junglejim

Kind of similar to here:

Thanks. No pictures but will be on site later so will try and send something. The outside face of the widow is pretty much flush to the timber frame so the reveal trims will be attached to the cladding battens.

Looks good. I’m about to do This and struggling to work out how to fix the top timber reveal and the drip. My window is flush to the opening in the timber frame so the reveal will need to attach to the battens so can’t work out how to attach the drip and the reveal. Also interested whether you can share your drip design as looking to get something made up too. many thanks

@Mr Punter @Roundtuit @scottishjohn

Looking at this again as trying to work out how to make this work… My windows/doors are pretty much flush to the opening so the reveal will need to attach to the battens. I can’t work out how to put a head drip and reveal in at the top as they would interfere with each other… ideally would like timber reveal all the way around. Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks @Roundtuit@Gone West@Mr Punter

I’ve just started setting out my battens for cladding on my timber frame house and wondering about a couple of things. 1. Finish for breather membrane… should I cut it flush with the sole plate as architects drawing implies or overhang slightly… my instinct is to overhang and also lap over the render once done but I’m not sure what the proper way to finish is… does it need taping? obviously need clear drainage. 2. board overhang bottom of batten: the insect mesh (90degree strip) I’m using is slightly wider than the batten so seems to be neat to drop the bottom row of cladding so that the mesh can sit in groove at the back of the cladding board and make a sit tight all the way along. However it would mean that the bottom of the cladding is about 45mm below the sole plate. Is this ok or do I need to rethink? 3. The ground level and the house needs digging down Ava French drain installing. Aiming to sand/cement render the slab when this is done but will likely be after cladding… can anyone foresee any problems? Thanks for everyone’s help. (Happy Christmas and new year to all)

Thanks that’s interesting as hadn’t really considered the airflow above the openings… I was going to put a head drip, insect mesh and cladding but will obviously need to consider how much gap there is… ideally don’t want too much but will need enough for air to flow. Any further advice/pictures would be really helpful. Thank you

I’m about to start battening out for timber cladding and curious about the detail around windows/doors. I’ve seen lots of pictures like the one attached that show battens across the top of the opening but if there’s water behind the cladding that would seem to prevent drainage. Am I missing something here? Thank you

Update: I’ve spoken to the designer and engineer who have both confirmed that the glulam ridge beam is a physically restraining the gable (timber frame) so nothing to worry about…. Educational and stressful self building 😜 Thank you for all of the comments and advice.

Thanks @joe90 good advice. Probably worrying about nothing as on closer inspection looks like the roof ladder is screwed into gable and rafters ends are nailed together but would rather air on the side of caution and double/triple check before closing it all up 👍

Thank you that’s all useful. Bit of a can of worms… trusting that the TF company installed the frame as needed and BC haven’t said anything so may be worrying unnecessarily but… the wall plates are basically anchored with bolts into the slab through the sole plate. I can’t see any straps… is that necessary. (Note no block work just Timber frame on raft slab.

Thanks. Am I correct in understanding that this would be to strap the rafters together… I think the engineer recommended the rafter brackets at the top. They’re also mechanically fixed with nails at the rafter ends and osb sheathing presumably gives additional strength etc. If straps are needed too at least that’s fairly easy at this stage. My concern was more the gable ends and what is needed. I’ve emailed the designer and engineer for advice but would welcome any thoughts on here. Thank you

Thanks yes have structural drawings but can’t see anything specifying ties to be used. I will go back to the designer though to see as originally this work was to be carried out and overseen by the TF company so there may be more that I don’t have.

Thanks. That’s good to know. Maybe it’s me just not used to this but this was 40mph and we’re fairly regularly get 60+ so slightly worried what that will look like. (Ignore the internal drips …. Haven’t sealed the top yet 😬 My Movie 1-1080p30H.mov

Shared some dimensions. Yes I think it’s been designed with heavier and more timbers than necessary.

Thanks yes will go back to the designer. Looking back at the designs I can’t see any straps specified. I’m wondering if it’s because the panel above the window is so small that it doesn’t need much and is has a structural pocket so the ridge glulam is essentially holding it together… I’d prefer something else though! The main structure is below the window and tied into the side walls and floor so not an issue. Any further advice welcome.

Thanks for the suggestions. I’m wondering about taking out the bottom 2” of noggin and then adding a soffit vent underneath. Do you think that would work?

window is SW facing. 40-50mph today but that’s fairly common here so not concerned what it will be like when we get to 70+ which is a few times a year. The window is approx 2 x 1.5m

Thanks. Going to go back to the manufacturer & installer to see what they say but keen to strap up. If still got temporary timber ties in place so not worried about it going anywhere yet. The ridge glulam is going to be exposed so can’t strap along there where it will be exposed . I can go onto the horizontal glulam. Would welcome any advice. Thank you

I don’t know that this needs anything extra but it was recommended by the supplier as we’re in a windy location. I’m just looking for advice on how to tie in. I’m going to take out the small brackets that were temporarily put in as will interfere with the osb but looking for suggestions of how to strap the gable into the roof structure effectively and without interfering with anything. Thanks

Just wondering if it’s normal for double glazed window glass to flex in the wind? We have one large window on the gable end that the glass is visibly flexing in the wind so I’m wondering if this is likely to be a problem or not?

I’m still trying to work out the insulation ventilation detail. We have a large overhanging roof along the side if the house but will need to enable ventilation above the insulation. The challenge is creating this ventilation gap and working out the best way to do it as the noggins are close to the external wall (see photo). My thought is to over run the rigid insulation beyond the wall plate to butt up against the noggin. Then drill holes in the top of the noggin and vent from there. however I’m also thinking that this would prevent air from exiting top of the cladding So any thoughts or suggestion would be really appreciated. Thanks for all the advice.

Still looking for advice on this if anyone is able to share any expertise? Thanks

Thinking of getting a mixture of the stainless flexible mesh and this closure: https://weatherboardsupplies.co.uk/product/30mm-x-40mm-perforated-closure-2-5m/ any reason to go for one vs the other. I’d use the angled trims above and below battens and flexi mesh at other openings. Wondering if the difference in material is significant but clearly both made for the job. Really appreciating everyone’s insights and advice, thank you