junglejim

Trying to find out the optimum nail spacing for vertical counter battens fixed to rafters. I’m thinking 400mm ish?

Ps. In this diagram the fascia is flush to the roof sheathing… this would seem to make sense as the breather membrane is below the counter battens so wouldn’t want to create a lip that could trap water. Am I right with that?

I’m preparing to roof my timber frame build. The rafters are up to 15mm different in distance from the wall. I’m unsure how to proceed with sub fascia and/or fascia to ensure everything is level and ready for the roof. I’m tempted to go for wood fascia/soffit rather than covering in pvc. 2 problems I have: 1. Rafter lengths up to 15mm different 2. osb overhanging rafter slightly so attaching directly to rafter would result in tilt. A few other notes: I haven’t clad the walls yet. I’m unsure whether I can get away with tiling the roof first but realise it will be easier if the fascia is on. i could trim the osb so that I can fix directly to rafter ends. I’m unsure dimensions of wood needed. Any tips greatly appreciated as always.

Thank you that’s helpful

Thanks that sounds like a good solution… can you suggest a grout?

That would be logical but they’ve finished on site!

Just spotted this on my newly erected timber frame build and wondered if I should be concerned? Surely there’s a neater way of doing this… slight worried that BC might have an issue? Thanks

That’s helpful. Yes I was wondering about the width because larch is generally narrow.

Thanks, the larch sounds good. Do you have any drawings showing the eaves detail for this… I’m wondering if I can do this after laying the roof.

Thanks. And does the vent strip need to sit ontop of the fascia or can it go slightly back onto a batten? I’d like to get tiles on but still deciding about fascia so hoping to avoid adding the fascia until later.

Decisions…. I feel quite pushed towards pvc facia and soffits by architect/bc etc but would much prefer to use a nice looking timber. I’m about to lay the roof but as it’s osb cassette I’m thinking I can add the fascia later and have some time to decide…although maybe not quite as easy as doing first? I’m looking for advice and what profiles thoughts are… I realise there’s more maintenance with wood but would much prefer the natural look. I’m sure there’s lots of opinions on this so looking forward to some helpful advice. Thank you

Thanks that’s useful. We’ll be fitting tiles too so that’s good to know. Opening a can of worms here but does that mean we don’t need half tiles on bottom row and can get away with starting with a full tile? Presumably this is ok because they are interlocking?

Many thanks… most people I have asked have suggested doing fascia/soffit first but I’m not sure why. Here’s a drawing that is more similar to what we will need. It looks like the eaves ventilation strip is doing the job of supporting the lower tiles… is that correct?

Thanks struggling to picture this in osb sheathed roof?

I’m also trying to work out what height to make the fascia board… presumably ideal is height from bottom of rafter to underside of tiles. Is there any reason why I can’t fit this last?

Thanks Joe… so am I right in thinking an extra batten rather than tilt filet is ok?

Thank you yes I think the issue with the architects drawing is that it’s from prior to timber frame company designing cassette roof. I’m wondering then about the tilt fillet and whether this is necessary… if so when to install? Presumably any tilt of tiles is achieved by battens. Am I missing something? Thanks

Thanks for the reply. My understanding is that because it’s osb roof I will need counter battens before battens otherwise if water gets in it’ll be trapped behind battens. Do I need to use the fascia to lift the first foot of tiles or is there another way?

In trying to work out eaves tray and fascia details. Here’s the drawing from my architect but seems to be missing the counter battens. Presumably the eaves tray will need to lay under the counter battens which means it’s the first thing I need to install, even prior to membrane. Am I right in thinking this? Also wondering if the fascia backer board should fix directly to rafter ends but in this picture it appears there are battens attached to rafter ends and then the fascia board. Any thoughts/advice very welcome. Thank you

I’m about to lay membrane and then counter batten a cassette roof (osb). I’ll be fixing battens through to rafters. I’m wondering if I should cut the batten flush to the bottom of the cassette or extend over or finish short. Any thoughts? cheers

I’m going to be laying breather membrane (Tyvek) before counter battening onto osb cassette roof. I’m planning on laying horizontally working up from the bottom fixing in place with staples and then counter battens. As I’m working up the roof I’ll try to stand above the membrane but my question is whether it’s ok to walk on the membrane and whether it will hold before counter battens are in place? Thank you for any tips.

I’m trying to find installation instructions for fitting velux into sip roof with manufactured roof openings. I’ll be adding counter battens and battens for tiling so trying to work out whether I need extra around the window or if it fits directly into osb and also which sequence to do things. Thanks

Thanks. The architect has specified on building control drawings that svp needs to terminate min 900mm vertically above top height of velux which puts it up at ridge level. For reason I’m assuming I will need a through pipe but unsure what would be suitable.

I’m roofing with Sandtoft Rivius clay tiles. I have to run an svp pipe and also a stove flue through the roof (separate parts of the roof and tiles). The roof is 18mm osb/cassettes. Can anyone recommend best way of doing this? thanks

Too much reading is a bad thing… really worried now that internal walls below ffl isn’t good and may beach regs despite all parties agreeing; architect, engineer, timber frame company. anyone able to put my mind at rest?