junglejim

Yes agreed… this is my quandary. But does having the vent beneath the tray and membrane affect air flow?

Thanks… does that not compromise air flow between the counter battens? (Sheathed osb roof) @nod

Trying to figure out from this picture which side of the air vent the tray goes.

This is what it looks like above the drip tray but screw holes would comprise the tray and would also make replacing the fascia very difficult if needed in future. However I’d the vent goes underneath then the tray/membrane will be blocking the air gap between counter battens

Trying to figure out whether the drip tray can go over the above fascia vent. That seems to fit together easiest but would seem to block free flow of air between counter battens. Roof: osb - membrane - counter batten - tile batten

Hoping someone can offer some advice? 🤞

I’m hoping someone can offer some advice. I’m a bit confused about the fascia detail and order of layers on a cassette roof. my layers are: osb cassette - breather membrane - counter batten - batten at the eaves I have rafter ends - battens - fascia with a fascia vent above and a drip tray tucked under the membrane. I’m trying to work out how to ensure any water has a smooth run over the fascia. 1. Should counter battens go all the way to the edge of the cassette? 2. Does the drip tray go on top of the over fascia vent or underneath? 3. Usually the fascia would be pushed up to the underside of the tiles but I would have thought doing that in this instance would force the membrane uphill. The only way I can think to negate this is to finish counter battens early. I feel like I going down a rabbit hole and there must be an easy solution. Hopefully someone can help. Many thanks

Trying to find out the optimum nail spacing for vertical counter battens fixed to rafters. I’m thinking 400mm ish?

Ps. In this diagram the fascia is flush to the roof sheathing… this would seem to make sense as the breather membrane is below the counter battens so wouldn’t want to create a lip that could trap water. Am I right with that?

I’m preparing to roof my timber frame build. The rafters are up to 15mm different in distance from the wall. I’m unsure how to proceed with sub fascia and/or fascia to ensure everything is level and ready for the roof. I’m tempted to go for wood fascia/soffit rather than covering in pvc. 2 problems I have: 1. Rafter lengths up to 15mm different 2. osb overhanging rafter slightly so attaching directly to rafter would result in tilt. A few other notes: I haven’t clad the walls yet. I’m unsure whether I can get away with tiling the roof first but realise it will be easier if the fascia is on. i could trim the osb so that I can fix directly to rafter ends. I’m unsure dimensions of wood needed. Any tips greatly appreciated as always.

Thank you that’s helpful

Thanks that sounds like a good solution… can you suggest a grout?

That would be logical but they’ve finished on site!

Just spotted this on my newly erected timber frame build and wondered if I should be concerned? Surely there’s a neater way of doing this… slight worried that BC might have an issue? Thanks

That’s helpful. Yes I was wondering about the width because larch is generally narrow.

Thanks, the larch sounds good. Do you have any drawings showing the eaves detail for this… I’m wondering if I can do this after laying the roof.

Thanks. And does the vent strip need to sit ontop of the fascia or can it go slightly back onto a batten? I’d like to get tiles on but still deciding about fascia so hoping to avoid adding the fascia until later.

Decisions…. I feel quite pushed towards pvc facia and soffits by architect/bc etc but would much prefer to use a nice looking timber. I’m about to lay the roof but as it’s osb cassette I’m thinking I can add the fascia later and have some time to decide…although maybe not quite as easy as doing first? I’m looking for advice and what profiles thoughts are… I realise there’s more maintenance with wood but would much prefer the natural look. I’m sure there’s lots of opinions on this so looking forward to some helpful advice. Thank you

Thanks that’s useful. We’ll be fitting tiles too so that’s good to know. Opening a can of worms here but does that mean we don’t need half tiles on bottom row and can get away with starting with a full tile? Presumably this is ok because they are interlocking?

Many thanks… most people I have asked have suggested doing fascia/soffit first but I’m not sure why. Here’s a drawing that is more similar to what we will need. It looks like the eaves ventilation strip is doing the job of supporting the lower tiles… is that correct?

Thanks struggling to picture this in osb sheathed roof?

I’m also trying to work out what height to make the fascia board… presumably ideal is height from bottom of rafter to underside of tiles. Is there any reason why I can’t fit this last?

Thanks Joe… so am I right in thinking an extra batten rather than tilt filet is ok?

Thank you yes I think the issue with the architects drawing is that it’s from prior to timber frame company designing cassette roof. I’m wondering then about the tilt fillet and whether this is necessary… if so when to install? Presumably any tilt of tiles is achieved by battens. Am I missing something? Thanks