LaChab

@JohnMo Thanks for the thoughts. No UFH (sorry!) or radiators. I'm hoping that over time the house will mostly be at the same temperature. Not planning cooling with the heat pump. I thought this KS might be ok. Says it goes down to 30c. And I can always disable the flow temperate relay! https://kitchenheaters.co.uk/product/thermix-kph-1-5-smart-wifi-heat-pump/

So that I can get the wiring installed, I'd really appreciate some guidance with sorting out the controls for my future heating system. It's a fairly well insulated and airtight new build, and the spreadsheet shows I need < 2kw. I'm planning to fit a heat pump, with 1 or 2 kick space heaters (fan coils) in the lounge / kitchen and a towel radiator in each of the bathrooms upstairs. I was thinking I could have 2 zones, one with a (portable) room stat for the kick space, and the other with smart TRVs that can switch the heat pump. I've spent ages on the Tado website, but still not sure that it could do what I want. There must be others............. Thanks for looking,

I'm using this stuf to bond wooden battens onto PIR and concrete. Seems to work really well. Possibly cheaper from elsewhere.... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08NK8CHJV?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1

@Nickfromwales I'd really like to take advantage of BUS, and I don't like the idea of using "straight" electricity to heat the hot water. A small heat pump is exactly what I'd like, but it seems impossible under BUS, so I think I'll be forced into at least 7kw. So using the UVC as a large (giant!) buffer seemed a good idea to reduce cycling. Agree completely about A2A, and we've had the pipework fitted for a multi split. Just daren't fit it until I get BUS sorted! Then in practice the HP should be almost entirely for producing hot water.

@JohnMo Thanks for all the suggestions. Hadn't thought about affecting the hot water temperature. Suppose I thought the heat pump would just be using the UVC as a large buffer, so it would always be within a few degrees. That's a very interesting suggestion about a "direct" UVC. I could have a tank with no heat pump coil and two output coils (middle and top) to provide heating and hot water. (prefer a coil to a PHE if there's a choice) Think I've got room for a 500l cylinder, so would be able to "carry over" quite a bit from the early morning charge up. Ordinary days 1kw should be enough.

The BH heatloss spreadsheet says that I should need well under 2k for space heating in our new build. We aren't having UFH, so I'm thinking about using just one or 2 kickspaces (fan coils) in the lounge / kitchen. To get over the low water content issue, I was wondering about buying a UVC with an extra output coil at the top to power the space heating. Effectively a thermal store. C2Go say no problem specifying one. Then the heat pump would simply keep the tank at the set temperature, and the space heating cirulation pump would be controlled by a room stat. Good idea? Daft? Pointless? All thoughts appreciated.

Personally, I just put DC Isolaters in the attic to terminate the cables from the panels. No MC4s needed. Then you can sort out the "on going" safely at any time. Similar to @JohnMo's approach I think. I find it hard to see "never switched" DC Isolaters as a fire risk. Less than an inverter I would have thought.

@Markuz Thanks. LOts of choices! TP are close so I'll give them a call.

@Nickfromwales Thanks, we'll give it a try.

@Markuz Thanks for the suggestions. Biggest problem with these cement boards is finding a local supplier. All seem to be mail order only, with usually ridiculous delivery charges!

@Nickfromwales That's a thought!

@Nickfromwales Thanks for the quick response. That's rather impressive looking stuff Not even too expensive. I'll give it a test!

Hi, I need to fit a panel to the outside of our house (ICF K-rend) in order to mount the solar inverter and trunking. Trouble is, I haven't a clue what to use. I need something that will take screws like ply, but be fully weatherproof. I've never used cement boarding type materials, and I've no idea whether they take screws well. Any suggestions........

You can download a pretty comprehensive guide from this page.... https://knauf.com/en-AU/knauf-gypsum/services/training/plasterboard-installation-manual

I used https://www.toolstation.com/floor-tite-tri-lock-pozi-screw/p65750

The Egger instructions seem to say either is ok...... https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjI0OOZp7iPAxXjbEEAHX5LOO4QFnoECBwQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.egger.com%2Fget_download%2Fc19090af-796c-4d84-86bf-33909a20f6bf%2FFlyer_Advanced_Structural_Flooring_System_Fitting_guide_UK_05_2024.pdf%3Fcountry%3DGB&usg=AOvVaw1t1ze_7xhNmM1ygxieNHff&opi=89978449

These don't have a clear flow, but at least they're designed to be "clearable", and hopefully they'll save the trap from getting clogged. https://www.qssupplies.co.uk/bathroom-furniture-shower-taps/90185.htm

Our ducted unit downstairs is going to need a total of 8 x 150mm ducts installed, which the posis can cope with, but upstairs we chickened out and went for individual wall mounts , as we couldn't see how to do the ducts in our (hopefully) airtight ceiling.

Sorry, bought mine > 10 years ago! Not recommending, but I think this is a good make...... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Labgear-Universal-Freesat-Satellite-Receiver-Black/dp/B09QL992DD/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2MUKK4JRF7PVD&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.4Pzm7Lpqh67uiC_vhTcSCz7T89hL3jllJurtFXQsSbNMoph_Bv3aqGXc35m0_kWN-ahuWheH0ktoIHlt8_wbqy1mUsHfWqg81VEWE-d-hM82JaksehRUexpGiNQcOvdrsfnqXQk0jA2dT-jVNXIhvKP6QAUnWSQQq47M-EorqcoZ3OlNIA6Qj7SPdw14yvCLO419OgNzCN-wIUyZPep67SApXCf8A_IKq6hujj27NJc.Wh4DbXVr-w6Qa_RAWqDNej2xtTS5A3I7UiZbK6iCFdI&dib_tag=se&keywords=octo%2Blnb&qid=1754156823&sprefix=octo%2Blnb%2Caps%2C162&sr=8-2&th=1 or https://www.amazon.co.uk/Humax-LNB-182-GOLD-0-1-dB-Ports-Gold/dp/B00BAWQS2G/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2MUKK4JRF7PVD&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.4Pzm7Lpqh67uiC_vhTcSCz7T89hL3jllJurtFXQsSbNMoph_Bv3aqGXc35m0_kWN-ahuWheH0ktoIHlt8_wbqy1mUsHfWqg81VEWE-d-hM82JaksehRUexpGiNQcOvdrsfnqXQk0jA2dT-jVNXIhvKP6QAUnWSQQq47M-EorqcoZ3OlNIA6Qj7SPdw14yvCLO419OgNzCN-wIUyZPep67SApXCf8A_IKq6hujj27NJc.Wh4DbXVr-w6Qa_RAWqDNej2xtTS5A3I7UiZbK6iCFdI&dib_tag=se&keywords=octo+lnb&qid=1754156823&sprefix=octo+lnb%2Caps%2C162&sr=8-4

Not only cheap and easy, but works perfectly! And you can fast forward recordings to remove adverts. Why not just get a cheap (or otherwise) Echo to deal with radio. Unlike TV, hugely better streamed.

I've probably misunderstood what you're looking for, but wouldn't a straightforward 8 port LNB do all you want. Or possibly a Hybrid 6 if you've got equipment that can use it.

Thanks @Nickfromwales. we're self building just for ourselves, so I assume we're " visitable". Google seems to show that "adaptable" is optional....

Could somebody please reassure me that there's no minimum door width on the first floor for a new build. Part M Section 7 seems quite clear that minimum door widths only apply to the entrance storey, but Googling only seems to mention 750/775 clear opening, with no mention, even in the "AI" bits, that this is only for downstairs. Is it specified somewhere else? I don't want to get it wrong! Thanks for reading.

@Nickfromwales Thanks, advice appreciated. @John Carroll Thanks for the suggestion. Those combined things do look interesting, and looking at Screwfix etc very widely used I think. Unfortunately no sink nearby, and also I'm going to fit connections for 3 appliances.

Thanks @Nickfromwales Quite agree about accessibility, that's partly why I'm dubious about using the void. Would like to avoid cluttering up the cupboard / drawer unit if possible. What do you think about using one of those nozzles you referred to in that topic with a HepVo. Would that seem better than the Amazon thing? That would go under the kickspace.....