LaChab

@Redbeard They are. And the limited width of the internal frame is why I don't think taping to it is the way to go. And worsened by the installer virtually insisting on a 10mm gap around the frame. I'm probably just being obsessive, but relying on foam for an airtight seal just doesn't seem right. I'll ask more detailed questions about fitting of some other Internorm dealers.

@Redbeard Just noticed that in the left hand picture it shows the Alu cladding.

@Redbeard You had me worried there! And I've seen them! Like you, I can't see it specified, but this description talks about the "hidden sash" from the outside.

@Redbeard Thanks for looking! I'm quite likely misinterpreting the diagram, but as far as I can see there's only about 15mm of frame on the inside, before the opening bit (25mm less about 10mm) And they're such nice looking windows!

@MikeSharp01 Exactly what they're saying to us! I can't really see how it can be damaged. Bet it's fitted ok in Austria! With a guarantee!

@Redbeard Sorry if I'm misunderstanding, but with a 10mm gap and 15mm of PB, there would only be <5mm for the tape. The factory fitted tape seems much the best, but what a ridiculous price!

@Redbeard I was intending to just line the reveal with plasterboard, so with a 10mm gap round the windows AFIC see that doesn't really give room to stick tape. Also we're intending to use KF520s, which have got a rather tight tolerance inside.

@Post and beam I'd like to! But the tape needs attaching to the sides of the windows before they're fitted. Which is what the £1050 is for apparently. So we'd have to fit the windows ourselves, and they're very heavy! @Russell griffiths That sounds interesting. I'll have a browse. Did you fit your own windows?

@JohnMo Thermal conductivity for the 330 is 36 mW/m.K. No idea how that compares! Illbruck say it's airtight (< 0.1 m³/(h.m) at 1750 Pa), but presumably it relies upon perfect installation. I've spect ages browsing "windows" on here, and I'd got the impression that an airtightness tape was very popular. There's certainly a good selection for sale.

Hi, I'd really welcome peoples views on the need for airtight tape when having windows fitted. I'm going through an Internorm quote for a new build, and I've been told that installation is with Illbruck FM330, but no airtight tape. I queried this and was told that for £600 extra they would fit ProClima Tescon Profil. I queried this as well, as it doesn't look like the correct tape to me, as it will show on the inside of the window. So latest, I can pay an extra £1050 and have factory fitted tape, just like on my existing 15 year old windows. But despite the cost, they won't guarantee it, as apparently it's easy to damage. It seems a bit mad to me to fit 0.7 glazing with only foam, but is that normal now? All help much appreciated.

Thanks all. Rasping it is then!

Hi, I'm planning to use EWIPro 225, 333 and 076 on our eps blocks. I just wondered whether it's necessary to rasp and or wash the blocks first, and whether we should use 310 primer first under the 225. The blocks are about 6 months old, so not dusty yet. Thanks for reading.

@frankmcs65, @Dillsue Thanks for the encouragement, I'll get on and order them. When the electric supply eventually gets restored!

@Mattg4321 THanks, I'm tempted to give it a go!

@Susie That looks very interesting! Thanks, I'll have a (free!) go. PS been enjoying your blog, and the Part O spreadsheet satisfied the BCO.

@MikeGrahamT21Thanks for the thoughts.

Good Morning, I've had approval for 18 panels. Purely for convenience, I bought 9 panels last week. https://www.cityplumbing.co.uk/p/longi-solar-hi-mo-6-430wp-full-black-pv-module-lr5-54htb-430m/p/836339 Now they've been delivered I went to order the other 9, only to find that CP no longer have any stock! The only ones available are these, which have slightly different specs, but look the same. https://www.cityplumbing.co.uk/p/longi-solar-435wp-full-black-pv-module-lr5-54htb-435m/p/104462 As they'll be on 2 strings, am I ok to use two different panels? Thanks for reading,

Sorry, should have made it clearer that it's an ICF build, so the two layers of eps are necessary. Tending towards a low profile channel instead of a slot drain, as it will involve removing less eps from the outer leaf. I wanted the drain right next to the threshold, so I can't see how else to fit it. Perhaps I could put a layer of Compacfoam under it. I understand the benefits of UFH, but not a fan I'm afraid, hence the floating floor etc. Take your point about the dpc. I'll look at that again. I forgot to annotate that the concrete core to the blocks will be waterproofed concrete.

As we haven't yet decided on the final floor material inside, I've left a (bit arbitary) 18mm ready for it. Then when it's fitted we'll have a fairly level threshold.

It's a new build. With the insulation over the slab it seems the best method. We did the same in our current house that we built about 15 years ago and it's been fine. At the time seemed too simple to be correct!

Good Morning, I've mulled over lots of other threshold details on here, and produced this hybrid. I'd really appreciate any thoughts............. I was wondering about using a threshold drain instead of the slot drain. https://www.aco.co.uk/products/thresholddrain https://www.aco.co.uk/products/hexdrain-brickslot We haven't chosen the indoor floor covering yet, so the temporary slope inside is just a thought in case the BCO insists. I've allowed 18mm for engineered wood. Are all window / door thresholds roughly the same width? (we haven't chosen windows yet) Thanks for reading. Threshold detail.pdf

ICF outer walls, so they're sorted, but I realise a good idea for these. But even the Marmox only give a U of 0.5, so how much will I save for quite a lot of expense?

Hi, I'd welcome thoughts on how to start my internal load bearing walls. I'm sure it must have been covered before, but I can't find anything that exactly covers it......... My ground floor internal walls are going to be built up from the ground bearing slab. There's going to be 300mm of insulation on top of the slab, so the floating floor will finish up 300mm up the wall. So the cheapest answer seems to be just to use lightweight blocks, which I think will give an R value of about 0.6 at 300mm high. Or I could add a row of Marmox Thermoblock, which would give R of 2. But cost another £600. And if I did that, perhaps I might as well use concrete blocks, which I'd prefer. Does anyone know how to calculate what the potential heat loss is from a 9.0m 100mm wall resting on a ground slab? I just can't decide if the extra cost is worth it.......... Thanks for reading.

Morning, That sounds really interesting. @Dave Jones Could you post a link to the fancoils you fitted....... And where (floor, ceiling..) did you fit them?

@Gone West Thanks for looking out the photo, that's super helpful. I hadn't thought about using a 50mm AAV. That makes it much easier. Those "dual" pan connectors are rather brilliant. So much to find out about!