nod

IUnless your in a conservation area or next a listed building NO

If you use Tek screws You need Blues Threaded to the point Don’t use anything with plastic on them Nails are no good to the underside Unless you can fire hangers into the sides Something like Trapazoids

I fix to the underside of floors regularly The spec is nearly always Tech screws Fully metal knock ins are quick and you can hang an elephant off them But twice the cost of Tech screws

Then your next call is to a SE Architects can only give an opinion Like the rest of us Get something down on paper

Normal practice would be to install a 100 mil insulated plasterboard on the slope and 400 mil above the ceiling Decent insulation which will satisfy BC and won’t break the bank

There in blocks of four Housing associations tend to go a bit mad but this takes it to another The pink spray is probably going to be expensive also

Just thought I’d share I’ve been sent drawings for a job (58 Houses) to quote for the starting around Easter The spec is quite unusual Traditional build Brick and Block Internals are first sprayed with a pink liquid for airtightness Then all block walls are gypliner then insulated Then three layers of 15 soundblock Each layer acoustic sealed around perimeter all joints tapered Third layer skimmed I’ve just had an air test on ours 2 No special measures Pretty much what we do each day on sites Just thinking as I prepare this very expensive quote Is this all necessary Ive dabbed insulated boards on the perimeter walls Which in my humble opinion would be just as good and a fraction of the cost I’m pretty sure these will be local Authority So I suppose cost isn’t an issue

Go for then As long as it does come under building regs

If your just tiling it It’s a quite straight forward job Start straight and mark one side out at a time I’d loose the mortar bedded hips in favor of dry verge

Just to add The cil can be sleeted out over the phone Within a couple of days

It wasn’t a form For both builds I contacted the Cil by phone They where quite clear Cut trees and clear the plot Remove slates but not joists No heavy machinery On our second build the SE required test holes I contacted them again and asked about taking a mini digger on There response was that I could take a full size digger on But leaving it there Or storing it onsite would constitute a commencement Im not sure if the Cil applies to you But that’s the main one Planners are more likely to tell you to stop what you are doing and that’s pretty much it Unless there’s a complaint It’s unlikely anyone will know Except All of BH 😁

Rural I think the term was It was a field used for grazing Cheapest service by a long was Especially as they had to traffic light a 60 mph road for four days 2.5 years on Still no meter Looking like next week

Check with your Cil Ours said we where ok Stripping the slates off the roof But nothing else No heavy machinery Diggers etc

A call along the way might of been a good idea But also your builder moving his shit would also been a good idea Split the cost with your builder

The dpc that is lapped out of your walls needs to be dry and clean You will have to go round with a sponge and hot water a clean it all I used woven render tape or to stick ours (Jaffa)

When you call to book your quote Tell them you intend installing a HP The young lady with months of experience will tell Oooo you definitely need three phase Three quotes All wanted to sell us a Three phase supply Just tell them no thanks

No the span will have already dictated the the thickness of your steel We hit and miss welded plates on three sides at our previous build Six years on No cracks or movement

The last two that we have done have been done with a 12 mill hit and miss welded plate on the bottom of the steel Which gives 0 deflection and has worked fine Hes probably probably added the deflection due to the lack of weight above it Which is no use to you Five mill of movement will cause the doors issues

I saw that Last time 5 years ago ) While the vat claim was straight forward My wife taking bags full of invoices to work to photocopy took for ever thanks again

That’s really helpful I thought it was three months

Getting closer to sign off Just had the air test done and garage doors Pretty much on top of the internals Still the drive and 600 m2 of paving to do My question is How long have others lived in there house before submitting a vat claim Our previous build was Moved in late December Submitted vat claim in May All went through ok We’ve been in since Late July But would like to buy the paving in before submitting But don’t want to create problems with the vat claim

As above But also note that an Architects certificate isn’t accepted by some lenders HSBC being one

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I’m guessing that there was already cut outs there

Very neat No need to insulate Plumbers don’t normally take that much care