a tongue as you have, or a simple wheel in a channel. It would want to be at the bottom of the slope by default, therefore closed, and you just push it up the slope to open it. I have seen one before, even took a video of it in action, but can't seem to find it now.

I'd be interested to know your thoughts on alternative channels please. I'm mulling over a sliding gate option. (sorry for off topic)

We used black Bedec barn paint, was really lovely to use. Can't comment on long term, only been on 15 months.

For cluster flies we find regular use of foggers helps. For big flies we've had great success with "Red Top" catchers.

Thank you both. Shame items aren't consistently advertised, some list the radius and give detailed spec, others don't, very annoying.

We tried jigsaw blades. The slower you take it the straighter the cut, very clean but they blunt very quickly then stink as they struggle. In the end went back to normal toothed hand saw, fast and straight, sadly very messy.

Our BCO insisted on (what I considered) an excessive number of ridge vents, also he said minimal 50mm air gap under the felt.

Hello. Is it possible, or unadvisable to buy a tray separately from the enclosure? My preference would be to buy together, but the enclosures I like seem to match with trays that have the waste in the 'wrong' place for my plumbing. I'm going to have an offset quadrant, either 1200x900 or slightly smaller (yet to be decided). Thanks.