Tony C

I have a 2-bedroom detached house with a ground floor and a one-room basement. Additionally, there is a detached one-room annex, making the total volume around 150m³, including the detached studio. I plan to install an LG Therma V 7kW ASHP with a 250L V-Cyl Pre-Plumbed HP and a 50L Buffer. Two underfloor heating companies (Wunda and Underfloor Heating Direct) have recommended that I need separate manifolds for each area, resulting in a total of three manifolds: One for the main ground floor (110m2) One for the one-room basement (20m2) One for the detached one-room annex (20m2 served via insulated pipe underground) However, I've read in various posts that installing a manifold on the upper floor and using it to serve the room below can work well. This approach suggests that I could potentially serve the one-room basement from the ground floor manifold, simplifying the installation. Has anyone tried a similar setup successfully? Any advice or insights would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks George, Unfortunately there is no access on outside. I also have a basement where I am planning using Delta system as you suggest. But I am looking for a internal solution for this a little below ground slab.

Hello fellow self-builders, I am currently in the process of waterproofing a below-ground concrete slab and upstand (Its below ground about 600mm) , with the added requirement of fixing a timber frame hold strap on the slab. I've reached out to RIW, and they recommended their Toughseal, a 2-pack resin system liquid DPM. However, the cost is a bit steep at £27/m2. The construction of the slab and upstand is in good standard, and there is currently no visible water ingress. There's a slight dampness in some areas, but nothing alarming. I'm curious if any of you have dealt with a similar construction and have successfully used an alternative, more cost-effective product for waterproofing. Thank you in advance for your time and assistance!

I am installing 3 phase UK power, but they could not supply 50/54 hockey stick. I ordered from CIRRUS trading. 1 x 54mm general purpose duct hockey stick @ £9.40 , 1 x carriage @ £15.00

Hi, how exciting! Will you be having roof and wall clad with corrugated material?

https://www.labc.co.uk/business/labc-assured/ew534b-plumis-automist-smartscan-hydra This is the current certificate with LABC. Other watch out for installing Automist is that some Approved Inspectors would not accept Automist in certain circumstances. In my case I ended up moving the Building control from Approved Inspectors to LABC half way groundwork stage. (Pain!!) I guess Approved Inspectors are nervous anything to with fire regulation after Grenfell.

Good luck with your journey! I guess the most difficult part is actually finding the plot in London. I have managed to purchase a collection of disused garages site I spotted on google map. It did take about a year to convince the owner to sell it to us through.

I think that's about right. Mine was £8k - in London, 4 bay parking suspensions - 3 meters from boundary - 2 meter deep invert on the road - no road closure, but some traffic management as the connection was in the middle of the road. - the fee was excluding the Section 50 notice to Highways fee (£450) and Section 106 to Thames Water (£500)

I also ordered pro clima Intello plus (VCL) and all the tapes from Germany, thinking it is better to have it before the Brexit. https://www.baunativ.de/product_info.php?products_id=66 Free delivery if you order more than 100 Euro.

I asked SE and architect and now I am omitting this 12mm plywood. Architect thought it might be useful for securing the plumbing pipes etc !?

I have not ordered it yet... but I looked the system in the showroom, the design is really great with minimalist look. It could be either painted or anodized aluminum. I am going for plain aluminum anodized finish which looks like raw aluminum. Cortizo also provides the invisible ventilation slot. I will be commissioning the glazing company who can deliver both cortizo and rooflights. Cortizo sliding doors are coming around £640/m2.

I will be getting a polished concrete floor by reputable company. The quotation was £120/m2 including the reinforcement mesh. 100mm thick concrete. https://theconcreteflooring.com/

Hi, I have gone through the same situation. My house is more than 45m from the street access, not the whole house but a living room and a bedroom are out of reach. This system called Automist was chosen - the wall mounted censor splay the Mist towards fire - using much less water and causing less damage to the house/furniture etc. https://plumis.co.uk/ Depends on the area of coverage, this system could be same price as the normal sprinkler. If you are installing to whole house then it might work out more extensive. First of all, you will need to engage the Building control who is familiar with fire engineering. They will determine which area needs sprinkler fitted, either partially or whole house. If you like the Mist system above, it is worth speaking with them who they recommend.

Thanks for the insider information! How is the effect on the utility bills? I saw some article saying that it is not economic.

Thanks, let me know the progress. I am wondering if you could plumb this furthest point first then try how long it takes to get the hot water? then install the secondary circulation pipe if you desire...

Hi ProDave, Thank you for the concern. I understand that this is not conventional build-up. Its due to rather special design our achitect has worked on the timber frame. no5. area in below 3D image has the build-up as I posted earlier. no4 (high area) is interesting open 70mm studs area. To align both area, the architect made service void 70mm. I guess the Timber Frame could have been 170mm then you don't need to insulate this 70mm service void. But the loss of 50mm of wall everywhere is not desired as I am building in London, the land size is limited! Hope this make sense. I will place VCL on interior side of number 15 (plywood 12mm).

Hi Russell, What was the solution you have ended up with ? I have similar situation with one bathroom long away - 25m, and will be using System boiler+Cylinder. Did you go for secondary return system?

I I am not entirely sure. I assume the benefit will be having less cold bridging, enabling the studs to be offset each other.

Thank you A_L for the useful info! Between 120mm Structural studs would have tightly fitted celotex as it only has Rain water pipes in this void. Between 70mm Service studs, there would be a little less celotex avoiding the area of mains cable, gas, water pipes etc. This gap area to be covered with sheep wool. If I were to place VCL just after the 120mm Studs (the middle option), it will have less penetration. So this could be better option then?

Thanks BMcN! What do you mean by "checked out" ? Do you mean the insulation is suitable? In this case VCL needs to be sealed with tapes the around the opening for the electric sockets and switches.

Hi, I have timber frame build up as : (exterior) 12.5mm sheathing 120mm C24 frame with 120mm celotex 12mm ply 70mm C24 for service with 60mm celotex VCL 12mm ply exposed interior (interior) Is this VCL location correct specified by architect? When I see the construction picture on the website, it looks like it goes just after the main timber frame, then add service studs on the VCL layer.

Its easy to get Cadent to quote for you. In my case 1m from the street connection was £520 for your reference.

Thank you for the info, markc, dnb. What did you use to fix the frame onto the sole plates? 1st fix nails ?

Hi, I gone for the option that carpenters construct Timber frame on site. What fixing should they be using for - Fixing sole plate to concrete upstand (Some people say Thunderbolts is good, the other say no? ) - Fixing timber frames on to sole plate I am using 50x125 C24 for all the framing. Thank you!

Hope it is all going well, it is a big project! We are project managing a house in East London, small basement, timber frame build. All the best