junglejim

I’ve read somewhere about using staples ands tape to attach membrane and mark stud locations. In struggling to picture this. Any ideas?

Should joints between panels be taped? I’ve read contradicting advice in this. Thinking specifically about the roof at the moment but figure it’s relevant all over? Thanks

Looking for recommendations on how to attach the breather membrane beneath counter batten. I’m thinking staples but worried about compromising the fabric. any tips?

Thanks for all the advice… seems like conflicting opinions screws vs nails still. I’m inclined to agree with the arguments for screws but is there any issues with penetrating the insulation?

Thanks all. Managed to dig a little deeper today… the pit looks excessive but means there’s 70cm above the top crate which should be easily doable… next job is to get a silt trap… any recommendations welcome.

Grass on top… drawings say 300mm above crates but aware that’s not enough for the fall depth.

Hoping someone can offer some advice as will be installing tomorrow. Thanks

I’m digging a Soakaway and wondering about where to place the inlet pipe and how shallow the runs from downpipes can be. The architect has drawn rain water run with 1:80. The longest run is from a French drain and down pipe at the front of the house… approx 30m to Soakaway by this meant the pipe will be about 40cm deep when meeting the Soakaway however assuming that the French drain is at least 150mm then we’re looking at 55cm deep but I suspect will be slightly deeper as 150mm seems shallow. So allowing for a slight increase I think the pipe is likely to come in near the top of the second layer of the Soakaway (3 layers deep.) is this going to be a problem… i don’t really want to do any deeper as already have 1.5m deep to accommodate 3x36cm deep crates. I also need to install a silt trap and conscious that the inlet is likely to be higher than the Rainwater pipe at the moment unless I can extend the silt trap somehow…any help/ideas welcome. thanks

Just about to build our timber frame house with cassette panels and looking for information about fixing counter battens etc. does anyone have any further information/advice. I was trying to find a the document mentioned but can’t see a link… any help/advice greatly appreciated. many thanks

Looking at the roof cassette designs from my timber frame company it appears as though there is no ridge beam. That makes sense with the panels joining flush but if there’s no ridge beam I’m wondering how to fix the roof dry ridge tiles which would ordinarily go into the ridge beam?

I’m trying to get advice on fixing counter battens to 18mm osb cassette roof. I’ve read some articles suggesting they should be screwed rather than nailed but others saying nails are ok. Any advice welcome? Thanks

Thanks @saveasteading the engineer specified a silt trap presumably to improve efficiency of the soakaway? Any thoughts on how much distance from top of crates to surface? Thanks

Looking at building the soakaway for new build timberframe. Our engineer has recommended 5.6 x 1.2 x 1.2m . Comments from builders are that this is excessive but we do have slow draining clayish soil so likely going to work close to this. I'm ok with digging the trench and the general construction but wondering how far below the surface of the lawn the top of the crates should be. We're also going to install a silt trap so not sure whether this will also affect the depth at all. Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks

We’re having a timber frame with cassette roof erected soon. I’m going to be tackling the roofing myself and looking for information / advice / tips about layers, materials and details. My understanding is that I will need to add: 1. breather membrane 2. counter batten 3. Battens 4. Tiles (Wienerberger Rivius) Questions I have: - what’s the best way to secure membrane to osb? - do I need an extra breather membrane between batten and counter batten? - What kind of fixings should I use to attach counter battens to roof cassette (18mm osb top layer)? - what kind of fixings batten to counter batten? - tips on eaves/verge details - any sequencing tips particularly eaves lots of learning to do so any help greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance

Edit: 18mm osb

I’ve also seen some diagrams that show no soffit on cassette roof eaves detail as the cassette essentially is the soffit (I think)… an I missing something?

Thanks @Mr Punter I won’t be able to add cladding/render to the walls until much later so hoping I can allow for this when doing soffit? With cassette roof to cassette walls I’m assuming only ventilation is over fascia but struggling to find a diagram that shows what is needed clearly. Thank you

We’re having a timber frame with cassette roof erected soon. I’m going to be tackling the roofing myself and looking for information / advice / tips about layers, materials and details. My understanding is that I will need to add: 1. breather membrane 2. counter batten 3. Battens 4. Tiles (Wienerberger Rivius) Questions I have: - do I need an extra breather membrane between batten and counter batten? - What kind of fixings should I use to attach counter battens to roof cassette (12mmosb top layer)? - what kind of fixings batten to counter batten? - tips on eaves/verge details - any sequencing tips particularly eaves lots of learning to do so any help greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance

I'm building a new timber frame home. Walls will be osb on the outside so will need fishing with vapour barrier, battens, render boards, render. I'm considering installing the render boards myself (with help from family/friends). A local company that has also quoted for the render has advised against this so I'm wondering if this is something that's beyond the diy job or not? I realise boards will be heavy but from what I can tell installation isn't too difficult. I'm pretty happy researching and trying my hand at most things. Does anyone have any advice or experience of doing this yourself? Thanks

I’m about to embark on building our own house. Much of the work will be done ourselves but we have a contractor to lay foundations (raft slab) and another to build the timber frame. I’m wondering if I can split the project into these 2 distinct phases so that contractors are not on site at the same time and therefore easier to manage in terms of CDM? Presumably by only having one contractor on site each will assume principle contractor responsibility for their phase?

@Nick Sheppard just seen another of your posts…. Are you able to offer advice here? Thanks

I know this has been discussed lots and I’ve read many but would like direct advice on our project… We are about to demolish (ourselves) our existing bungalow and replace with a timber frame house. We will be using 1 company to do groundwork/foundations. Another company will supply/erect the frame to wind/watertight membrane. I’m going to do as much as possible myself, prepping site, roof, first fix etc. I had a meeting on site this week with architect, engineer, groundwork company and timber frame company. There were lots of questions/comments about CDM responsibilities; who is construction manager etc. I was more than a little daunted as haven’t really explored this. Slightly happier after reading up but would like to know where my responsibilities lie, tips on making this smooth and any useful resources. Thank you in advance for everyone’s help/advice.