junglejim

Thanks @Ericyes doing similar but just not sure how to finish the eaves end… not sure what you mean sitting on the wall head?

Considering cutting notches out of the end of the insulation for air and then pushing right to the back of the sub fascia… what do you think ?

Thanks that sounds good but in this case the walls are timber frame cassettes so no cavity and boxed in.

I’m insulating between rafters of our timber frame and trying to work out the best way of finishing at the eaves/wall plate. Currently extending over the wall plate to the eaves box allowing for 50mm ventilation gap but wondering if I need to close in or seal the ends of the rigid insulation in any way or whether it’s ok as it is. Thank you for any advice.

Thank you. That’s helpful. Does you find it interfered with the battens at all or pushed out the cladding?

That’s interesting. Did you take that behind the battens ands back to the membrane? Do you have any pictures you’d be happy to share? Ta

Thanks @Annker I’m interested in the edpm detail. Was that edpm tape? If so which one? Also did you run that over the top of the reveal board? thanks

Looking for advice on cladding around windows and doors. We’re building a timber frame house. We’ve just had windows in. I’m ordering the cladding and hoping to begin fitting in the next few weeks. I’ve seen various ways of doing the reveals. I’m particularly interested in the head detail. Itb looks like most overhang the cladding over the reveal board so that water can shed off but I’ve also seen folks use lead and aluminium drip edges to bring water away from the head reveal. Looking for any advice and pictures. We have a couple of large windows/bifold doors so wondering if this is more of an issue here to ensure any water sheds away from the structure? Thanks

@ProDave @markc @Gone WestReally useful reading this. I’m about to order cladding materials and will be fitting in a couple of weeks. I’m using a mixture of horizontal and vertical cladding. I like the over sail suggestion at the top. That makes sense. I’m curious whether there is also a head flashing detail that needs considering. Also for the side reveals I hadn’t thought of over sail. Is there an advantage to this? I’m also wondering if there are any different considerations for horizontal cladding? thanks

My understanding is that for vented svp I can go down to 75mm pipe. Is this internal or external diameter? I’m struggling to find this. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Many thanks

I’m building a timber frame home. we have a large opening at the back for bifold doors which is framed with an RSJ. The window installers have said they can’t fit until this is sheathed in wood so looking for advice on the best way to do this. Externally I was going to add wool insulation, noggins then osb but haven’t really thought about bringing this into the reveal. Any advice etc greatly appreciated. Thank you

Thank you for all of the advice so far. i don’t know if this complicates it at all but also worth noting that our sewage and grey water will go to a small pumping chamber sink in the drive which in turn pumps to the main sewer. @Iceverge @ProDave @tuftythesquirrel @Conor

Thanks Conor, that’s interesting. I mentioned that to a plumber who said bc would need external vented svp… do you know where I can find more info about this?

Hi, I’m looking for the best route/method to install the svp. My understanding is that it needs to be 3m from a window opening so will need to go between rafters and exit the roof near the ridge. The roof construction is osb, rafters with rigid insulation between rafters then osb beneath rafters And another layer of insulation. Cutting through this to install an svp feels counter intuitive and could introduce cold bridging… does anyone have any advice in the best way to install, products etc to maintain thermal efficiency. Thanks

Sorry no pics …. Can take some at the weekend. The main roof is on and timber for hip and overhangs is being fitted soon so trying to work out the best way of tiling this section.

I’m doing my own roof and ok so far with all the straight edges but the detail on this end is a bit more technical so I’m looking for advice on how to do this. The roof will be osb solid deck with membrane, counter battens and battens. I’m wondering how best to create the hip and match it in to the roof and also any tips on joining the front porch overhang to timber frame? Thank you in advance for any advice.

Hoping someone can give me some suggestions on this? Thanks

I’m doing my own roof and ok so far with all the straight edges but the detail on this end is a bit more technical so I’m looking for advice on how to do this. The roof will be osb solid deck with membrane, counter battens and battens. I’m wondering how best to create the hip and match it in to the roof and also any tips on joining the front porch overhang to timber frame? Thank you in advance for any advice.

@nod thanks for help. Also any tips on putting the vcl flashing up underneath my breather membrane above the window which is beneath the counter battens? Presumably need to cut back the counter battens to accommodate? Thanks. Appreciate all the tips before I get stuck in.

I’m in the process of roofing our cassette roof (osb sandwich) on new timber frame build…. Felted, counter battens and tile battens are in. I haven’t started tiling yet but will be soon (sandtoft rivius). I’m hoping to start fitting velux tomorrow but have a question… The window openings have been pre made in the factory. Windows are in several different positions so setting out tiles to windows is unlikely to work for all and I’ve already set out horizontal battens based on optimum gauge for my roof (310mm) As the window position is fixed I’m wondering if there’s anything I can take into account to ensure sufficient overlap between flashing and tiles at the bottom and top of the window and ensuring sufficient width of tiles either side. Or… as I suspect will be the case… when I tile, what should I take into consideration? All advice and learning gratefully received.

Thank you for all the tips 👍

Thanks @Dave Jonesand @joe90 That was my initial thought but worried about splitting the batten end by needing to nail it so close to the end. Joining in a counter batten only gives the ends 25mm to nail into. my maximum spacing between counter battens is 400mm and a number of gaps are more like 300 (and a few even less) so wondering if it’s better to have ends between the counter battens so that the ends are overhanging. I wonder if a 150mm overhang is better than nailing close to the end. I figure there must be regulations on maximum allowable unsupported overhang but I can’t find anything.

Curious what the best way to join roof batten ends? They are laid over 50mm wide counter battens. Note sure whether to share a counter batten each overlapping 25mm or whether I need to double up the counter batten?

Soups = Should 😜

I’ve lapped breather membrane over the ridge and will be fitting dry fix vented ridge tiles. I’m hearing mixed opinions about whether I soups cut the felt at the ridge or not. The roof is osb Cassette with 50mm vent gap between insulation and osb… any suggestions? Layers above osb are: membrane, counter batten, tile battens, tiles Advice greatly appreciated 👍