junglejim

Thanks for the advice @Russdl yes that looks like the most versatile and cost effective but angled strips also look easier to install but I’m a bit confused shift the dimensions… they come in multiple of 10 but battens are 38mm or 25mm so seems like it’ll either overhang or leave a gap… I must be missing something. 🤷‍♂️

Just resurrecting this thread because I’m about to start cladding and have overlooked the mesh. I’m going for a mixture of horizontal and vertical timber cladding. Not sure where to go for the stainless mesh roll or cedral closure… also unsure about fitting despite watching the above video. Any advice and help greatly appreciated as will need to order tomorrow. Thank you

I’m looking at this dry verge by Kytun for tiles. I can see this working for thin slates but for l tiles (flat profile) there will essentially be a step where each tile overlaps the one beneath which means there would be a large gap into the dry verge where water could easily get in… am in missing something?

Thank you for the advice. Yes I have counter batten and then batten… sorry not very good at drawing 😂 that was my thought on venting and several people have said the same which is reassuring. My concern was whether Warner air would accumulate at the top and condense but my assumption is like you say the differential pressure one side to the other will ensure air flow.

thanks @scottishjohn sorry I’m not being very clear basically a normal roof but sections made in the factory and then assembled on site. It’s a cold roof. yes vaulted ceilings. The roof layup from inside to out is: plasterboard - batten - ybs insulation - osb - insulation between rafters - air gap - osb - breather membrane - counter batten - batten - tiles Guidance from lots of sources is that airflow is needed between insulation and top osb. I’m just not sure whether I also need to cut the top membrane or because there isn’t a ridge which means air can flow across, whether I can get away without cutting. thanks for all your thoughts.

Factory made in sections built around rafters; osb - air gap - insulation - osb

Was this on a solid roof ie; osb cassette?

Really interested in solutions to this as about to start cladding. I was also thinking of lead but unsure how to do this properly? Ie; junction with membrane. Also considering aluminium but I can’t find anything wide enough ie; 38mm batten + 19mm cladding =57mm out. Any advice really appreciated.

Thanks. Yeah not so easy as would need to remove the ridge tiles and ridge tree. (Doable but a bit of a faff). I’m not too worried about BC as don’t think they’ll have an issue but want to make sure that I don’t create future problems.

Thanks…. Hoping I can do that.

Thanks yes I have a vented dry ridge and airflow between tiles and breathable membrane. The question is about airflow beneath the osb as it’s a cassette roof. I have 50mm air gap that runs from eaves on one side between rafters and to eaves on the other. Not sure if I should also be cutting the membrane at the top as well but would rather not if it’s not necessary.

I’m considering an arched front door but wondering what the cladding detail should look like around this? The cladding is vertical timber (shadow gap). I’m struggling to find pictures online so wondering whether this is possible or not. Thanks

bed = need 🙄

It’s time to make the cut across the ridge of the breather membrane… cassette roof construction. However it just doesn’t quite feel right after working so hard to protect the building and keep water out. I realise that I need airflow from the eaves and above the insulation to the top of the roof but with this design there isn’t av ridge beam so air can actually flow from eaves, over insulation upwards and back down to eaves on the other side… I’m wondering if this is sufficient to avoid the bed to cut the membrane and help me sleep easy knowing that the roof is watertight…. I’m sure this is a can of worms but any advice welcome. Thank you 👍

Thanks @Eric yes that’s what I’m doing but wasn’t sure whether it also needed boxing in or something to prevent slippage downwards. They’re tight so can’t imagine them moving but overtime and with air movement … probably overthinking this and belt and braces so wondering everyone’s thoughts. Thank you for the help.

I’m wondering if it’s worth putting a baffle in?

Thanks @Ericyes doing similar but just not sure how to finish the eaves end… not sure what you mean sitting on the wall head?

Considering cutting notches out of the end of the insulation for air and then pushing right to the back of the sub fascia… what do you think ?

Thanks that sounds good but in this case the walls are timber frame cassettes so no cavity and boxed in.

I’m insulating between rafters of our timber frame and trying to work out the best way of finishing at the eaves/wall plate. Currently extending over the wall plate to the eaves box allowing for 50mm ventilation gap but wondering if I need to close in or seal the ends of the rigid insulation in any way or whether it’s ok as it is. Thank you for any advice.

Thank you. That’s helpful. Does you find it interfered with the battens at all or pushed out the cladding?

That’s interesting. Did you take that behind the battens ands back to the membrane? Do you have any pictures you’d be happy to share? Ta

Thanks @Annker I’m interested in the edpm detail. Was that edpm tape? If so which one? Also did you run that over the top of the reveal board? thanks

Looking for advice on cladding around windows and doors. We’re building a timber frame house. We’ve just had windows in. I’m ordering the cladding and hoping to begin fitting in the next few weeks. I’ve seen various ways of doing the reveals. I’m particularly interested in the head detail. Itb looks like most overhang the cladding over the reveal board so that water can shed off but I’ve also seen folks use lead and aluminium drip edges to bring water away from the head reveal. Looking for any advice and pictures. We have a couple of large windows/bifold doors so wondering if this is more of an issue here to ensure any water sheds away from the structure? Thanks

@ProDave @markc @Gone WestReally useful reading this. I’m about to order cladding materials and will be fitting in a couple of weeks. I’m using a mixture of horizontal and vertical cladding. I like the over sail suggestion at the top. That makes sense. I’m curious whether there is also a head flashing detail that needs considering. Also for the side reveals I hadn’t thought of over sail. Is there an advantage to this? I’m also wondering if there are any different considerations for horizontal cladding? thanks