junglejim

Thanks @Russell griffiths. That’s helpful. I’ve lapped the roof membrane into the breather so anything going behind will run down. I’m interested to see what you did though… do you have any photos?

Going to be starting this abutment to cladding in the next couple of weeks. I’ll be using vertical cladding so double battening (onto timber frame). Any tips or insights appreciated. many thanks

We’ve just had joiners framing out for our porch overhang. We wanted to include a glazed section to let light into the window below so they’ve left a gap and also reinforced above with timber framing. I’m looking for suggestions on how we could glaze this… I’m thinking of a couple of rafters to create 2 rectangular sections and glaze in there (slightly different from architects impression) but I’m unsure about how to go about framing and flashing a glazing unit. Also whether the framing above is necessary as we were going to batten, board and render that section but it’s now protruding and would seem to complicate the airflow too… any ideas and advice welcome as always. Thank you

Looking for some advice on how to finish this hip and match into the roof? Am I right to think dry ridge on the hip, angled cut at the top and lead flashing tucked under main roof tiles? note: the glazing is going to be changed to 2 rectangles between rafters rather than along the hip (something else I’m trying to work out!) thanks for any tips.

Thanks yes makes sense. I’m trying to figure out the surface water drainage as have soakaway in the back garden. If I drop the gutter at the front then I’ll need a drainage run to the soakaway but again seems a long way ie 25m from front of house. I’m considering aco drainage along the side if the house and wondering if it’s possible to drop the down pipe into this but again with that distance seems like it could need a lot of fall and aco could end up low. 🤔 Also Would using larger guttering negate the need for multiple down pipes?

I’m going to be adding gutters soon to our new build and trying to work out; 1. What the fall angle is. 2. How to align gutter accurately 3. what’s the maximum gutter run? The side of the house is approx 17m and I’d also like to connect to front gutter (9m). Ideally I’d like these to run to the back of the house down a single downpipe but not sure how doable this is. I’m thinking that the further down gutter I go the lower it will be on the fascia which over 26m could be significant and means that it’s too low. However I’m sure I’ve seen houses with very long gutter runs. Any advice appreciated. Thank you

I’m wondering if there’s any mileage in filling the base of the RSJ with mortar? But probably not ideal from a cold bridging perspective.

Here’s a photo of how it is currently. Will obviously need to dig out the ground as well.

Figured a drawing would be useful as still a bit unsure of the best way to finish this. Thanks for all the tips.

Slightly concerned this could be a way for moisture to ingress (around edges of the RSJ) any tips on sealing? Considering expanding foam + mortar to fill gaps.

Thanks, that’s useful. The side facing outwards is the ‘I’ shape so not a face. I’m thinking of insulating, adding noggins and then osb with dpc over but wondering if I’m better off covering in render board and extending down to overlap the slab?

The upstand around our slab is cut for RSJ to fit into at slab level. I’m wondering how best to finish the exterior around this as will be closer to ground level and below the cladding. Presumably it could somehow be sand cement rendered? Thanks

Update: Thanks for everyone’s thoughts and advice. Below is the reply from the engineer today. Feel much better having this in writing but still a little weary given the concerns raised on here. “I can confirm the 140mm long Rawlplug screw with plastic plug is the preferred fixing for timber sole plates to concrete up-stands. This type of fixing alleviates any excessive lateral forces within the up-stand unlike an expanding bolt fixing.”

I used a hammer tacker in the end… really easy and quick to use… found it invaluable.

Thanks. Haven’t spoken to SE yet but will do. The drawings specify shot fired. I think there were concerns though about that being risky as could damage the concrete with that method…. My gut feeling is in line with people’s thoughts on here that the plastic plugs are not a good enough alternative but definitely need it checked. Going to be quite a bit of work to remedy I suspect but need the house well anchored!

Thanks for the comments. No this is a concrete raft slab with timber frame on top. The external face of the upstands/slab is going to have a render finish. We are cladding above that. just out of interest what kind of fixings would you expect on this? Anchor bolts?

Yes I share that concern. I’ve been around the perimeter and checked the concrete. As far as I can tell it’s blown in 3 locations so the rest seem good. Not sure I can remedy the anchoring at all as the building is up and fixed to the sole plate. I’m not sure why they’ve used plastic plugs. Engineer drawings specify shot firing (I’m not sure what that is) I’m speculating but wondering if shot firing would have been more likely to damage the concrete? I don’t know if there are frame anchors as well… but of a can of worms here and not sure how to broach with the company 😬.

Thanks yes tempted to just crack on but obviously a critical part of the building so want to make sure it’s done right and water/weather tight. I’ve come across a couple of products. Is this the kind of thing you’re meaning? Fibromix 40: https://www.waterproofingaccessories.co.uk/product/fibre-reinforced/ Resincoat: https://www.resincoat.co.uk/en/home/454-resincoat-all-in-one-concrete-repair-mortar.html cheers

Hoping that this is repairable with some kind of mortar but worried it might be a weak spot so want to make sure it’s done right.

Thanks… that’s good to know… do you think I’d get away with one strip or need to do lots of short sections like the plastic one?… advantage of short ones is that they could be slid beneath the tile which will help hold in place but would require much more lead. The presumably would also need a side fixing to the barge board or batten… struggling to find information online about doing this.

Just when one problem is solved another surfaces… self building is definitely stressful! I’ve discovered today that the concrete upstand around the perimeter of our foundation (cast as part of foundation raft slab) has been damaged (presumably when the TF company fitted the soleplate) which has caused water ingress… luckily I haven’t insulated and screed yet. I didn’t notice earlier because we weren’t wind and watertight so assumed it was from window opening and area is also concealed under dpc overlap. I’ve messaged the TF company for help but wonderful what everyone’s take on this is in terms of responsibility and solutions? I’ve attached a few photos… the upstand is damaged inside and out where 2 fixings are so there’s 2 photos for each location one from inside ABs the other from outside. All advice very appreciated. Thank you

Thermowood cladding… good quality but slightly unsure about fixing strength as tends to be quite light and soft ish hence considering reinforcement.

Thanks… just a standard light but wasn’t sure whether it’s better to support behind as well.