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It will cost you about £25 m2 To replace the blocks For £25 I’d replace the stained blocks

It’s one thing that you shouldn’t scrimped on Seconds are ok for an office or shed

You will have to get a final Sap (as built ) which incorporates electrical cert gas PV etc and relies on you be honest about everything else Sap in general are absolutely pointless

1 standard CT 2 depends on LA Ours allows 3 months to renovate Used to be 6 Get your permissions through and knock it down ASAP

Carefully dab a small area with brick acid on a sponge Then wash away as soon as it starts to soften Or as Ian suggests Live with it

My wife’s just said “Don’t say a shit load “ A lot 😁

While I’m not a tank expert One will be along shortly I have installed our last two The first one being in six years now I sat ours in 3 cube of semi dry concrete Then back filled with clay and soil

Unfortunately the planners can request anything that will make your life harder Just doing the vat claim for our current build and come across a request for our building plots to be graded for crops Which we thought was unreasonable being as PP had already been granted

I pointed out that our daughter lives in a RedRow that has level access threshold With two 100 mil flag steps leading to it She laughed and said I’m friends with your daughter and live on the same estate 😁

After moving in nearly a year ago Spending is pretty much done Yesterday was sign off day So this morning I’m sorting out the Professional Certificate sign off I went online and noticed that more and more companies are offering retrospective Certs Which is probably the route we will go if we build again First time round we new we would probably sell within ten years So went for a Protec coming out at £3200 5 years ago 3 vista Each lasting ten minutes This time we’ve gone with CML Professional Cert £1500 which will do exactly the same thing We are under no illusions that neither are likely to ever pay out But you need that bit of paper should you ever sell If you have a mortgage provider I’m guessing they will insist But do those that are self funding really need one ?

Hardly any of mass produced homes have sound insulation Other than the required pipe boxes and bath- toilet wall that connects to a living area Insulating between the floor and bedroom makes a little bit of difference and deadens the sound more than silence es it The only site that I do that really try is local Authority accommodation They tend to spec a MF gypliner ceiling and sound block board below the GF ceilings which really makes a difference Weve enclosed our washer

It doesn’t really make any difference Acoustic or none acoustic It just stops the sound bouncing around Putting insulation between floors of a domestic house seems to be dying out most my jobs with Architects preferring to let the heat rise

If its the disabled access that you are worried about Weve 35 mil drop on the inside Fine to run a wheelchair off BC came round today to do the sign off and didn’t mention it

BC shouldn’t be insisting on Aciustic insulation It’s not a requirement to put it in a house Unless your joins to another property ? Strange that quotes would suggest soundblock Is there a noice issue that you haven’t mentioned Its normal to use 12.5 wallboard 30 minutes fire rated It should say on your drawing if they are looking for 60 minutes fire rating

Unfortunately If it’s in the pre app you will have to include it and keep your fingers crossed for further down the line

We’ve fixed two Timbers on the wall on both of our builds To give an extra 100 mill on the worktop

Floor first Always Unless the kitchen is already installed

Nearly all the sites and houses that we tile haven’t got a bio or ASHP in place at the time of tiling While I’m not a heating engineer the temperatures are so low that it never effects the floor coverings Weve just finished a 5 million pound house 700 m2 of floor tiles indoor swimming pool The HP is set to be commissioned in October and that’s on a traditional screed I commissioned the heating on both our builds {traditional screed ) Simply because I could The reality is that on most commercial or Grand designs The heating is rarely commissioned You are paying extra money Around a third for Flo Simply for convenience Prime tile

Let him board one side of the studs and ask him to bugger off downstairs while you fit the insulation A few staples will hold it in place till he gets the second side on

I can only go from experience I tile dozens of these floors each year without any Matt The floor matting has only become popular over the last 20 years It was once the norm to screed in the morning and tile in the afternoon

Scrape any loose material off the top Prime with SBR 12 hours before if possible No need for matting

We don’t test for moisture We get a date to start tiling The flow screed is more expensive But the drying time is the main selling point While I’ve seen a few go wrong I’ve never had tiles come up Or cracking

300-400 k

While it’s not my thing I’ve used this on plenty of other people’s jobs It’s Jus as waterproof as tiles We normally do a few sample boards for the colour Most go for concrete look But there are plenty of shades and depth of texture Be sure that you get someone that is experienced and not just learning on your job Like tiles Make sure you are going to be happy with it as it can’t be skimmed over if your not